free to be able to rate and comment on reports (as well as access 1:25000 mapping).
Last day on Orkney, and the forecast promised another bright morning before possible heavy showers in the afternoon. for once we headed east out of Kirkwall, past the airport and to Deerness, at the northeast end of the Mainland. All seemed well on the journey and as we arrived at the car park, but that didn't last long. A number of large flies, and smaller midges, began to accumulate around us and the car as boots were laced up. Leaving the car park for a wander around Mull Head (and an extension to the Covenanters Memorial), they inevitably followed.
It was a cloudy, still morning - perfect for midges, which truth be told we hadn't really thought about encountering on Orkney. The track at the beginning was very boggy, with a bypass path meandering about at the side past the worst bits. This made progress slow, helping the midges keep up. The larger flies were worse however, forever just within our sightlines, coming right up to our faces with a loud buzzing whine on every approach.
Near East Denwick the track finally changed direction and a welcome light breeze appeared, scattering the midges. It wasn't enough to blow away the larger flies though, which had multiplied and continued their explorations unabated. By now they'd grown in boldness and were continually trying to land on us - particularly on foreheads and noses. Horrible - makes me feel all itchy just writing about it...
There wasn't much to see here either, aside from these interesting birds:
Soon, about fifty flies and two very uncomfortable tourists arrived at The Gloup, after a couple of kilometres which probably qualifies as the worst half-hour's walk I've ever experienced. Of course, the most ideal viewpoint for the collapsed sea cave was directly into the sun... not that we wanted to stop for too long with all the flies...
Just beyond The Gloup we headed out to the extremity of a small headland, picking up just enough of a stronger breeze to get rid of most of the flies... phew!
Looking south:
Determined to actually enjoy some of this walk, we headed north along the good coast path, blue sky beginning to break through above. A couple of flies were still in our vicinity, but compared with earlier it was much better! The Brough of Deerness was the next landmark - a very attractive headland - nearly a stack - with a steep path hugging the side of a cliff to gain access, and surrounded by a couple of beautiful sheltered coves.
Looking north from the Brough:
We explored the Brough, which also features remains of a Viking settlement, before returning down the cliff and back up to the mainland. From here, we continued north along the coast towards Mull Head. Rounding a narrow geo near Howan Lickan (a strange moaning sound was being created here by the sea swell inside the geo):
Strong tidal currents were rushing past the headland, which had good views towards the other islands:
Soon the Covenanters Memorial was visible on the horizon, but it looked a long way away. It was getting uncomfortably warm in the strong sunshine and light breeze, despite the relatively low air temperature, and we were wearing excessively warm clothing. The path deteriorated and became overgrown in places, passing successive fields which set off my hayfever
just one of those days!
The Covenanters Memorial was an impressive, but sobering tower - reading the signboard tells you why.
Beyond, it was another kilometre back inland on a good track to the start. Lots to see on this walk, but uncomfortable today for a variety of reasons! Never mind...
The showers missed us in the afternoon (although we could see them in the surrounding skies), so here are a few sunny pics from Kirkwall:
Goodbye Orkney, until next time!
Orkney 2015Previous day: Sacquoy Head, Rousay:
http://www.walkhighlands.co.uk/Forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=55898Churchill Barriers on the way home:
