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Poland - Babia Gora

Poland - Babia Gora


Postby xslawekx » Wed Mar 28, 2012 5:27 pm

Date walked: 17/03/2012

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DISCLAIMER: The following story was originally designed as an e-mail to my friend, hence a certain narration style...



I had been so looking forward to going away from the city and doing some walking in Poland. As I'd told you before my departure for Poland I had spoken to a very good friend of mine about what possibilities there are. It was all very spontaneous and after we'd considered options available to us we settled to go and explore the Babiogorski National Park - one of 23 national parks in Poland - of which existence at that point I had not been aware!
Me and my friend, Gregory, had first met in secondary school where we attended the same class for four years. We hit it off right from the beginning and our friendship have been developing ever since, although since my coming to Scotland, we didn't manage to stay as often in touch as we both would have liked.
Greg has always had that straightforwardness of being, of carrying himself that I've always liked in him best. He's honest, always cheerful, never pretentious. We tend to have similar tastes and opinions. He's always enjoyed traveling and exploring. Now as it turns out we have both developed the same passion - passion for mountains.
I often spoke to Sinam about how great it would be to be able to take Greg with me on one of my Scottish walk-abouts. And without really knowing it for sure I idealized him as an ultimately perfect buddy who'd be always up for an adventure and who'd understand and be able to grasp all the aspects, feelings and emotions I always live through when out in the hills..
It turned out that my idea of him being like this fits perfectly into real life person.

Greg.JPG
Greg


We'd hoped to be able to set off at around 4-5 pm on Friday afternoon, the sooner the better really, as we would only have a day and a half to spend in the area. Our arrangements were so spontaneous that it was always going to be difficult to realize the plan in 100%. And so there came first setback - Greg hadn't managed to arrange a baby sitter for his two kids and had to look after them to around 11 pm on Friday night. I'd really hoped for an early start on Saturday morning,but could do nothing about it. As it later turned out it wasn't all that bad because there was a film on TV that night I hadn't seen before and which I really liked. It was a Brazilian production called "Elite" telling a story of a special police unit from Rio de Janeiro and their struggle to fight the crime in the city's poorest districts.
Greg called in to pick me up shortly after midnight and we set off. He'd only managed 40-minute-long nap during the day and I was worried about him getting us safely to the place as we were in for a 4-5-hour-long drive through the night. In the end we ended up talking all way,making up for all the time we hadn't seen each other and got to the place at 4 am. We had to wake up the owner of the guest house and she let us in. We went straight to sleep,without even unpacking, alarm clocks set for 9.30 later that morning.

I woke up around 8 am, and first thing that caught my eye was a clear blue sky outside the window. In no time at all I was up and running off to the shops frantically trying to buy a relevant map. Back in my home city I had been trying to get a copy on Friday morning,but none of the mountain tourism orientated shops would have one. Sinam's mum recommended to me two specialized book stores but one was closed and they didn't have what I needed in the other one. And so I found myself walking down the road in Czatoza (a little village where we stayed) in search of the precious piece of printed paper. Half a kilometer from the guest house I found myself leaving behind a little hill with ski tows and the views unfolded before my eyes and I caught the first sight of the mountain we were going to climb. It's north face, sun lit, capped with pure, unbroken sheet of deep snow deflecting the pale morning sun rays, spruces and fir trees climbing the formidable and near vertical north face, gripping tight with the roots deep below the snow. Awestruck, I cried out loud in appreciation and excitement. Every cell in my body bursting with anticipation of adventure to come....
For us the north face was not an option because of few reasons. One of them being that the only route up from that direction remains closed for most of the year and becomes available only in summer. It is sort of via ferrata type of route with chains and metal steps embedded into the rock for easier ascent. The climb is steep but the scramble relatively short-lived.
So there I was mesmerized under the spell of the mountain. I half run to the shops. Got my map (yes!!! and for 70p only!) and some food, too. Back again to the house double quick it was still too early to wake up Greg. In the common kitchen I met a family of four breaking their fast on scrambled eggs and toasts. I never meant to interrupt them but somehow we got chatting and I mentioned that I presently live in Scotland. It turned out that their eldest child, a boy of six, had been fascinated by all kinds of monsters and mythical creatures so I got questioned thoroughly about Nessie :-) This had taken some time and I finally decided I cannot wait any longer and went upstairs to wake up Greg. It was still half hour or so short of our previously agreed wake up time, so I made double sure to make enough noise entering the bedroom to wake him up from the slumber. It worked.
We went downstairs and had breakfast. I was telling Greg about what I had already seen earlier this morning and I saw his face brighten up slowly at first where the rest of sleep was being replaced by excitement. For the final time we consulted our route over hot tea sweetened generously with honey.

We reached the car park, our starting point, half an hour later, taking the very last spot available. We'd hoped for a less busy day, but one must be mad to have missed out on a day of such perfect weather for mountaineering.
We eagerly set off passing by a group of fellow walkers waiting for their friends to join them at the entrance to the park. Normally, in the summer, a little gift shop there is open where the admission fee is charged. Now,out of season, it was closed.
We soon got the foretaste of the underfoot conditions as we had accidentally walked off the path and kept sinking into knee deep snow. Luckily, we soon discovered that it was so much better to follow the well-trodden line parallel to ours, where there must have been a firm path under the snow. The going now became much easier and we were able to focus on the forest that surrounded us. I had read that there are still bears, wolves and even lynx living there, but was very disappointed by absolute lack of any wildlife. Even birds seemed to had hidden away from our eyes. The forest is ancient. A part of primeval woods that once covered much of the land. It even bears a name that is no longer in use and one can only find it in old books that tell legends of first settlers and their pagan gods. There is something magical about places like this, that immensely stirs my imagination and I always feel like I'm moving through an enchanted, fairy-tale realm. I usually get the sort of feeling when out walking in the remotest Scottish hills, where I can almost see the powers of nature that have created and shape the landscape. The forest has always been a special place to me, though. There the magic seems to be even more livid and tangible.
Once on the path, we made a quick progress and soon reached the first 'checkpoint' - an exposed viewpoint offering great sights back to where our village was and beyond over lower, rolling hills. Strangely, only few kilometers away from us there was no snow at all, even on the higher ground.

Sokolica - view point at 1367m.JPG
Sokolica view point at 1367m


Warrior III at Sokolnica.JPG
Warrior III at Sokolica


We'd moved on passing by some slower walkers as well as by those already coming down and before long we left the forest behind and indescribably fabulous views unfolded before our eyes. There was only the slightest haze in the air but we were able to see for great distances in every possible direction. Awestruck and amazed we walked on, uphill, catching now the sight of the summit of Babia Gora - our destination.

Waypoint Kepa at 1521m.JPG
waypoint Kepa, 1521m


So much was happening - people skiing off piste down the mountain, walkers going up and down the hill from almost every direction - so much traffic.. But all this didn't faze us as our senses were focused on perception of other things - the snow in the purest shade of white, some bizarrely shaped by wind ice and snow sculptures already melting in hot sun; slight breeze stirring the air did not have the usual icy touch about it; and the views - the views were fabulous beyond description with the remote High Tatra range catching the eye in particular.

'Beza' the hitchhiker.JPG
"Beza" the hitchhiker


Ice sculpture.JPG
ice formation


all senses involved.JPG
multi-sensory experiences :-)


We took care to take in all of this so would treasure our experience forever.

High Tatra range.JPG
High Tatras range


The summit is at 1725m and quite broad with a number of wind shelters, a border post (Polish-Slovakian border runs over the top and along the shoulders of the mountain from east to west) and a cairn with plaque commemorating a visit of the late Polish pope John Paul II who had been very fond of walking and climbing.

at the summit of Babia Gora, 1725m.JPG
at the summit of Babia Gora, 1725m


Greg admiring the views.JPG
Greg admiring the views


After taking some photographs and having lunch we reluctantly headed downhill taking on our outward route. The wind picked up, but the sky remained bright blue. The sun already wandering west ever so lower.
Just before reaching the aforementioned viewpoint we'd decided to follow a different route back to the car park. Our map indicated that this shouldn't have been a problem as we were suppose to only lose some hight, leave the mountain's shoulder and contour it lower down. In theory, that is. We didn't anticipate any difficulties so cheerfully followed the new-to-us route. It turned out to be quite steep and definitely less trodden than the main path. No worries at this point, though, we were appreciating our loneliness on this stretch of the route and joking that we wouldn't like to take on it in ascent. We'd also found time to play about and I was showing Greg self arrest with ice axe technique and tried to climb a broken tree trunk, too, collapsing waist deep in to the snow.
It was good to be a boy again. A boy! Without anything to worry about - all troubles left behind. No work, no responsibilities, no relationship worries. All relationships forgotten really except for our friendship, bonds of which growing even stronger in this wild place.

scrambling at Sokolica.JPG
scrambling at Sokolica


The wake up call came few hundred meters lower down when we realized we'd gone too far down, way too far actually. Our path should have joined another one that should have taken us back to the car. In theory, that is. One more glance at the map and up we went again retracing our steps. Minds focused on finding signs of the missed path - a fruitless effort. Forced to retrace our steps we struggled uphill. We struggled for good grip underfoot (no crampons), we struggled for a breath, too. First signs of fatigue noticeable. Enthusiasm never left us, though, and we made it back to the main track and from there smoothly we glided back to the car park.

Back at home, during well deserved supper we were reminiscing about the day behind. Boots, socks and gaiters spread over the heaters we headed to our bedrooms and on to sleep searching for the realm of the dying sun where nightfall is always imminent..
Next morning, as bright and encouraging as the one before, we hastily breakfasted on some rolls and chocolate discussing the day's route. We would only have until about 4 pm, but by starting early we could take on a longer route than on the day before. We settled for second highest summit in the area - Cyl, 1517m.
The walk turned out to be just as exciting as the one we had already done on the previous day. En route to the summit we visited a PTTK hotel/hostel - an occurrence which is relatively common in the Polish mountains and after having made some inquiries we found out some 50-60 people had spent the night there the night before. We decided that next time over we will stay just there ourselves.

Markowe Szczawiny.JPG
Markowe Szczawiny


After I'd got some postcards and souvenirs we set off again following a path through an impressive fir and spruce forest; thawing icicles falling down all around us and sinking in to the deep snow.

primeval forest.JPG
primeval forest


Upon reaching the saddle between two hills we noticed that vast majority of walkers were, as on the previous day, headed for Babia Gora - the highest of the two hills. The prospect of having the whole mountain for ourselves cheered us up even more and we could do nothing but smile and laugh even when collapsing into really deep snow.

enjoying the snow.JPG
enjoying the snow


The haze in the air was more noticeable and the views consequently obscured (although we were still able to see for long long kilometers around).

looking back to Babia Gora.JPG
looking back to Babia Gora


Upon reaching the summit we met a local boy who told us he had gotten up very early in the morning and walked a great distance from his house to reach the summit. As we talked he was packing his snowshoes (a great deal of people we met would wear those) and putting on his snowboard with intension of going down one of the slopes. Off piste, of course. He'd seemed to be quite confident, positive about all this, but as we later learned he'd have an accident and had to call for help as he'd injured his legs and was unable to walk. Right enough, we heard and saw the rescue helicopter some 30-40 min after leaving the summit and we wondered whether our new friend had got himself into trouble.

unlucky snowboarder.JPG
unlucky snowboarder


Slovakian waymarks.JPG
Slovakian waymarks


The rest of our walk looked similar to what we'd done on day one. This time we stuck with the previously agreed route and we did it without any unwanted surprises. Our spirits high, we remained gleeful, undeterred even by ploughing through knee deep snow for most of the way down.

way down.JPG
way down


being a boy again.JPG
being a boy again



The saddest moment of all came after saying 'Goodbye' to the house owner cause it simply meant saying 'Goodbye' to the mountains and the beautiful and picturesque area that had offered us so much joy.
We stopped for diner few kilometers down the road in a very climatic, full of character restaurant decorated inside and out in local folklore style. Through the window beside our table I could see Babia Gora and found myself not being to take my eyes of it - it being lit up by late afternoon sun with tinge of orange painting iced up slopes above the tree line on the formidable north face..
Neither of us able to really enjoy delicious food, we remain silent for some time, each of us reminiscing, trying decide the best moments perhaps, knowing that we will never forget them..

Babia Gora.JPG
Babia Gora
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xslawekx
 
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Re: Poland - Babia Gora

Postby xslawekx » Wed Mar 28, 2012 6:41 pm

@ RTC - haven't been up Rysy yet, despite having been in Zakopane several times. As far as I know it is a long but not technical day out. In August you are likely to end up queuing to the chains higher up as Rysy is the most visited summit in the High Tatras :-) Also, I'd recommend getting to know a national park code of conduct - there's a strict protection policy within all of the Polish national parks, and, wild camping for instance, is prohibited. Rysy is a mountain of three peaks, by the way... Good luck.
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Re: Poland - Babia Gora

Postby mrssanta » Wed Mar 28, 2012 9:06 pm

I loved this report, you obviously had a fantastic time and the pic over to the High Tatras is stunning
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Re: Poland - Babia Gora

Postby ChrisW » Thu Mar 29, 2012 6:15 am

Absolutely fantastic, a great read with stunning pics to bring it to life, so many great shots but the 'Warrior III at Sokolica' is a real beauty, pushes the adrenalin button almost immediately :D
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Re: Poland - Babia Gora

Postby BlackPanther » Thu Mar 29, 2012 10:54 am

Oh dear Lord almighty! I used to visit Polish mountains with my parents as a young brat. That feels like travelling back in time :lol: :lol:
Polish mountains are superb, especially if you manage to run away from the crowds. One big disadvantage of Zakopane: countless tourists. Sometimes you have to wait in the cue to climb a hill. Luckily there are enough quiet corners to escape from that.
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Re: Poland - Babia Gora

Postby blueyed » Fri Mar 30, 2012 12:38 pm

rysy are AWESOME and relatively easy, been up there when i was 14. in good old times there werent people queueing at all... ehh....
nice report thou slawek ;)
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