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25years later...the legend lives on

25years later...the legend lives on


Postby xslawekx » Fri Oct 24, 2014 5:14 pm

Today is the 25th anniversary of the death of the greatest high altitude climber who ever lived - Jerzy Kukuczka.
On the 24 October 1989 he fell to his death attempting to climb the unclimbed South Face of Llotse..

All hail Jerzy

jerzy-kukuczka-katowice-graffiti1.jpg
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Re: 25years later...the legend lives on

Postby GMurphy » Fri Oct 24, 2014 5:47 pm

Hi xslawekx,

You might be interested in this, scroll down to the bottom of the page to see a Alpinist magazine comic about a Polish climbing tragedy on Everest

http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web13x/newswire-artur-hajzer-gasherbrum-fall
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Re: 25years later...the legend lives on

Postby CharlesT » Fri Oct 24, 2014 6:26 pm

xslawekx wrote:Today is the 25th anniversary of the death of the greatest high altitude climber who ever lived - Jerzy Kukuczka.
On the 24 October 1989 he fell to his death attempting to climb the unclimbed South Face of Llotse..

All hail Jerzy

jerzy-kukuczka-katowice-graffiti1.jpg


That long! Great climber and hard as nails but my vote goes to Rheinhold Messner.
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Re: 25years later...the legend lives on

Postby xslawekx » Fri Oct 24, 2014 6:46 pm

Messner is, undoubtedly, a mountaineering legend. He didn't have to work in a factory and make his own climbing equipment, though (early days of Polish Himalayan expeditions). He also didn't have to climb many bureaucratic mountains to be even able to leave his country in order to go on an expedition.

Kukuczka - new routes, first solo ascent, first winter ascents in the times when no-one else even dreamed of going into Himalaya in winter..
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Re: 25years later...the legend lives on

Postby CharlesT » Fri Oct 24, 2014 7:20 pm

Aye, it's a bit of an arid debate, they're both great climbers and I always liked the description of Kukuczka as a "mental rhinoceros". My other candidate would be Kurt Diemberger (two first ascents of 8000 metre peaks). This thread coukd run for months. :lol:
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Re: 25years later...the legend lives on

Postby xslawekx » Fri Oct 24, 2014 7:30 pm

yeah...let's just agree to disagree :crazy:

Can't wait for the winter to come...
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Re: 25years later...the legend lives on

Postby colgregg » Fri Oct 24, 2014 7:36 pm

I don't want to sound flippant here but if he was the greatest surely he'd still be alive today.
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Re: 25years later...the legend lives on

Postby Moriarty » Sat Oct 25, 2014 9:57 am

colgregg wrote:I don't want to sound flippant here but if he was the greatest surely he'd still be alive today.

Being born in 1948 there would be no guarantee about that.

You might argue that James Cook was one of the greatest European explorers of all time - whether he'd died in Hawaii or lived on he'd still be dead today.
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Re: 25years later...the legend lives on

Postby electricfly » Sat Oct 25, 2014 12:03 pm

I think what colgregg is saying is...

...you can't really be described as the greatest at something if while doing that something you get yourself killed.

You wouldn't expect to hang onto the title of "World's Greatest Lion-Tamer" if you were eaten by a lion. :roll:
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Re: 25years later...the legend lives on

Postby colgregg » Sat Oct 25, 2014 12:26 pm

As electrify said. That was my meaning and as I said it was a flippant remark. Having read about his achievements he did some exceptional climbs.
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Re: 25years later...the legend lives on

Postby Moriarty » Sat Oct 25, 2014 12:35 pm

electricfly wrote:I think what colgregg is saying is...

...you can't really be described as the greatest at something if while doing that something you get yourself killed.

You wouldn't expect to hang onto the title of "World's Greatest Lion-Tamer" if you were eaten by a lion. :roll:


I don't really engage much in the mountaineering history side of things.

However I think there is a certain cachet given to those that push the envelope (sometimes too far).

Or in terms of your lion tamer metaphor I guess it would be the question as to whether the "World's Greatest Lion-Tamer" was the person that tamed a pride of 40 wild lions, but was eaten trying to do 50............or whether it was the person that tamed a pride of 35 and said that was enough.

Who knows. :roll:
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Re: 25years later...the legend lives on

Postby xslawekx » Sat Oct 25, 2014 4:14 pm

I've written 'the greatest' 'cause that's my personal view, taking into consideration his achievements..


"He was the second climber, after media star Reinhold Messner, to climb all 14 mountains in the Himalayan rosary of 8000-meter peaks. Unlike Messner's great accomplishment, the routes Kukuczka chose on the Himalayan giants were usually original, many of them first ascents and often done in the grip of winter wind and cold.
In an era in Poland where even the most basic foods were scarce, Kukuczka was able successfully to mount and equip numerous ventures to the far-flung reaches of the world. Usually pressed for cash and equipment, he painted factory chimneys to earn precious zlotys to finance his mountaineering dreams. Although not always successful (he was "brought to his knees" by altitude illness on Denali), Kukuczka pursued his dreams on a budget a fraction of what most Western climbers enjoy. His source of drive was not the flash and fame that many highly regarded climbers today thrive on but rather the challenge of climbing the great mountains. Although a devoted husband and father, he was most at home in the big mountains, many times alone." - Gary Ruggera, “American Alpine Journal” 1993

In my opinion, it is what you've achieved or/and are capable of doing, that defines your greatness. For example, Alex Honnold is thought to be the best free solo climber in the world. He's 23, still alive and has soloed some outrageous routes. Even if he dies doing what he does, there is no way you could say, he's not that good after all - he got himself killed. It is because no-one else has got the balls or skills to do it...
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Re: 25years later...the legend lives on

Postby CharlesT » Sat Oct 25, 2014 5:20 pm

My memory is a bit hazy but wasn't Kukuczka's death as a result of equipment failure - snapped rope?

And in another field Ayrton Senna is widely regarded as the greatest F1 driver of all time and he died as a result of a racing accident.
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Re: 25years later...the legend lives on

Postby xslawekx » Sat Oct 25, 2014 5:28 pm

Yes Charles, you're right.
It was a secondhand 6mm transport rope picked up at a market in Kathmandu.
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Re: 25years later...the legend lives on

Postby Dan Scheer » Sat Oct 25, 2014 9:39 pm

I think Ed Viesturs has to be one of my favourite mountaineers, his accomplishments may not rival some of the people mentionned here, but I like his attitude towards climbing: "Getting to the top is optional. Getting down is mandatory"

It's such a shame when people with such an incredible talent die because of events outside of their control, at the same time though I can't help but think that there are worse way to go than dying while doing what you love the most! Nothing scares me more than spending my last few days/weeks in a hospital bed ...
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