Canada - Winter Ice & Wolves

[ChrisW]

After finding those wonderful methane bubbles frozen in Upper Kananaskis Lake last week I thought I'd return there and take the wide angle lens to get some cool shots of the bubbles and surrounding mountains together. It was a much clearer day this time with beautiful blue skies and a cool -5 temperature showing as I arrived at the isthmus car park once again.

It was immediately apparent that I wasn't going to be seeing the bubbles today, it had snowed about a foot and covered the ice once more, I did think about that but thought the wind would keep the ice clear.....unfortunately it didn't.

I decided to wander the shoreline and see what I could see.



There was a little ice showing here but being in the shade it lacked that wonderful colour and sparkle I was hoping for, though it was still great to be out at such a stunning location with only one other vehicle in the car park.


The lake levels had fallen considerably since last week and caused the ice along the edges to recede and break up, I was hoping to get down onto the lake but decided to stick to the shore for a little while longer.


a little further on I find a fantastic slice of ice right on the edge of the lake that has lifted almost two feet, with the sun behind it the sparkle was there, I couldn't quite get the angle for the colour but the clarity is sublime.


Further along the shore where the sun has yet to burn the heavy hoar frost from the tree branches along the shaded forest, the temperature in the sun is a 'top coat warmer' as the saying goes


I scurry along a little further to grab a shot of the hoar frost before turning my attention toward the lake access, I can see a couple of ice fishermen wandering back on the lake and drop down to join them for a chat


I wander out onto the ice and share a good 10 minute chat with the father and son who had been ice fishing. After a haul of 9 trout (6 of which were over 8lbs) they were very happy. They shared some of their photos and video and a few tips before heading off to the car park leaving me as the sole human occupant of the entire area.


On the rear of the small island I see some hanging ice and go over to grab a few shots, you can see how far the water level has dropped so far and the beautiful blue ice clinging to the rock face.


I turn my attention to the far side of the lake and decide to hike across it just because I can. Though this may seem like madness to UK residents, the ice here is well over 18 inch think so as long as I don't step in a fishing hole it's fine.


It is initially still a little disconcerting when your foot breaks through the snow cover and drops down to the ice with a crunch, but you get used to that pretty quickly


The lake seems endless as I plod on and on, it's only a couple of miles or so but seems like more. Eventually I reach the shallows at the far side where the ice has been broken away in several pieces and where people have broken up the pieces leaving 'ice jewels' scattered around the surface.


It's great fun exploring the different breaks and good exercise maneuvering myself around to find the best position to illuminate the ice, though laying on the surface is a little chilly after a while.


occasionally I can't get the right position because my own shadow gets in the way, but still the ice demands a photo, I'm sure it would taste of mint if I lick it.....


higher up on an island section the ice has been stranded for a few weeks and is softened by the warm winds and sunshine, the snow on the surface has a layer of ice crystals on top of it that make it coarse and incredibly cold to the touch, in the shadows I can see ice crystals falling and fluttering around.


Then it happens, as I crouch to capture another sculpture I hear a series of beautiful long howls in varying tones. One of the three known wolf packs that live in Kananaskis has found something to sing about at the south end of the upper lake (close to where I hiked last week) the song reverberates around the steep sided mountains and echos back to the wolves.


When all the howling has subsided I can't resist having a go myself as wolves are known to respond on occasion, so I give my very best wolf impression and listen intently as it bounces around the mountains, it is not the melodic wonder of the local pack but it's enough and they strike up again, we take turns to howl at each other for a short while and it is unbelievable , I feel a connection with the natural world around me and and I sit there enjoying the moment as the sun begins to dip.


Suddenly the temperature drops dramatically as the shadows cover the southern end of the lake and the difference is very quickly noticeable, I decide to get going and see if I can get back into the sun. It is a shame to stop my singing competition with the wolves (which I was losing badly) but it did occur to me that they might take umbrage and decide to hunt me down.


Setting off back across the lake I get a stride on to try and catch up with the sun, my face is freezing and I actually have to put my gloved hands over it to stop it from stinging, maybe that serves me right for wandering off unprepared.


I'm almost back at the north shore before I manage to get some heat from the sun again and I stand to face it for a while just soaking up the warmth on my icey cheeks.


I step off the ice at the car park as the shadows cover the entire area again, I've not heard anything from the wolf pack since I started back so I try one more good long howl..................nothing, I guess they moved on


Back at the truck the temperature reading is -19, no wonder it was chilly on the face. My hike today might well have been a bit of an unplanned wander but it was still incredibly enjoyable and howling at/with the wolf pack is something I will always remember.

[StevenF]

Nice pictures, also liked the GPS track on the lake, definitely not a summer walk

[Steve B]

Great pictures as always Chris. Thanks for sharing.
Love the Wolf conversation. What with that and the Bears the midges don't seem so bad somehow.

[mikuro]

Oh lovely pics again Chris! Such beautiful clear skies. Loving the howling to the wolves.

[mrssanta]

OH wow, that was amazing. the green of the ice with the sun shining into it is beautiful.

[BlackPanther]

Could you send us some of that blue sky, please?

I once walked on Loch Coire Mhic Fhearchair below Beinn Eighe when it was frozen, but never on a lake that big... The way the sunlight reflects of broken layers of ice - that's pure magic.

[ChrisW]

Nice pictures, also liked the GPS track on the lake, definitely not a summer walk

Cheers Steven, I actually walked over Lake Louise last winter just to make a gps track over it

Great pictures as always Chris. Thanks for sharing.
Love the Wolf conversation. What with that and the Bears the midges don't seem so bad somehow.

Thanks Steve, though I reckon some of those Scottish midges bite worse than bears

Oh lovely pics again Chris! Such beautiful clear skies. Loving the howling to the wolves.

Thanks Mikuro, howling with the wolves was a fantastic thing to experience

OH wow, that was amazing. the green of the ice with the sun shining into it is beautiful.

Cheers Mrs S, winter here is absolutely stunning, we really love it though you do need some good quality cold weather gear which is a bit pricey

Could you send us some of that blue sky, please?
I once walked on Loch Coire Mhic Fhearchair below Beinn Eighe when it was frozen, but never on a lake that big... The way the sunlight reflects of broken layers of ice - that's pure magic.

Those wonderful blue skies and sunny days are the joy of winter here BP, 6 months with no rain virtually guaranteed so its snow or big blue skies....its awesome

[gammy leg walker]

That GPS track is something else not sure I would venture over the lake even if I did know it was 18 inches thick.

Are you sure it was wolves you heard and not Duran Duran singing the track Hungry like the Wolves..........would sound about the same I guess.

[ChrisW]

Are you sure it was wolves you heard and not Duran Duran singing the track Hungry like the Wolves..........would sound about the same I guess.

Damn that takes me back gammy....22 damn years

[soapy27]

What an amazing set of photos again Chris .One day I will come to Canada .Its one of the most beautiful countries in the world and your photos always do it justice .

[ChrisW]

What an amazing set of photos again Chris .One day I will come to Canada .Its one of the most beautiful countries in the world and your photos always do it justice .

Cheers Soapy, if you get the chance to see the Canadian Rockies grab it with both hands....they are incredible

[soapy27]

Yeah its one of my life long dreams to see them . Where would you recommend Chris ?

[ChrisW]

Yeah its one of my life long dreams to see them . Where would you recommend Chris ?

To get the very best of the area I would recommend a circuit mate, fly into Calgary pick up a rental car, stay overnight in Calgary (as most flights from the UK get here around 8pm)

Day 1, drive to Kananaskis and make one of the dozens of fantastic rarely trodden hikes to any number of wonderful locations, theres something to suit all abilities too. After the hike eat dinner in the little town of Canmore and then drive to Banff (less than 1 hour) hotel for the evening.

Day 2, make one of the incredible hikes close to Banff (I would say include Lake Minnewanka area) and do the gondola to the top of Sulphur Mountain (for an easy day do the gondola and hike back down After the hike eat in Banff and explore the small town centre then drive (less than 1 hour) to Lake Louise and stay in the Chateau Lake Louise (1 night and worth it)

Day 3 rise to incredible scenery of Lake Louise and do the Plain of 6 Glaciers hike, a nice gentle ascent but good distance hike to a stunning viewpoint, after the hike have a beer in the hotel bar but save a few bob by driving up the Icefields Parkway (about an hour) to saskatchewan crossing resort where theres a decent cafe open late and cabins. Stay the night at saskatchewan Crossing Resort (bit rough but serviceable)

Day 4 rise to wonderful view from saskatchewan crossing resort and eat breakfast in their cafe, then head north on the Icefields Parkway to any one of hundreds of incredible hikes to glacial overlooks and some of the most incredible scenery you will ever see, after your hike keep heading north to the icefields centre and stay the night there (good rooms/food and bar)

Day 5 in the morning look out of your room at the Athabasca Glacier, after breakfast you can do the short hike to it, or catch the glacier tour bus that drives out onto the middle of it after exploring the glacier head north and pick yourself a hike from any number of stunners, after the hike keep going north (less than 1 hour) to Jasper, stay the night in Jasper, lots of bars, cafes etc

Day 6 Wake up see a bear....guaranteed, Jasper is crawling with bears take in any one of dozens of wonderful hikes including a ridgetop wander off a gondola with the most stunning views Stay in Jasper again just for chioce of food/bars

Day 7 Up and at 'em heading west along the Yellowhead Highway, less than an hour, to Mt Robson Provincial Park (The Highest and most prominent mountain in the Rockies) Have yourself a wander on one of the selected hikes in the park (nice cafe for lunch post hike) back in the car and drive a long stretch of wonderful highway 4 hours south to Kamloops, stay the night.

Day 8 Up and away, drive 3 hours in truly breathtaking scenery to Whistler BC, (Ski Resort, mountain bike spot etc) hike from a choice of hundreds, after hike eat in Whistler (some really good pubs here) Back in the car and 1 hour drive along the spectacular 'Sea to Sky Highway at sunset into Vancouver for the evening.

Day 9 take a break and explore vancouver, a beautiful level walk (or bike with rentals nearby) around the route that skirts Stanley Park with lovely views all the way. In the afternoon go to Capilano Suspension Bridge Park, eat in Vancouver (just for the choice) then head east to Hope BC (about an hour and half) stay the night in Hope at the Park Motel (cleanest motel on the planet earth and really cheap) in the morning get breakfast in Hope and then do Hope Mountain hike (short but beautiful) then the Othello Tunnels flat 5k hike along a spectacular canyon. Back in the car and knock a couple of hours off tomorrows journey by driving on the Coquihalla Highway back into Kamloops, eat and stay the night.

Day 10, after breakfast drive 3 hours east to Glacier National Park and have yourself a look around, good choice of trails for all abilities, after the hike head 1 hour east to the town of Golden, eat drink and be merry for the evening.

Day 11, rise and eat breakfast in Golden, then head east for less than 1 hour to Yoho National Park, make sure you visit Emerald Lake, theres a short level 6km hike around it and and incredible restaurant on the shore when you've done the hike. Canoe rental too so you can splash around in the lake for a bit. Back in the car and 15 minute drive to Lake Louise again (or 45 to Banff) eat and stay the night in one of these.

Day 12, See more of the town of Banff have a nice hike, drive 20 mins to Canmore for lunch, then drive the Smith Dorrien Trail 35 km through stunning mountains and lakes to Mt Engadine Lodge, stay the night.

Day 13, select your final hike from any one of dozens of real stunners in the Kananaskis area, I would say tent ridge then visit Kananaskis Lakes just to wow at them before returning to Calgary (1.5 hours)

Day 14.......do we really have to go home


A couple of things I would add, the driving is very easy with little traffic and a sedate pace, you can miss out a few and have more time in Vancouver or Jasper or Banff or you could base yourself in Banff and see Kananaskis, Yoho, Lake Louise, Canmore with little travel....But this circuit would be my way to spend 2 weeks in the Rockies even if you forgive yourself the hikes on some days the trip would still be awesome.

All of these places are on my website but I can't link to it now because of the site rules, if you click the little house icon under my avatar it will take you there and you can see pics of all of this

If you ever do it, give me a shout for better details and suggestions

[Johnny Corbett]

Thats another cracker Chris, the scenery is amazing

[ChrisW]

Thats another cracker Chris, the scenery is amazing

Cheers Johnny, it's a real favourite place for both me and mrs w, one we return to again and again