This fine circuit starts at Achnacroish, the 'capital' of the beautiful island of Lismore and landing point for the Oban car ferry. It follows sections of both the southeast and northwest coastline of the island and offers wonderful views as well as a cafe at the half way point.
Summary
First section of path can be boggy but the rest of the walk follows tracks and minor roads. A short section of track at Salen can be impassable at very high tides.
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1. Heading up from the pier in Achnacroish, turn right along a track that runs in front of a row of houses. It seems to end at a white cottage but the path actually goes through the gate and past the front of the cottages, bearing right at the far end to reach a kissing gate in the corner of the last garden. This is the start of a section of grassy coastal path; it has superb views over to the mountains on the mainland but is boggy underfoot at times.
2. Soon the path reaches a huge cross. This is a memorial to Waverley Arthur Cameron, the son of the man who founded the Oban Times. Waverley's yacht foundered off the coast nearby and he was drowned. Go through the gate to reach the memorial and then follow the path, crossing a small stream and eventually passing just above a white cottage on the coast. Bear left beyond the cottage; the ruin on the right is a former Flax Mill. Continue up to gain the end of a tarmac road beside a house, and head up the road.
3. The road climbs slightly above Loch Baile a' Ghobhainn and reaches the 'main' island road at a t-junction. Turn left here; almost immediately on the right is an old heather-thatched cottage and a modern turf-roofed building; between them these are Lismore's cafe and heritage centre. After enjoying a cake, continue along the road. After a little less than a kilometre it passes the shop; continue, ignoring a track on the right, until a second track on the right goes off between two white cottages. It has a road sign for 'Salen' but no tarmac surface. Follow it as it swings left behind the cottages, running parallel to the other road for a distance, before swinging right and passing through another gate.
4. The track - with a grassy strip down the middle - swings left once more and slowly slopes down onto the northwest coast of the island. There's some ruined cottages over to the right with some rather photogenic tree-clad rocky outcrops. A few steps further and there is a large and well-preserved stone built lime kiln, backed by old limestone quarries and with a boat landing stage nearby.
5. Production of lime for fertiliser was a major industry here from the late eighteenth century, and by the 1850s there were 24 boats shipping lime, alternating with slates from Ballachulish. Production ceased in 1934 and today the scene is both peaceful and beautiful. The track now passes through a gate and then heads round the shore, fording a small stream; there is a short section that is impassable if the tide is very high. Beyond this it climbs gently, passing just to the left of a wonderfully situated whitewashed house, and on up the hill to meet the tarmac road.
6. Turn left here and follow the road around several bends for around a kilometre until it meets the island's 'main' road at another t-junction. Turn left ahead here, and then right at the next junction to follow the road back to Achnacroish, with great views of mighty Beinn Sgulaird ahead.
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