The Isle of Luing was once the centre of a slate quarrying industry. This circular walk explores the remains of the industry on a now quiet coastline, passing through the delightful village of Cullipool.
Summary
Some pathless and wet grassy coastline with one short section across awkward boulders, which cut be impossible at high tide. Much of the rest of the walk follows minor roads.
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1. The Isle of Luing is reached by a short hop on the regular ferry from North Cuan on the neigbouring Isle of Seil (which is connected to the mainland by a bridge). The walk begins along the track which heads along the coast, starting immediately to the right of the ferry waiting room. Follow the track until it ends at a gate; pass through this and continue on a faint trod, often wet, keeping close to the coastline. Giant pylons, one each side of the narrows, carry electric to Luing here.
2. Soon a clearer section of path is joined, passing between a tiny lochan and the coast to reach an old slate ruin, with discarded pieces of slate littered all around. To the left is the heavily-quarried escarpment, complete with levels (stay away from these), whilst ahead the houses of Easdale and Ellenabeich can clearly be seen. Continue past another building, picking up the faint remains of a track and following it to the bay at Port Mary. Here a modern farm track heads southeast inland; ignore this and instead stick to the grassy coastline beneath the escarpment.
3. The coastline is soon almost blocked by a natural stone dyke running from the cliffs to the sea. Continue the walk by crossing a stile at the left edge of this dyke, beneath the cliff - reaching it involves crossing some wet ground. On the far side, head diagonally back to the coastline. The space between the cliffs and the sea narrows and soon an area is reached where the old quarry route around the coast has collapsed into the sea. Care is needed here to descend the broken rocks and cross the boulders before climbing back up to the grassy track beneath the cliff. The route now continues more easily to Cullipool past more disused quarries; there are good views across to Scarba and the Garvellachs as well as the southern end of Mull.
4. Cullipool was once the home of the slate workers, with the small pier beyond being used to load the slates onto boats, whilst topsoil was brought to the village as ballast. Today it is a picturesque huddle of single-storey whitewashed cottages with a fine location overlooking the Sound of Lorn; protected as a conservation village. Turn right by the telephone box to follow the road out of the village, continuing round the coast before heading inland past the island's shop.
5. Follow the road to reach a t-junction by the fire station. Turn left here to follow the road back towards the ferry pier. After cresting a small hill there are good views over to the right over the Isle of Torsa. Continue on the road back down to the pier, from where the ferry will take you back to North Cuan.
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