Sgurr Sgumain and Sgurr Alasdair: Learning the ropes

[Emmanuelle]

Recap from Day 1 – the plan for Day 2 was to do Blaven by the Clac Glas ridge. However the forecast was unfavourable (steady rain), necessitating an adjustment in expectations. The risk of getting caught up in unrelenting rain on an unrelenting ridge being high, a trip to Sgurr Alasdair via Sgurr Sgumain was deemed preferable: a shorter albeit exciting, scramble, and therefore less time struggling in the rain, with a greater certainty of reaching the summit.

We set off on foot towards the Memorial Hut, 1 km down the road, and turned off to take the path which is initially shared by Sgurr Alasdair, Sgurr Mhic Choinnich and Sgurr Dearg. We headed east towards Coire Lagan.

I normally feel fitter on the second day of a multi-day trip but not today. I was carrying the rope and could feel the additional weight. I also felt hampered by my waterproof trousers. We soon reached the real hard work, a jumble of boulders hugging the base of Sgurr Sgumain’s west buttress. Later that day Andy described the hike up to the bealach as a hard slog. And here was me thinking I was the only one who was feeling the pain!

Underfoot was awkward – unsteady on the Sgurr Gumain stone chute, developing into a clamber over large boulders, although not quite scrambling – yet! It was difficult to get into a rhythm and my legs felt full of lead. Soon enough however we stopped to put on helmets and that seemed to lift my spirits and fill me with trepidation in equal measures – not a bad feeling actually. Indeed things were getting serious, again! I really began to enjoy myself when the scrambling began in earnest. Gradually the fatigue eased away and the clamber on to the bealach came as a lovely surprise. Willy nilly, we had been on the go for more than two hours, and the last half hour just seemed to whizz by.

I got the rope out of my rucksack (a nice relief) and we got geared up. I was teamed up with Euan, John leading Andy and Gayle. It was nice to have one-to-one support and today I could begin to learn something about the roping process, rather than ‘climb by numbers’!

Weather interlude: gloomy, gloamy, we stayed in cloud for most of the day, with some clearer interludes. Once we got a glimpse of Coire Ghrunnda, with a small person in bright clothing ascending or descending I couldn’t be sure (and tbh, I can’t remember!). And we managed to get glimpses of Sgurr Alasdair and the shoulders, but not the head, of Sgurr Dearg!

Euan and I soon reached the summit of Sgurr Sgumain after some exposed scrambling. I was actually surprised at how quickly we got there. The summit is fairly slabby and coming off the summit entails some bum shuffling on the wet stone. The other three were behind us so we led the way down to the next bealach. The climb to Sgurr Alasdair entailed heading down to a chimney. The climb up the base of this chimney presented few difficulties and did not feel dangerous. From the top of this, we prepared to head straight up, picking our way up in ropelengths. I was warned against walking up the grassy patches and advised to stay on the rock (you can take me climbing but you can’t take the hillwalker out of me…). The other three caught up with us. Thus we all reached the narrow summit of Sgurr Alasdair at the same time and had to take turns to claim the summit! This was my third new Munro of the trip and my 247th Munro. Coming off the summit involved more bum shuffling and we soon reached the Great Stone Chute bealach and bivvy spot. By then it was drizzling steadily.

After a snack and some photos standing in puddles of water, we started the long uncomfortable and unsteady zigzag down the stone chute. It’s really steep and stones are too large for surfing. It’s at times like these that I wish I was 20 years younger! In places the underlying slab was exposed, sapping confidence about getting a good grip. Eventually we reached the last slope when the stones turns to a finer scree and it becomes fun, surfing and skiing, letting the scree collect on top of the boots and control the slide!

Of course I was last down and by the time I reached them, the others had had a nice wee rest and removed all non-essential gear and clothing. After a brief pause for me, we set off again, heading for Loch Coire Lagan and its slabby shores and on to Loch an Fhir-bhallaich. The cloudbase had lifted to reveal lovely views over Rum and the headland beyond Loch Brittle. The young ‘uns scooted down the path back to Glen Brittle and, left to my own devices, I retreated into my head, quietly exulting about the day’s achievements.

As I reached the Memorial Hut, I found John being informed that there was a power cut affecting the whole island! So after ditching the gear and hanging it to dry in the drying room and a quick change, a cup of tea made from the hot water that was left in the urn, Andy, Gayle and I went for a stroll to the beach. We got back just as the rain started. By then the power had been restored and we all scooted upstairs for lovely hot showers.

Another excellent day, although more views would have been welcome. I also missed the abseils of the day before.

Once again, thanks to Andy Gifford whose photographs I've added to supplement mine.

To be continued...

2014-09-27 10.51.31 by emmanuelletulle, on Flickr
2014-09-27 11.42.28 by emmanuelletulle, on Flickr
From the top of the Sgurr Sgumain stone chute by emmanuelletulle, on Flickr
Sgurr Sgumain Chute by andygiff, on Flickr
Sgurr Dearg by andygiff, on Flickr
Sgurr Sgumain by andygiff, on Flickr
Sgurr Alasdair and Great Stone Chute by andygiff, on Flickr
Sgurr Alasdair summit! by emmanuelletulle, on Flickr
Great Stone Chute Bealach by andygiff, on Flickr
Loch a'Coire Lagan by emmanuelletulle, on Flickr
Loch Coire Lagan by andygiff, on Flickr
Coire Lagan by andygiff, on Flickr

Looking up the Great Stone Chute by emmanuelletulle, on Flickr
2014-09-27 15.41.37 by emmanuelletulle, on Flickr
Gayle and my damp camera by emmanuelletulle, on Flickr
2014-09-27 15.42.40 by emmanuelletulle, on Flickr
This way. No, that way. by emmanuelletulle, on Flickr
2014-09-27 15.51.59 by emmanuelletulle, on Flickr
I think they're plotting by emmanuelletulle, on Flickr
2014-09-27 15.57.31 by emmanuelletulle, on Flickr
2014-09-27 15.58.04 by emmanuelletulle, on Flickr
More cows! by emmanuelletulle, on Flickr
On the beach by emmanuelletulle, on Flickr

[Silverhill]

Sounds like an excellent day. It also sounds like you’re enjoying this climbing more and more!

[gaffr]

Learning the ropes but not the names/spelling of the Skye tops although the photographer got it right ....easily done if you are not of our land. My wife who is French has her own way of speaking of our hills as I am frequently corrected by her when we are in the French mountains.

[JimboJim]

Great photo's thanks - helped my constipation immensely!

Keep them coming, all the same, cheers.

[Fife Flyer]

Nice one Emmanuelle, it's always a shame you can't book decent weather when you venture over to Skye

Still not sure if I will conquer any of the Skye Munro's

[Emmanuelle]

Learning the ropes but not the names/spelling of the Skye tops although the photographer got it right ....easily done if you are not of our land. My wife who is French has her own way of speaking of our hills as I am frequently corrected by her when we are in the French mountains.

I'm sure you didn't mean to be patronising, so I'll forgive you. Most Scots don't speak or understand gaelic (it never was the majority language anyway) and I'd defy anyone not to get the names wrong occasionally. However, I have now corrected the obvious mistake

[Emmanuelle]

Nice one Emmanuelle, it's always a shame you can't book decent weather when you venture over to Skye

Still not sure if I will conquer any of the Skye Munro's

Martin, you absolutely must. They are wonderful hills and the whole ridge is simply awesome, in the old fashioned meaning of the word. I know a very good guide. I still have four new ones to do, one which I'll do unguided (Bruach na Frithe) but three which I'll do with a guide and you're very welcome to join me in these adventures (also a good way to share the cost of the guide). Probably next spring. Let me know if you're interested.

[dogplodder]

That looks awesome!