Loch Quoich Threesome

[weaselmaster]

I’d kinda resigned myself to a winter of doing repeats to allow Sick Kid to catch up on her hills and didn’t expect to get any “new” hills for myself until the daylight hours started to lengthen again but the promise of reasonable weather for the weekend got my thinking cap on…due to the state of Sick Kid’s knees we needed shortish routes, where could we venture to? Loch Quoich appeared a possibility – to cover Spidean Mialach and Gleouriach one day and Sgurr a’Mhaoraich the next, both under 15km each – sounds like a plan. Up we headed on Friday evening. I was a bit apprehensive about driving along the single track road to Quoich dam in the dark, but it was a better surface than I had anticipated with the only challenging part being to keep sight of the road amidst swathes of low-lying mist. Spotted the square edge of the dam looming out of the foggy darkness and parked just beyond, a flattish area of grass by the roadside serving as a makeshift pitch for the night. Somewhere on the hillside above, a stag made sure that we didn’t get too much sleep, with bellows now closer, now further off.

After a warmer night than expected a leisurely start saw us getting going for 10ish. It is always interesting to arrive somewhere at night and have no knowledge of what your surroundings are like til you wake in the morning. To the west lay the waters of Loch Quoich, low cloud sitting on the mountain tops. Back eastward fog lay in the dips in the land, creating a fluffy dreamscape. Weather not as bright as I’d hoped for…


P1050281 by 23weasels, on Flickr


P1050283 by 23weasels, on Flickr

It was a short drive of 4km along to a parking spot for the walk up to Spidean. Lots of works going on – pipelines, diggers, earth movers and general desecration of the landscape. We’d decided to do the route anticlockwise, and were soon tramping through boggy terrain. Snowline was at around 350m and the path wove in and out of sight. Lots of thick, soft, wet snow that congealed around your boots to contend with. Up ahead we could see the faint outline of the ridge surrounding coire dubh, white snow in white clag. Pressing on through the snow we got to the top, where a chill wind was blowing. Peak of the Animals – well the only animal I saw was an earwig on the summit cairn as we stopped for a bite to eat. An earwig in snow at 996m – go figure!



P1050287 by 23weasels, on Flickr

Spidean Mialach

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P1050290 by 23weasels, on Flickr

Onwards to Gleouraich next – following the ridge around the Garbh coires, down to the bealach then up again to 1006m Creag Coire na Fiar Bhelaich. At times it looked as though the sun might come through but twas not to be. Smirry rain and clag continued. We sometimes got a glimpse back southwards to Loch Quoich, but the South Glenshiel ridge just to our north remained shrouded. Finally the cairn of Gleouriach appeared ahead and we’d made it – this marked my 200th Munro of this year, which gave cause for a mini-celebration.

Glimpses of the northern coire from SM

P1050293 by 23weasels, on Flickr

Up to CCnFB

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View back along the ridge edge

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Loch Quoich

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Number 200 for the year

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Stumbling through the snowy bogs we picked up a great stalkers path that took us fairly painlessly down the shoulder of the mountain. As we descended, views to the south and west opened up – the bridge over the northern finger of Loch Quoich and tomorrow’s intended target beyond. Back down at the car, feet soaked but happy after just over 6 hours walking.

Beginning the descent

P1050308 by 23weasels, on Flickr

Rose tinted hills

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West along Loch Quoich

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A moody Gairich

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P1050317 by 23weasels, on Flickr

Before the light completely failed we drove along to the bridge and cast around for a suitable pitching spot. There’s a little flat area just beyond the parking area for Mhaoraich which we made good use of. Happily, I’d brought some veg chilli for tea tonight, so there was more of a feast than the usual noodles. Great what a bit of good spicy food can do when you’re cold and tired.

Next morning dawned clear and still. We headed off down the road towards the start of the walk. Loch Quoich was tranquil with the south shore hills reflected mirror-like in the surface of the water. Near the beginning of the path our way was blocked by a stag, who eventually moved to higher ground and stood watching us as we set foot on the stalker’s path. Ahead was another and to our left a group of 4 stags. Obviously Sunday morning get together for the beasts.

Campsite

P1050318 by 23weasels, on Flickr

East along L Quoich

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Towards Knoydart (with stag)

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Watchin' you...

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Mirror pool

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The path was another good one and took us fairly effortlessly to 600m. My eyes were continually being drawn back south to the Loch Arkaig hills…Soon we could see the hump of Sgurr Coire nan Eiricheallach ahead, with the imposing Sgurr a’Mhaoraich beyond. We were following the footsteps of walkers from the day before which helped rather than having to break trail. Despite the sunlight and the warmth of the day, the snow was crunchy and became increasingly glazed as we gained height. To our right lay Gleouraich, resplendent, ahead to the north the great curve of the south Shiel ridge. We could see the sunlight playing on the pointy peak of The Saddle.

First sight of Sgurr a'Mhaoraich

P1050336 by 23weasels, on Flickr

Drinking in the scenery...

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Gleouraich

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View south over L Quoich

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Final steep section

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In the last section up towards the summit we required to negotiate a couple of boulder crags which were made a little tricky by a layer of ice on the surface. Time for crampons and axe to be deployed. Then a steep slope up to the summit proper, on frozen snow. On the flattish top the view astounded. Sgritheall, Ladhar Beinn, Forcan Ridge, Sisters, Ciste Dubh, A’Chralaig, even my personal nemesis hill Sgurr nan Ceathreamhnan (yet to be climbed) stood out bold and white against a blue sky. Snow delineated the sharp edges of the mountains and gave testament to the awesome forces of nature responsible for wresting this lot out of the ground. The air was warm, there was still not a breath of air and I would have willingly suspended time to stay here and gawp.


P1050351 by 23weasels, on Flickr

Half a Sick Kid and the Saddle behind

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Summit panorama

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However, it was time to press on as the thought of a long drive back in the dark was still nagging away at the back of my mind. Yesterday’s crew had returned the way they’d come, but we decided to complete the route round the northern edge of Coire a’Chaorainn which meant a steep rocky descent to Bhealach Coire a’Chaorainn then an equally steep climb up 150m or so to Am Bathaich. Sick Kid was definitely not impressed as some of the moves involved a bit of knee work, but we made it. We did pass a strange circular ice hole which appeared the wintry equivalent of a crop circle. Allison dared me to stand in it, but I thought it likely to be a portal to some icy hell or other, so left it untouched.

Descent from SaM

P1050365 by 23weasels, on Flickr

Gleouraich

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Way ahead to Am Bathaich

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P1050371 by 23weasels, on Flickr

Ice vortex

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Summit Am Bathaich

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The route now took us over a series of descending tops until we reached the eastern shoulder. Another steep descent through deepish snow with the occasional boulder and plunge pit then onto the geometry…On our ascent we’d noted a perfectly chiselled pattern of zigzags as the path descended and we followed these down the remainder of the way until we reached the flat – and boggy – land alongside Allt Coire a’Chaorainn. Another river to cross, a drink of water to replenish parched throats (Sick Kid not too keen on the water animal swimming at the bottom of her cup) and a pleasant walk alongside the River Quoich through trees in the fading light. The walk had taken longer, and more effort than I’d have guessed and it was with no small relief that we hit the vehicle track for the last 3 km back to the car. A fantastic day out in the hills.

Descent path

P1050377 by 23weasels, on Flickr


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Pastel coloured Ben in the distance

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P1050382 by 23weasels, on Flickr

Coire a'Chaorainn

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P1050385 by 23weasels, on Flickr

Gleouraich

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Gairich

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[Scotjamie]

Fabulous Al... Just a great report. Did the 1st two in stair-rods of rain, so nice to see good pics

[mrssanta]

That was gorgeous, I'm more than a little jealous. I reckon the icy portal has a lochan underneath, but equally could be the way to somewhere weird!

[basscadet]

200th this year? Thats dedication for you

Brilliant hills these, had the most amazing time on them and glad you did too

[ceaser]

200 for the year ....so far , well done pitty you didn't get the same weather on day 1 as you did on the 2nd ,the views are tremendous up there , loved my walk on those hills

[weaselmaster]

200 for the year ....so far , well done pitty you didn't get the same weather on day 1 as you did on the 2nd ,the views are tremendous up there , loved my walk on those hills

Aye Sunday was just perfect.
No way I'd have managed to fit in Gairich as well though - was puggled after Sgurr a'Mhaoraich - must be worn out

[scottishkennyg]

Well done WM on reaching the double century...and good job SK as those descents are punishing on the knees..

[jonny616]

Glad you had some good weather. It was Gammy, Alan S and I waving at you from the car as you were coming out of your tent on Saturday morning.

[Graeme D]

Superb stuff guys. I am vaguely considering the double for this weekend. If I head up Friday night your campsite may be used again.

[goth_angel]

200 in a year? How? That's 4 a weekend walking every weekend

Nice report - some cracking pictures on day 2. Out of these only done Gleouraich due to an epic fail from MWIS (promised 90% cloud free & dry turned into clag and pouring rain) and bailed after hill 1.

The paths are cracking.

[weaselmaster]

200 in a year? How? That's 4 a weekend walking every weekend

Yep - I don't have much of a life
There's been maybe 3 week long excursions as well over the year that have managed to keep the numbers topped up.
Biggest helpful factor is taking a tent so that you can make the most of the weekends
And, of course, developing obsessional hill-related behaviours

[anxious-ambler]

Amazing report, and the photos are stunning!!

Congrats on your 200th of the year

[Collaciotach]

Grand hills and one of the best areas in the Gaidhealtachd .

Enjoyed that