This enjoyable outing explores the northern half of lovely Lismore, including a visit to the 13th century ruins of Castle Coeffin, and the iron age broch of Tirefour Castle. The going is quite rough but there is the opportunity to visit a cafe and heritage centre at half way!
Summary
Rough walking with some very boggy stretches and no clear path.
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1. The walk begins from the ferry pier at Point, at the northern end of Lismore, easily reached by the passenger ferry from Port Appin. Begin the walk by turning right as you leave the slipway, crossing the grass beside the pebble beach and ascending a little to continue round the coastline above the low rocks that drop to the sea. The faint grassy path soon reaches a stile in a fence. There are stunning views across the water, whether to the Morvern and Ardnamurchan peninsulas, or towards Ben Nevis directly up the loch. Continue round the coast on a grassy shelf running beneath low cliffs, high above the water. The path soon crosses another stile to reach Port Ainnean, a pebbly bay. Pass round the bay but as the coastline starts to become craggy once more bear diagonally left up a grassy slope towards a gap in a drystone dyke - look for the marker post.
2. The route runs right beside a large shakehole - a hole in the ground that is characteristic of limestone countryside. Lismore is largely composed of limestone, quite rare in the Scottish Highlands. Pass through the gap in the wall and continue ahead, keeping an eye out for another marker post, to reach a gap in a second boundary (once a wall, now mostly a grassy mound), between two fenceposts. Once passing between these turn right and follow the coastline above the low cliffs. Eventually this slopes down and a track coming in from the left is joined. Turn right and follow the track down to the sea, turning left through the gate once close by the shore. The track leads past an old lime kiln, another sign of the limestone rock; lime is perfect for neutralising the acid peat soils of other parts of the Highlands and Lismore once produced great quantities of it.
3. Continue past the kiln to Port Ramsay - a beautiful group of terraced white-washed cottages and as peaceful a settlement as one could imagine. The village dates back to around 1800 to provide homes for those working in the lime and fishing industries. Turn left at the telephone box and then immediately right onto a track which heads towards Fennachrochan. When this forks near a white bungalow take the right fork, passing below the garden. Continue past the several houses of Fennachrochan until the track dog-legs left through a gate. Rather than continuing on the track to the right past a wooden cabin, continue straight ahead on a very faint track with a fence on the left and a low hill on the right. Contour the slope to the southwest and continue across the pasture land to a drystone wall. Don't head through the gate in this but instead turn right and follow the wall, passing through a gate and crossing some very boggy ground as you descend towards the coast.
4. When you reach a wooden stile over the wall, just short of the coastline, turn left over it. The walk continues along the coastline beneath broken cliffs, soon crossing another site. A small bay is soon reached with some ruined dwellings; a valley runs southwest inland from here. Continue the walk by heading up the left edge of the valley, enclosed by a steep wooded slope on the left and boggy in the bottom. Half way along a choice can be made; you can either continue up the valley and bear right across boggy ground to reach the coast, and follow this for a little over a kilometre of rough going to Castle Coeffin, or you can bear left up the obvious ramp-like route. This second option is easier; ascend the ramp, passing through a gate at the top, and once above the steep section continue across the easy pastures above the escarpment. When the route is blocked by a drystone wall follow it to the left to reach a stile. Cross this and then head slightly downhill, keeping just left of some small limestone outcrops. Continue through a gap in another wall to reach a track, and turn right down this.
5. The track soon has a view of the evocative ruins of Castle Coeffin. Follow it downhill, keeping left through a gate to head to the castle. Built in the 13th century by Clan MacDougall, it has a fine position, with a view along the coast to distant Achandun Castle. After enjoying the ruins, return up the track and follow it to the 'main' tarmac road. Turn right here and follow the road to a junction with a left turn signed for 'Balnagowan'. The walk goes left down this road, but many walkers will want to make the short detour to visit the turf-roofed cafe and heritage centre visible ahead on the right. If you don't consume too make cakes, return and head down that Balnagowan road. Continue along it for almost a kilometre, passing Loch Baile a'Ghobhainn. Before reaching Balnagowan a path goes off to the right and another (faint and grassy) to the left. Head left across the field and then turn left to head to continue between a drystone wall and a stream. After a short distance go through the gate on the right but continue in the same general direction to reach another gate. This gives access to Coille nam Bard, a ruined township.
6. From the township take the grassy track that swings sharp right and then back left up the low ridge. The walk now continues along the ridge in a northeastern direction, crossing a drystone dyke along the way. There is no real path on this section but the views to the mainland are fabulous and the round broch at Tirefour is visible ahead atop its grassy mound. Continue along the rough ridge to an area of old stone ruins. Bear right and pass around the fenced field to the right before heading up the hill to Castle Tirefour. This iron-age broch dates back 2000 years; once the walls would have been 15 metres high as well as 3 metres thick. The spectacular setting adds greatly it its appeal.
7. From the broch descend steeply northwest, aiming for a gate on a minor road. Turn right along the road and follow it as it heads to Baileouchdarach and then climbs uphill, passing through two gates. When it reaches a t-junction with the 'main' island road, turn right. The road now leads back in around 3km to Point, with excellent views along the way.
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