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It was one of those days with a frisson of uncertainty. MWIS had predicted 80% cloud free hills for NW then changed its mind and dropped to 30%. We considered switching hills to one further east (as east was set to be blue skies and wall to wall sunshine) but BBC Weather was giving full sun for Ullapool so we stuck with our plan. It looked like this was the right decision when we first saw Cul Beag from the road and it was suggested I should stop the car so Moira could take this photo.
It shows the profile of the route over Meall Dearg, down to the col and up Cul Beag and my variation on that in descent contouring round Meall Dearg rather than climbing it again!
Stac Pollaidh and Cul Beag from the drive north
We parked in the space opposite the south end of the loop of old road and headed along it for about 300m before turning left onto a muddy vehicle track.
Our target for the day - Cul Beag
Cul Mor reflected in Lochan Fada - pity I didn't get it before the dogs made ripples!
From this point on to where the path crosses the post and wire fence and disappears into the moorland heading for Meall Dearg it was muddy, soggy, squelchy. Would not like to walk this route after a prolonged period of rain.
An hour into the walk the blue sky had changed to dark cloud with sun on An Teallach away to the south
We picked our way over heather and tussocky grass, dodging the pools of bog, to the base of Meall Dearg and started climbing the grassy slopes which were steep enough to require a bit of turf clutching from time to time. We veered south a bit and I began contouring the south side wondering if there was an easy way round but when I lost sight of Moira I turned back looking for her. Wondering where she'd disappeared to I got the dogs to stop on a nice pancake rock for a photo but Tess wasn't for posing on that one and chose her own!
Old dogs having a rest
It was only later when I got home and looked at the photos on the computer screen I spotted Moira's tiny figure on the skyline! A few minutes later I spotted her so headed up and we walked across the summit area with attractive outcrops of sandstone rock until Cul Beag came into view.
Jack leading the way, old pro that he is
Down to the col
Lochan Uaine
The dogs had a dip and we walked round the north end of the lochan before starting the climb up Cul Beag which was easier going than up Meall Dearg, helped by the solifluction terraces which gave respite from the steepness.
Climbing Cul Beag
Looking back at Meall Dearg
Keeping near to the cliffs on the north side there was a sudden wow moment seeing down to the lochs stretching west.
North to Suilven and Cul Mor
Spectacular skies to the south
Zoomed to An Teallach and Loch Broom
Moira at Cul Beag summit
Panorama west from Loch Lurgainn to Stac Pollaidh to Loch Sionascaig (M's pic)
We were sitting at the foot of the cairn having lunch when a large bird rose up from the rocks a few feet west of us. Because I'm used to seeing ravens around summits that was my immediate thought but when I saw the massive wing span and the way it soared above us I didn't think it was a raven.
Is this an eagle and is it a golden or a white tail? (M's pic)
As if that wasn't excitement enough, when I stood up I noticed we had company of a more mystical kind - my first ever Brocken spectre! I read somewhere that someone got such a fright seeing this he'd fallen to his death and I imagine if you didn't know about the phenomenon and were of a superstitious disposition it could be a bit unnerving. But we were just very chuffed to see our reflection in the cloud with the halo round it!
Brocken spectre (and I wish I'd brought my good camera)
My knees had been twinging so I suggested to Moira we could contour round Meall Dearg rather than go over it on the return. It wasn't so much the ascent I wanted to avoid but the steep descent off the east side. Walkhighlands advised against bypassing on the boggy ground to the south so my plan was to contour round about two thirds of the way down. I looked at the map and could see no obstacles so decided to go for it. Moira felt she would prefer to go over the top so we agreed to meet at the base of the hill on the east side.
Moira heading for her reascent of Meall Dearg
The dogs wondering what I'm playing at
Lochan Uaine from the south side
I took a line to the south of the lochan and headed down from the col before starting my traverse round the side of the hill. After the warning I expected it to be wet but it was amazingly dry and I found it fairly easy walking.
Contouring Meall Dearg
When I reached the east side of the hill I could see the path heading over the moor towards the fence so looked for a prominent rocky area in that direction to park myself so I'd be easily visible (or so I thought). I had a good look at the east side of Meall Dearg, couldn't see anyone so settled down and finished off my flask of coffee. I'd been sitting there about 10 minutes still scanning the hillside, trying to decide if a particular rock might be Moira and wishing she wasn't dressed in black when my phone beeped. It was a text from herself asking where I was as she was at the bottom of the hill and couldn't see me.
It turned out she'd reached the bottom of the hill 5 minutes after I had but had come down further round to the north side of the hill and there was a knoll between us. Once she stood up and moved a bit she could see me perched on my rocky platform and we then started the soggy walk back over the lumpy terrain to the wire fence, the lochan and the car. That was the most wearisome part of the day for me as Moira had a deadline to get back for and as the driver I felt responsible not to let her be late!
South to the dying embers of the sun and it's only 4.15. (M's pic)
We didn't get the chocolate box blue skies and sunshine they had further east but we did get an amazingly atmospheric day of shifting clouds, rays of hazy sunshine and that wonderful light effect that comes from a low sun later in the year. It was also remarkably mild for November - I only had on two layers and didn't even need my jacket sitting at the summit.
And Moira made it back in time for food and a shower before her evening appointment.
