free to be able to rate and comment on reports (as well as access 1:25000 mapping).
As a student way back in 1969 I spent a week on Iona...... and had never been back since. I thought Pete would like it so it was a 'must do' while we were on Mull. But the day we planned to go the weather wasn't looking good so it was left to the day after our clag-ridden climb of Ben More - except that the morning dawned misty and murky and we didn't fancy the long drive on single track Mull roads to see nothing. Then at 1.00 it cleared and we decided to go for it.
Arriving on the island at 2.30 we knew we couldn't see it all so chose to explore the north end. Not having access to the WH route to follow this isn't exactly it.... but think the photos are worth sharing anyway.
The last time I crossed it was a cold grey day in March - this looked rather more inviting.
Iona from Fionnphort
I've done nothing to enhance the colour on any of these shots - the sea really was that colour.
From ferry
We walked up the road past the ruins of the nunnery, Maclean's Cross and the organic vegetable gardens for the hotel but I had to stop and take a photo or two of Iona Abbey, trying to remember what it was like with a bunch of 1960s students all crammed into dormitories in what felt like a proper monastery with cloisters.
Think we behaved ourselves. Kind of.
Iona Abbey
Leaving the ghosts of the past we strolled on up the road with dogs firmly on lead because of freely grazing sheep. We saw the sign for the highest point Dun I (which if we'd had longer we'd have climbed for the views) but kept on going. The last time I was on the island we climbed it and covered pretty much every inch of the island looking at the history of the place when Columba arrived from Ireland in 563, arguably the first to bring Christianity to Scotland. He must have liked it so much he set up base on the island and sent out mission trips as far as Craig Phadrig in Inverness, among other places, but always returning to Iona. And on a day like this who could blame him?
We met some folk staying in the hostel who told us a film crew were up ahead making a film - either about Iona or set on Iona - not sure which. When we got there they were packing up.
Film crew
They evidently felt they needed a wind machine.
Wind machine off to other location
We climbed on to a rocky knoll to soak in the views - felt like paradise
From our perch we crossed the croftland heading to the left towards a bench and farm gate to reach the shore. As Pete walked ahead with the dogs I thought wistfully of the day before on Ben More in low thick cloud and today it was all but clear.
Ben More straight ahead with a little wispy cloud on top
We followed the path to a gate leading to the first of three beaches
Island on right is Staffa - not sure about submarine-shaped one
Paddling Tess looking vulnerable with that shark-like rock behind
Pink rock
We walked back to the spot the crew had been filming and over the vivid green to the beaches on the east side of the north end.
White shell sand
We didn't meet a soul which considering how many came over on the ferry with us does seem surprising. Where did they all go? If it had been raining tea and scones at the Columba maybe - but on an afternoon like this?
Interesting arrangement of stones which probably means something
Too soon we had to leave to head back to catch the ferry. We bumped into the film crew again and ended up squeezing our way through luvvies milling around with serious camera equipment where the gate opened on to the end of the road. Jack wanted to do his usual thing of greeting every individual with a friendly nudge to the crotch but we managed to restrain him and retraced our steps stopping at the Iona Community shop where the dogs had a drink from the large water bowl they thoughtfully leave outside.
A local farmer complete with tractor and trailer stopped to chat and told us he'd been booked by the film people for his tractoring skills to transport heavy stuff about the island but no he didn't know any more about what kind of film it was - except it should be hitting the screens some time in the spring. He'd been busy with them for the past fortnight and he didn't say who was seeing to the normal farm stuff while he was otherwise engaged.
It's a strange feeling to be back at a place last visited 45 years ago and thinking of all that's happened since
We were a bit early for the ferry so bought ice cream in the shop on the road heading south and walked down there to fill the time meeting a lovely couple who admired our "beautiful dogs" who duly enjoyed the attention. I'd have loved to explore the west side of the island but that will have to wait for next time - if there is one. One thing's for sure, if I do come back I can't leave it 45 years this time!
Waiting for the ferry to come in
