The seventh section of the Kintyre Way is much tougher than what has gone before. The rewards are the fabulous coastal scenery, views in all directions, and a feeling of remote isolation with no settlements or roads visible for much of the day.
Summary
Farm tracks, moorland with some pathless sections, rough, boggy ground.
Terrain
NR637207
Grid ref
29km/18 miles
Distance
Grade
NB. Hillwalking when there is snow on the hills requires an ice-axe, crampons and winter skills and experience.
Start
Maps
Users'
rating
Both Machrihanish and Southend are served by buses from Campbeltown
Open Traveline Scotland
Public transport
1. This section starts from the small car park at the east end of the beach in the centre of Machrihanish. As you pass the bus turning area look out for the seals which often bask on the rocks just offshore here. Follow the road as it heads inland and climbs uphill. Follow the Kintyre Way markers as the road turns a sharp right corner just past the houses at High Lossit. Keep on the track which leads to Ballygroggan Farm, passing a house on the left and then the car park with information board on the right. Just before you reach the farmhouse bear left on a track uphill to the left of a barn and go through a farm gate. The farm has Highland and Luing Cattle which you are likely to pass on this section which can be muddy near the feeding stations.
2. When the track forks keep left following the blue marker posts and passing some ponds on the left. The distinctive hump passed on the right is the remains of an iron age fortified farmstead, which was probably home to the local chieftain between 2300 and 1200 years ago. When you reach a prominent sign, it is possible to take a loop to the right which takes you to the cliffs above Craigaig, an old settlement down on the coast (see photo). If you have time this is a pleasant but rough detour, adding 30 - 40 minutes to the day and marked by a series of wooden posts. If continuing on the track cross the Craigaig Water and over a stile to climb uphill.
3. The track soon becomes indistinct and crosses heather moorland - keep watching out for the next marker post. After passing between two small hills the route bears right (south west) and crosses a stream to cross rough ground to the head of Innean Glen. Keep to the right where ATV tracks continue ahead and follow the path as it heads towards the coast and descends the glen, crossing to the left side to follow a fence for a section. There is a big square sheepfold on the opposite side. When you reach the stile and bench, continue ahead to a second bench with a fabulous view over the beach at Innean, with the sailor's grave visible on the green turf. You can descend to the sea on this side, although the climb back up adds considerably to the day. Otherwise continue over the stile and up to the sheepfold, keeping to the right side of the wall. This is part of Largiebaan Wildlife Reserve where you have a good chance of spotting birds of prey as well as the colony of wild goats that live here.
4. At first the path follows the remains of a stone wall and then skirts across the flanks of Cnoc Moy but staying much closer to the cliffs and not going to the summit as shown on some OS maps. Keep a sharp eye out for the marker posts which can be hard to spot in an area with many sheep paths and deep bracken in summer. Cross a fence on a stile and climb to the marker post on the clifftop horizon. Soon a big rockface is visible on the cliffs and you start the descent from Binnean Fithich, crossing a stile and then keeping just to the right of a fence before turning left to cross a kissing gate and head inland aiming for a small gap in the trees ahead.
5. Go through the gate and follow the track through the trees and then with open ground on the right turn right over a stile and downhill until a marker post marks where the grassy track curves left. This track passes through another gap in the forestry and then climb a stile next to a gate. When the track meets a clearer track turn right to follow it for 2 km where you turn left over stile before a gate to begint the climb to Remuil Hill. Here the 2006 OS map shows the route continuing on the track, this is wrong and you need to take the hill path which crosses another stile and passes below forestry before another stile and then a steep climb to the right up a swathe cut in the heather to reach the top of the hill.
6. From here there are good views over the surrounding countryside and the path now undulates along the ridge, passing through a kissing gate and keeping to the right of the forestry to reach Amod Hill. At the end of the forestry turn left over a stile and then follow a very boggy path right alongside the fence steeply downhill. The white house at Low Glenadale is clearly visible ahead. At the bottom of the hill, just before you reach the trees turn sharp left to follow a very wet section to the left of a fence. Eventually a stile is reached, turn right to climb it and continue ahead down the field to cross a stream and follow the marker posts across two more stiles before you reach the river. Turn left here and follow the river upstream to Amod farm track. Turn right to cross the river and climb up to the road. Turn right to follow the road down Glen Breakerie. After just over 4km turn right at the junction.
7. Further on, ignore the turning on the right for the Mull of Kintyre and continue along the road to where it meets the coast near lovely Carskey Bay. Now the road swings east, passing beneath the Keil Caves, visible on the left at the foot of a high rockface. To access them, continue a little further along the road to reach an iron gate, which gives access to both the caves and St Columba's footprints. Pass through the gate and turn left to visit the caves. There are several, with names such as the Great Cave, the Piper's Cave and the Hermit's Retreat; the caves were occupied for centuries; Roman pottery was found here, which is rare in Scotland. To the right from the gate are St Columba's Steps; one of these was carved in the nineteenth century and the other is thought to have been used in the coronation ceremonies of ancient Kings. Return to the road from here and continue along it, passing St Columba's chapel.
8. When the road reaches a layby at the start of Dunaverty Bay, go down the steps here and past the public toilets to access this fine sandy beach, with the distinctive outline of Dunaverty Rock at its far end. Continue along the beach to the far end and there climb up to join a track. You can visit Dunaverty Rock - the site of a castle - by turning right and heading through the gate. Beyond the house cross a small concrete retaining wall to access rough path that heads for the gap between Dunaverty Rock and the mainland. From here the now very rough and steep path ascends to the top of Dunaverty - great care is needed and this section can be omitted for safety. Though nothing remains today, Dunaverty was once the site of an important castle, as is evidenced by visits from King Haakon of Norway, Robert the Bruce and James IV. In 1647 it was the site of a shameful massacre. The royalist forces holding the castle succumbed to seige from the covenanters' army, led by General David Leslie. When they surrendered, the covenanters opted to kill all three hundred of them on the instruction of their chaplain. Dunaverty is the end of the Kintyre Way; from here follow the track across the golf course to reach the edge of Southend village.
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