Scrambled in Skye

[weaselmaster]

A few months back I noticed a scrambling course advertised on the MCofS website aimed at hillwalkers that were looking to up their skills for the more demanding Munros on the list. Aha, thinks me – that’s just what I need for the second half of the hills, and luckily book the last 2 places. It’s in Skye as well – a place that sends me into a cold sweat at the very mention of *the Cuillin* Then it gets filed away at the back of the brain as something scary that’s going to happen one day, but doesn’t need to be thought about quite yet. However, that day eventually rolls round and the apprehension builds over the week. I’ve no real idea how experienced or not the other participants will be and have my usual worries of being a big wuss when it comes to steep and exposed stuff. However, I reckon that the hills I’ve covered in the last month should have set me up for it fairly well and to make sure, we decide to put in the Forcan Ridge as a wee tester on the way to the course.

I’ve only ever been to Skye once before, many years ago for a day trip, and have no idea what the hills are going to look like up close. In fact, the only time I went was before the Skye bridge was built, so that was a novelty to go over. I’d also been a bit concerned about “tiny narrow roads” but in fact the single track to Glen Brittle is served much better by passing places than many other wee tracks I’ve had to encounter in recent hillwalks, so I quite enjoyed the drive to the Glen Brittle Hut. Clag was hiding the tops of the hills when we arrived, but we’d had good views of Bla Bheinn and the strange flat-topped Dun Caan on Raasay. Midges were out in force, surprisingly, as we parked at the hut. We were greeted by Heather (Morning) who was running the course along with Bill Strachan from Scotch on the Rocks guiding. The good news – for us - was that 3 people on the course were cancellations or no shows, which meant a ratio of guide to student of 1:2 – not bad for the measly price of £90 for 2 days including accommodation! We met up with the other 3 learners in the party and had some basic instruction in rope work – something entirely new to me. I’ve never been great with knots, but here was an incentive to make sure they were right, as I’d potentially be left dangling from one…

The Hut itself was comfy and I regretted not bringing a more varied selection of foodstuffs to cook in the well equipped kitchen. There was a resident warden, the rather ferociously territorial Ruth, who informed us she’d been a warden there for 36 years and considered herself “she who must be obeyed” I think. We all had an early night in the dorm (NB – the top canvas bunks are comfier than the bottom solid ones)

Day 1: Sgurr Sgumain via Sron na Ciche Ridge


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A reasonably clear morning greeted us for the following day – we headed down to Glen Brittle campsite – surely midge heaven if ever such a place exists – and started to walk along to Coir a’Ghrunnda where we were going to go up the sides of the crags.


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About an hour into the approach I realised with a sinking feeling that I had left our helmets on the parcel shelf of the car. This was not good. Heather, being the Safety Officer for MCofS was, needless to say less than impressed and ended up giving Allison her own helmet and commandeering Annie, the trainee Mountain Instructor’s for me. I felt really awful about that – I’d been prepared to walk without one, but knew that might be difficult for Heather to allow, and now I was endangering someone else’s skull contents through my lack of organisation… Abashed, I couldn’t really mock anyone else that day, and boy, did we come across a few numpties out on the hill. Gold medal goes to the young Spanish couple who were following behind us and asked, as we stopped to practice belaying, “Is this the way to the top?” In unison, Allison & Heather ask – “the top of what?”. “The hill” is the reply. Heather tells them that this is really quite a tricky place to be walking in, having established they have no map, guide book or even rucksack. They look a bit bewildered, walk on for a bit and we’re relieved to see them head back down the track an hour or so later, having presumably been up to the Loch. Aye, just nip up Sgurr Alasdair without any kit or directions, you’ll be fine pal!

View back to Soay

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An casteil

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We set off up the ridge on sron na ciche, me being particularly consious there were a group of rock climbers directly above us, hence the need for helmets was increased and Heather hadn't got one because of me...


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Climbers above the route we take:

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Where does this bit go?

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Used ropes for a couple of easy pitches then some scrambling up to the top of the ridge,

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before a tricky little descent to the bealach at the top of the Sgumain stone chute - got to try an improvised abseil technique on this one after belaying Allison down.

Top of Sron na Ciche, looking to Loch coir a'ghrunnda

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Heading up Sgurr Sgumain

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Sgurr Alasdair

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Coir a'ghrunnda

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Sgurr dubh Mor

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The Cioch

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Sgurr dubh Mor

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Alasdair from Sgumain - looks easy but isn't!

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Basteir Tooth

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Sgurr Mhic Connich

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Weather was clearing and Heather gave us the chance to nip up to the peak of Sgurr Sgumain. No second invitation needed we jumped at the chance and were rewarded with fantastic views down into Coir a'ghrunnda and over to the adjacent peak of Alasdair, plus the neighbouring summits of Dubh Mor, Nan Eag and Mhic Connich - also able to make out the Inn Pinn. Descended in high spirits having been granted unexpectedly clear views and the day got even better with a double raven fly past, the grokks echoing from the stony walls around us.

Bealach at top of Sgumain Stone Chute

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Descent was by the Sgumain Stone Chute, a fairly steep bouldery passage down into Coire Lagan. We'd seen the Cioch from above and on the way down the Chute we saw it from below. The descent gave great views along the east section of the main ridge too including the rather terrifying TD gap. Oh I'm not sure I'm looking forward to doing this lot


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Cioch from below

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Sgumain Chute

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Picking our way carefully amongst the boulders took a while but eventually we got back down to flat ground and had a pleasant walk back to the campsite.


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Back at the Hut the weather just got better and better and it got to the point where it was too hot to sit in the sun At least the dry heat kept the *Midge* away. We had a pleasant evening in the company of the other learners, with the Leaders having gone off for an evening in Carbost.


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Bedroom

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View from Hut

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Sgurr Sgumain being the right of the twin pointy peaks (alasdair's the other one)

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Evening glow

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Day 2: Sgurr an Fheadain via the Spur from the Fairy Pools
I suppose I'd hoped to get maybe 1 Munro summit out of the weekend and when this little hill (688m) was suggested there was perhaps a bit of disappointment. Looking at the route books suggested it might be quite interesting however. i'd had a lousy night's sleep and woke with a headache, so wasn't on the best form in the morning. i did, however, remember to pack the helmets
we were going to use longer rope pitches today - yesterday we'd been using 30m ropes, today it was up to 60m which was quite substaintially heavier to carry, especially once it was wet

We parked up at the Fairy Pools carpark in a haze of *Midge* and quick-walked it down to the Pools, which were lovely - amazingly blue water. Some way ahead of us there was a couple of guys, one wearing a white rain poncho which made him look like a ghost - I though a bit like the PacMan ghosts that went about eating up the creatures. Anyway, with the balance of my mind still suitably disturbed we got to the foot of the steep, pyramidic peak, which is mostly basalt.


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Our party

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The "Ghost"

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Heather had intended that we use the slabs at the base for some free scrambling practice, but the wet weather had curtailed that option due to considerable slippiness and we used ropes instead. The repetitive nature of finding a belay, securing and heading up was excellent practice, although it made me aware of two things - firstly the need for concentration at all times when on a rope (or responsibel for someone else on your rope) and secondly that pulling in slack from a belay is pretty tiring work on the arm. Later on we learned how to use an Italian Hitch belay which made that part easier. I felt I was getting quite slick with some of the rope work now - something that surprised me as it usually takes me an age to learn anything practical. Another thing I learned was that it takes a lot longer to get anywhere when you are using ropes, and that this is a bit challenging when small clouds of midges find out where you are sitting, even over 500m.


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Allison getting ready to go up

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We got to the top of the slopy section and had something to eat before cracking on to the steep rocky part to the summit.


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I was able to lead on most of the sections here and felt comfortable in doing so. Eventually we topped out and enjoyed a free scramble up to the very top, past some fantastic views down Waterpipe Gully.

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Descent was down the scree slopes to the east of the hill down into Coire na Creiche - this was proper scree and was great fun - for me at least - sliding down at a fair pace - Allison remains a bit scared of scree since her traumatic encounter with it on Foinaven

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"we were up there!"

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Followed the Allt Coir a'Tairnealar back down to the Fairy Pools, which were seething with people including a large group of brightly clothed peole being addressed by a man in a large black cloak - clearly the nemesis of the white ghost we'd seen earlier.


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Back to the Hut to pick up our stuff then a wonderful evening to drive down the road - the sea calm as a millpond and great views all the way down, including a striking sunset through Glen Coe - pity I was driving and had to watch the road. Bite to eat at the Cluanie Inn (their fish & chips being top notch as usual) and home by 10.30.

A really great weekend that boosted my confidence with scrambly terrain and taught me the basics about rope work for hillwalking purposes. think I'm still a little way off the nerve needed to do any climbing but lets say i'm less terrified of the idea than I was this time last week. I'd heartily recommend this course to anyone who was looking to up their basic skills - Heather's a great teacher

[dtr42]

well done on your course and a great report

[nathan79]

Some cracking scrambly fun indeed.

I did the Glencoe scrambling course, Heather and Bill both present at that, and it was well worth it.

[Bod]

Great report and well done! Some great locations there and what a good idea doing it on an MCofS scrambling course, a cracking deal there

ps...your photo with the question mark, that is Sgurr Mhic Choinnich, TD gap is located on the south east side of Sgurr Alasdair.

[weaselmaster]

ps...your photo with the question mark, that is Sgurr Mhic Choinnich, TD gap is located on the south east side of Sgurr Alasdair.

Thanks for the correction - does look much more of a notch than a gap, that one, didn't think I could be right
Don't think I'll be going near it at the WH meet next month though - sticking to easier ground

[Bog_Seeking_M1ssle]

Great report! Was great to meet you and Allison. The Spur looks like great fun...I'm pretty sure John and I were definitely in climbing territory on day 2!!

[rockhopper]

This does look familiar - missed you by a day or so. Excellent idea to take a course - won't be long before you're back to cover the hills no doubt - cheers