These two rounded, featureless hills are given distinction by their remoteness. In the heart of the wild country between the main Cairngorms and the Atholl ranges, few Munros can match these peaks for the feeling of solitude or open space. The day could be shortened by the use of a mountain bike on the approach.
Summary
Excellent tracks and path on approach. The hills themselves are rounded but with pathless heather and peat-bog at times. Potentially dangerous river crossings.
Terrain
NO063897
Grid ref
42km/26.25 miles
Distance
Grade
Safety warning: Hillwalking when there is snow or ice lying requires ice-axe, crampons and the ability to use them. Some featured routes can become technical ice climbs. Check out our Winter Skills information provided by the Mountaineering Council of Scotland.
Linn of Dee car park
[Map of start point, satnav coords and directions]
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1. Park at the Linn of Dee car park; there is a charge payable to the National Trust for Scotland. Begin the walk by returning to the Linn of Dee road and turning right towards the bridge. As the road bends left to cross the Dee, continue straight ahead onto the track past the barrier - it is signed as a right of way to places such as Blair Atholl (via Glen Tilt) and Kingussie (via Glen Feshie) - both superb long-distance cross-country walks. The track leads past some fine old granny pines, with the beautiful River Dee on the left. Further on the remains of several old townships can be seen dotted around the glen floor.
2. After just short of 5km a path goes off to the right - destined for Corrour Bothy and a back route through to the Lairig Ghru. Our route continues along the track, crossing White Bridge over the Dee. Further on some plantations on the right - felled in part - do detract from the feeling of wildness, and Glen Geldie lacks some of the attractiveness of Glen Tilt or Glen Feshie to which it can lead. However there is no denying this is truly remote country. When the track forks, take the right branch to keep on the north side of the Geldie towards a building - the more open glen across the Geldie is that of the Bynack Burn (and is the through route to Glen Tilt).
3. The building is becoming unstable - it lacks a door and the windows are boarded - but would provide some shelter in an emergency. Continue up the increasingly bleak Glen Geldie. After passing a plantation the track reaches a ford over the Allt Dhaidh Beag, but there is a footbridge just to the right. Further on the Allt Dhaidh Mor has no bridge and usually has a substantial volume of water - it may require a wade (or be impossible in high spate). After a further kilometre ignore a track off to the right (the onward route to Glen Feshie) and instead continue down to reach the ford over the River Geldie itself. This usually will involve getting wet feet - and again could be impassable in spate).
4. After crossing another tributary the track leads to its destination - the ruins of Geldie Lodge. Only a small, doorless shed can provide any shelter here. From here follow the very well-maintained stalkers path that continues west - it winds about initially but provides much easier walking than the rough moors around. The path extends further than is shown on many OS maps; follow it as it eventually descends slightly to reach the Allt a'Chaorainn. Cross this burn and head west up onto the moorland. There is a faint path initially but this is soon lost as the route continues across boggy ground before climbing up onto the north ridge of Carn an Fhidhleir - thankfully now on firmer, stony ground. Head up the ridge to reach the summit cairn - a real prize for any Munro-bagger. Whilst the summit area is quite flat, the views are very extensive.
5. A surprisingly clear path heads SEE along the ridge. It traverses the left flank on the minor bump of point 906m, though this crosses steep grass and it may be easier to continue over the top before heading steeply down to the bealach to the east, a peat mess at 702m. Continue up the far side, through heather at first before more open ground is reached once more. The large summit cairn of An Sgarsoch is a short distance beyond a rocky outcrop, and has good views of the main Cairngorms range.
6. Descend northwards. There is a short steeper section part way down, but otherwise wide open slopes lead towards the bealach with Sgarsoch Bheag. A path avoids this hillock on the west side, eventually swinging round to the right before petering out. Continue northwards to rejoin the excellent stalkers path used on the approach, and turn right to begin the long walk back to the Linn of Dee.
7. The return retraces the outward route. The river crossings seem even more tiring on the long march back, passing the old cottage near the Geldie/Bynack junction and then White Bridge before the final section above the Dee.
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