1 mile to one of Sutherland's best views - Creag na Faoilinn

[denfinella]

Sometimes the unplanned walks turn out to be the best ones. It was our last full day in Sutherland and the wind had, once again, prevented us from going high - Arkle and its narrow ridge would have to wait. We'd spent the morning visiting Faraid Head (http://www.walkhighlands.co.uk/Forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=31719) and then Smoo Cave (no boat trips due to the wind blowing too much water into the cave system)...

...and then the afternoon pottering around the western shore of Loch Eriboll, visiting at all the sights which looked remotely interesting on the 1:25000 map. Traigh allt Chailgeag at the northern end is definitely worth a visit...

...and the souterrain near Port Chamuill was surprisingly complete (but flooded!) - whilst Portnancon, Rispond and the other souterrain at the very head of the loch weren't so rewarding.

Anyway, with blue sky clinging to the northern coast as per usual this week, we decided on an impromptu wander up Creag na Faoilinn, the unlisted hill at the very head of Loch Eriboll. Primarily a way to fill time, it did at least look like it had the potential for some decent views, and a short but circular walk was possible.

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From the side of the A838 where we parked our car the hill looked small but foreboding.

Creag na Faoilinn from sea level

A good track leads southwards up Strath Beag, hugged by the cliffs on the left hand side. Soon these begin to break down and give way to rocky outcrops and grass. Just about where we wanted to turn off, the track uexpectedly forked and the left fork gave us a bonus headstart up the hillside. Already there were decent views south up the strath.

Strath Beag

The track soon fizzles out and we just headed straight up the steep slopes, easily negotiating a fence at one point and generally threading our way between patches of heather. After the initial steep bit the slope leveled off again, with the next steep section having a few shallow gullies to choose between to aid ascent. We roughly aimed for the left-most lochan marked on our OS map, but ended up further to the left and overlooking them - not a problem as this was closer to the summit! Looking back, Foinaven (http://www.walkhighlands.co.uk/Forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=31434 - previously attempted and not conquered!) and its ridge were now revealed, with a dusting of overnight snow yet to melt away.

Foinaven

From here, the summit was soon reached. Coming up the back of the hill has an advantage that always bodes well on a walk - the sudden unveiling of a view. And this was truly a viewpoint which surpassed expectation. Perfectly placed, Creag na Faoilinn sits in a perfect position from which to view Loch Eriboll in its full glory. Wow...

View from the top

It wouldn't be exaggerating to say that this was the best view (and perhaps the best moment) of the whole week - unmissable if you have a couple of hours spare and aren't too preoccupied with only bagging listed hills.

It was windy up top but we found some shelter behind a rock outcrop and sat admiring the view for a little while. The way down was by way of the valley to the NE - a little boggy (in fairly dry conditions - so perhaps best to descend by the route of ascent during wet periods) but with traces of a path. Just before reaching the road, it's possible to traverse left to avoid wet ground, ending up in a drier grove of trees which lead back to the tarmac, also slightly shortening the 10-minute road walk at the end.

Anybody else been here? You should!

[molemike]

Hello denfinella!
Nice to read your reports as you have been there at nearly the same time. Gives me some consolation while watching the rain at home day by day
Not too much water on your Smoo Cave picture? The week before me and my camera got immediately wet when I stepped in
First picture:

Tried another one :

On my way to Tongue and Ben Loyal ( cancelled due to the weather, Ben Hope too )
I first noticed Loch Eribol as a 20km detour

Wish I had the idea of walking Creag na Faoilinn on my way back , envy you for that
A picture I named "Queen of Loch Eribol" will always remind me

[denfinella]

Hi Molemike,

Sorry, only just seen your comment. I think there was more water in the previous days in the cave, but the SW wind had died down a bit by the Wednesday which apparently slowed the water flow down (the source for the waterfall is a narrow loch which is prone to a sort of funneling effect and has its outflow at the NE end). A little disappointing that there were no boat trips, but safety first I guess.

Love your sheep picture. It does look like you had a rainy week though - we're always very selective about when we take our photos so it always gives the impression that we've returned from a succession of bluebird days!

If you go back, don't miss Creag na Faoilinn. Ten times better than you think it'll be at the bottom. (I've raised your expectations too high now... )