The bulky mountains of Beinn Bhrotain and Monadh Mor are well out of sight and probably out of mind from Glen Feshie. In good weather, however, they can be climbed via a long high-level traverse over the Moine Mhor plateau.
Summary
This route crosses a vast and featureless plateau at a high altitude, and is extremely exposed to bad weather and difficult to navigate in poor visibility. Given good conditions the going is mostly good apart from the final ascent to Beinn Bhrotain over boulders.
Terrain
NN850985
Grid ref
29km/18 miles
Distance
Grade
NB. Hillwalking when there is snow on the hills requires an ice-axe, crampons and winter skills and experience.
Users'
rating
No public transport
Open Traveline Scotland
Public transport
1. There is a car park on the left about a kilometre short of Achlean on the east side of Glen Feshie. Begin the walk by following the road towards Achlean, but before reaching the farm look out for a large stone (inscribed 'Carn Ban Mor') that indicates the start of a clear path off to the left. Follow this path, which is soon joined by another path from beyond the farm, to reach a gate at the edge of a plantation. Pass through the gate; the path immediately forks; take the main, left hand branch. This climbs quite steeply through the trees before reaching more open ground above; there are stunning views up Glen Feshie over to the right.
2. The path, which is very clear and well worn, climbs around the hillside towards the col between point 783 metres and Carn Ban Mor; it then continues up the ridge, soon joined by an older path which zig-zags up from the slope below. The views back across Badenoch are superb, with a vast array of mountains in clear weather. Creag Meagaidh is easily identified by the deep gash of the Window to the right of its summit. The path comes close to a tiny stream before swinging slightly to the left (ignore the faint trod up beside the stream). Further on is a more obvious path junction, marked by a cairn; take the right hand option here. A left turn is a possible start to an ascent of Sgor Gaoith.
3. The path has now crossed the watershed and there are good views of the Cairngorms giants such as Braeriach and the distinctive flat-topped cone of Cairn Toul. The path heads downhill to the southeast, before climbing towards spot height 957 metres on the OS map; it is worth following uphill to avoid a bog. This is the heart of the Moine Mhor, a great wild plateau that extends for many kilometres; unfortunately the wilderness feel is rather spoiled when an ugly constructed landrover track is reached. Turn left down this track (to the right it heads for Coire Garbhlach and Mullach Clach a'Bhlair). The track descends to the east before ending quite abruptly just short of a grassy ravine carrying the headwaters of the River Eidart. Continue directly across this (or bear left to cross slightly higher up before swinging back) - the burn can usually be crossed using stones. Ascend the bog on the far side and then head ESE to reach the featureless bealach marked as point 876 metres on OS maps. Faint grassy vehicle tracks continue from here to the cairn on the summit of Tom Dubh, one of Britain's remotest tops.
4. Continue east downhill (grassy tyre tracks help avoid the bogs) to reach the Allt Luinneag. This is a surprisingly substantial burn to find at such an altitude, and often requires a paddle across; in spate, it could be difficult or dangerous. On the far side, continue east, now climbing uphill across slopes of grass interspersed with granite rocks, to gain the very broad north ridge of Monadh Mor. Follow this ESE for a kilometre to reach the cairn on the summit. The views are extensive, with the Devil's Point guarding the left side of Glen Geuchasan which stretches away to the east, backed by Deeside and mighty Lochnagar. Beinn Bhrotain is also now visible, a bouldery dome defended with crags on its northern flanks.
5. Check the time at this point as if Beinn Bhrotain is included in the walk it is necessary to return all the way back over Monadh Mor. If going for it a faint path passes to the left of the 1110m top before becoming clear on the steep descent to the narrow bealach at 975 metres. The views to the left here of Glen Geusachan are the most dramatic of the walk. The path continues up the far side for some distance before reaching the vast boulder fields; continue up the boulders directly to reach the summit of Beinn Bhrotain, marked by two large windshelter cairns, one of them protecting a trig point. The views are even more extensive than those from Monadh Mor.
6. If transport is not a problem then it is possible to descend the southeastern flanks and walk out to the Linn of Dee - which is a huge distance from Glen Feshie by road. The quickest return to Glen Feshie is to retrace your steps all the way back, including the reascent of Monadh Mor and across the flanks of Carn Ban Mor. The very fit could extend the route slightly by following the landrover track that eventually descends by Coire Garbhlach, perhaps detouring to the summit of Mullach Clach a'Bhlair. If the weather is kind then the walk back may be greatly enjoyed, but if the wind gets up or the mists roll in, it will be a battle.
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