free to be able to rate and comment on reports (as well as access 1:25000 mapping).
Reinhold Messner probably never climbed the little pile of Stac Pollaidh, but if he did, I'm sure he would've insisted on doing it firstly without bottled oxygen (easy), and secondly to the true summit (not so easy)
With a little bit of help, Euan and I achieved both on an evening which will live long in the memory, proving that a mountain's height or the effort required to climb it is not always in proportion to the reward it bestows upon you.
Coming quickly off of Ben Wyvis, driving towards Ullapool the sky started to clear of clouds and, as the strange jarring shapes of the mountains of this area became fully visible, it was clear we were in for a treat. Layers of atmosphere a brilliant blue above, the air was warm but for a occasionally bracing breeze, 'the little weirdo' as I have seen it called, standing above us from the car park.
Sgorr Tuath from the road by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
P1020374 by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
The path leading off to the right below the lower side of Stac Pollaidh's ridge ascends quickly, and we were sweating and breathing heavily until, thankfully, shade was reached behind the mountain. Quite suddenly, Cul Mor, Canisp and Suilven appeared in brilliant technicolour above the myriad of small lochs so familiar to Assynt. Amazing.
P1020378 by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
Cul Mor by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
Suilven by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
Euan by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
Me by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
Again, at once when the ridge is reached, my breath was taken away by views in all directions, to the sea in the west, Coigach to the south, and the stunning hills to the east and north. We took turns walking the (very dodgy) path and up a little cleft to the most easterly point of the ridge, getting some nice long shots with a sense of scale.
P1020394 by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
P1020397 by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
to sea by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
P1020404 by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
P1020406 by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
euan and cul beag by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
P1020412 by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
suilven, canisp and loch sionascaig by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
An Teallach? by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
When we returned to our bags at the first cairn, we had been joined by a group of 4 people, who started in the direction of the 'true' summit, looking back suggestively at us. We had not really thought about doing the full ridge, WH had suggested it was perhaps too advanced for novices like us. Eventually, one of the group asked us if we were coming up, and helpfully said we could follow them. My decision was made, but Euan, who has been known to suffer from vertigo in his latter years, seemed unsure. We decided if there were any parts beyond our capabilities, we would turn back.
The next 30 minutes was some of the most fun I have ever had on the hills
- First, shimmying up a chimney, then traversing across, around and over various boulders for around 500m, before finally going around the final tower and squeezing up and through an awkward gap to the summit proper. Congratulated by our interim guides, the views were ample reward, and despite Euan's sweaty palms, he was happy to admit it was worth it.
P1020418 by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
First chimney by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
dodgy bit by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
tight squeeze by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
loch lurgainn and cul beag by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
true summit by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
P1020440 by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
We chatted for about 15 minutes with the family from nearby, who had climbed up here countless times, before thoughts turned to the return route and getting to Inchnadamph for dinner and a well-deserved beer. The return over the ridge was more difficult to navigate and get back to our bags, particularly reversing down the chimney, where one wrong foot could have spelled disaster. Descending then back the way we came in the shade, we then took a left round the other side to complete the circuit. Our legs would not thank us for 20K and 2000m of ascent in one day in the morning, but this was but a distant thought as darkness descended, wine flowed, and three more days of the same lay ahead
chimney descent by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
P1020445 by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
P1020451 by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
