This superb circuit explores the southern half of the beautiful Isle of Kerrera. Easily reached by a short ferry ridge from just south of Oban, the walk has fine views out to other islands and visits the well-preserved and wonderfully atmospheric remains of Gylen Castle.
Summary
Mostly on tracks, boggy at times; grassy but wet path to visit the Castle.
Terrain
NM830286
Grid ref
11km/6.75 miles
Distance
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Gallanach bus from Oban stops at jetty for Kerrera ferry; ferryboat then takes you across to the start of the walk.
Open Traveline Scotland
Public transport
Pronunciation
and meaning
1. The walk begins from the ferry jetty on Kerrera. The crossing takes just five minutes from a pier with parking about 3.5 kilometres south of Oban; alternatively it can be reached on foot using part of the Gallanach walk. From the jetty walk up the track past the phone box and the blue shed with its little map of the island. The track soon forks; take the left branch which is fairly level and keeps near the coast. Follow it round the first wide bay, the 'Big Horseshoe' and ignore the track off right to the farm.
2. The next bay, the Little Horseshoe, is beautifully shaped and backed by three terraced cottages; a delightful spot overlooking the mainland. It then ascends slightly from the bay and forks; take the right hand fork, which is signed for Gylen Castle and the tearooms. It climbs up past the house at Upper Gylen and then descends again to Lower Gylen, which is both a tearoom and a bunkhouse. If you can resist the cakes, turn left immediately before Lower Gylen, going through a gate and down a grassy track to the shore.
3. Follow the signs round the shore towards Gylen castle which can be seen up ahead. Head up the grassy bank on the left before reaching the cliffs beneath the castle itself. Though roofless, it is wonderfully preserved; the carvings on the Oriel window above the entrance are some of the finest surviving from the period it was built. You can enter the castle and ascend the stairs to the first floor where you can see the fireplace, chimney with bread-ovens, and toilet – woe betide anyone on the shore below! The castle was a stronghold of the MacDougall's but fell to a seige in 1647 – although the defences were impregnable, the lack of a water supply led to its eventual downfall – it has been roofless ever since. The castle has recently been restored and enjoys a superb location on the edge of the cliffs, looking over the sea to the mainland and the isles of Seil, Scarba, the Garvallachs and Mull. After exploring it, return back down the grassy ramp to the shore.
4. Cross the pebbly bay to the west and follow the grassy track that heads between two low rocky hills. Continue round the boggy shore to rejoin the track beyond at a gate; turn left along the track to continue the circuit round the island. The track rounds the next bay and then heads inland past a strange upstanding rock to reach the house at Ardmore. Ascend the boggy track that passes just to the left of the house and climbs past its water supply to reach a little lochan and a gate.
5. Beyond the track becomes a grassy path and continues, keeping above the west coast of the island with fine views across to Mull, Lismore and the mountains of Morven. Eventually the path improves to a track once more and curves right to descend to the farmhouse at Barnabuck.
6. Follow the good track that climbs from Barnabuck, giving fine views back as it climbs back over to the east side of the island. The track joins another track (to the north end of the island) shortly after passing a trailer that doubles as a small crafts shop. If you want to extend the walk to make a complete circuit of Kerrera, you can turn left here and follow the Hutcheson's Monument walk. Otherwise turn right and follow the track past several houses to return to the ferry jetty.
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