The crossing of Rannoch Moor is one of the West Highland Way's classic stages as it follows the line of an old military route across this vast and desolate wilderness. If the weather is kind then the mountains views are stunning; the fit could continue to Kinlochleven.
Summary
Good tracks; easy walking in fine weather but very exposed if conditions are poor.
Terrain
Users'
rating
None to Inveroran; the A82 is served by Citylink buses between Glasgow and Fort William.
Open Traveline Scotland
Public transport
1. Head west along the minor road from Inveroran; it soon bends to the right and leads to Victoria Bridge. Continue past Forest Lodge, the last building you will see for over 14.5km. Rannoch Moor is one of Britain's largest wild places with virtually no shelter. In calm conditions it's a deceptively easy walk, but stormy weather can catch out the unwary. Be well-equipped, and don't stray from the track: in places you could sink into the peat bog.
Photo © Jim Barton; CCSA licence
2. Climb a low stile beyond Forest Lodge and follow the splendid old parliamentary road, in places wider than the A8005, and with a sound surface. After a steady climb alongside a plantation you pass a reedy lochan on the right. Soon after, you reach Ba Bridge, roughly half-way to Kings House. The mountain ranges on the left are those of the Black Mount, with Stob Ghabhar and Creise amongst the summits. The river Ba runs underneath the bridge through a small gorge of red granite slabs.
Photo © Walter Baxter; CCSA licence
3. 1.5km further on you reach a path leading to the ruins of Ba Cottage on your left, a possible picnic site. The way curves around the lower slopes of Meall a'Bhuiridh, within 1.5km reaching a high point of 450m, marked by a cairn on the left. Here begins the 4.5km descent to Kings House.
Photo © iarocu; CCSA licence
4. The most photographed mountain on the West Highland Way now comes into view, Buachaille Etive Mor the 'great herdsman' guarding the junction of Glen Etive and Glencoe. Its steep faces are a paradise for rock-climbers but it is very popular amongst competent hill walkers too. Shortly, look for the chairlift of the Glencoe Ski Centre up to your left. A minor road is met at Blackrock cottage; turn right here.
5. Follow the tarmac to reach the A82 and cross it with care, continuing to reach the Kings House Hotel, one of Scotland's oldest licensed inns. Built in the seventeenth century, it was used after the Battle of Culloden (1746) as a barracks for the troops of King George III; hence the name. Associated with salt-smuggling and cattle-droving, it was also, like the Inveroran at the start of this stage, written about by Dorothy Wordsworth in 1803. There is camping nearby. From here, the views of the Buachaille are even more impressive than before.
Photo © Anne Burgess; CCSA licence
Route description is quoted by permission from The West Highland Way © Rucksack Readers 2008.
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