Abernethy Forest is the largest area of natural forest in the UK, directly descended from the ancient forest of Caledon. This fine circuit takes in a huge swathe of magnificent pinewoods, from the heart of the forest right up to the tree line and beyond.
Summary
Mostly good forest tracks, with a couple of kilometres of rough, pathless moorland.
Terrain
NH988159
Grid ref
16km/10 miles
Distance
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1. Forest Lodge is in an isolated position at the heart of the RSPB reserve. There is no tarmac road to it, and reaching it requires some navigation! Take the minor road from Nethybridge that leads through the forest to Loch Garten. Take the first left onto an even smaller tarmac road, towards Tulloch. After about three kilometres, an unsurfaced, unsigned track goes off to the left (with a diamond junction), at NH998166. Turn left down this, soon passing an RSPB 'Welcome to Abernethy' sign. Go slow on the bumpy track to save your suspension, passing the the single house at Cuchanlupe and ignoring a turning on the right for Forest Lodge sawmill. A parking area is reached by an interpretative sign at a junction just short of Forest Lodge. Begin the walk by turning left onto the track signed for Nethy Bridge. This track passes some old buildings used as dog kennels and a small white cottage. Ignore the track on the right to the building of Forest Lodge itself, now used by RSPB staff and volunteers, and continue straight ahead. The track heads downhill and turns right around the edge of a pony field and crosses the river on a bridge.
2. After the bridge follow the wide track as it enters the forest; keep on the main track when it swings right, ignoring a path heading straight on. The track passes through a beautiful area of pines of mixed ages , small lochans, and a few open spaces. At one point the track forks into three, with the widest track going left and a small one going right; keep on the middle track straight on here. The track climbs and swings left and right, and once the trees thin a little there are good views across to the long north-northeast ridge of Cairn Gorm.
3. Continue following the track as it emerges into more open countryside. There is evidence of the success of the RSPB's forest regeneration work here as there are many small pines growing here. Cross a stream at a ford and follow the undulating track on the far side, ignoring a fainter track off to the left. The track crosses the moorland passing a pretty lochan on the left and the remains of stone buildings – once crofts – on the right.
4. The track soon narrows into a faint path and finally peters out completely. Continue across the heather in a straight line to reach the river; the going is fairly tough with deep heather and tussocks on this section, as well as one small stream. When the river is approached the going improves slightly; follow a narrow, faint path upstream through the heather. The path keeps to the higher ground on this side of the river rather than descending to the riverside itself. The route passes a lovely section of small waterfalls and then reaches a wide path and the bridge; turn right and cross the bridge. On the far side is where the near ruinous Bynack Stable, used as an emergency shelter for many years, stood until it finally blew down in a storm and was removed by the RSPB.
5. Follow the stony track away from the river, eventually passing the sign marking the edge of the Abernethy Forest Reserve. Continue until you reach the fork with the path heading down to Glenmore and Loch Morlich. Turn right here to climb gently uphill, re-entering the reserve and passing the bothy at Ryvoan as it crosses the moorland. There are great views to Bynack More across some small lochans. Keep following the track, soon heading into mature pinewoods, and cross a small wooden bridge. Ignore a path backtracking off to the right.
6. The track continues through some lovely pine forest with good views over the mountains to the right, stretching as far as distant Ben Rinnes on a good day. A couple of houses come into view high on the left hand side and you pass a track heading to up towards them. Continue straight ahead as the track goes downhill. At the next fork keep left on the main track and continue through the forest. Turn right at the next junction and shortly the track emerges at the parking area at Forest Lodge.
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