The climb through Pannanich woods to the viewpoint of Craig Coillich offers a steep hike with good views at the top and a winding woodland descent back to Ballater. Whilst not such a pretty walk as Craigdendarroch, the woods are home to capercaille and red squirrels, and on a clear day the excellent viewpoint makes the climb worthwhile.
Summary
Forestry track and woodland paths that are steep and rocky in places
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Ballater is well served by buses running between Braemar and Aberdeen.
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1. Creag Coillich can be seen from most parts of Ballater, its summit crowned with a radio mast, but it is set back and swathed in dense forestry so doesn't compete in local affections with the better known Craigendarroch. Begin from the car park on the green in the centre of Ballater. Walk along Bridge Street and cross the bridge over the River Dee. When you reach the B976 cross over and follow the signed walk up into the woods opposite. The woods are named after the Pannanich Wells, a spring whose waters were famed for their healing qualities. Ballater grew up to serve the needs of the tourists who flocked to this 'Lourdes of the North'. On entering the wood keep left following the red arrows for the circular walk.
2. Climb up the path as it passes through silver birch and some pine trees. Keep left on the main track uphill. Soon you reach an information board about the Capercaille, a large grouse, (the Gaelic name means, horse of the woods) which is rare but is known to live in these woods. Soon after the sign turn right onto a stony forestry track. This track follows the edge of the pinewood plantation until it turns left to climb up through the forestry.
3. The climb is steep and unrelenting. Keep following the main track marked with red arrows. As it climbs the undergrowth beneath the pines increasingly becomes blaeberry (also known as bilberry and wortleberry in other parts of the UK) which the Capercaille eats the young shoots and berries of.
4. Eventually the track levels out. Soon afterwards you reach the detour to the viewpoint at the top of Craig Coillich. Turn left at the marker post and follow the track the short distance to the mast at the summit. Just beyond the mast is a rocky viewing area with a good view of Ballater below and the surrounding hills. This crag forms the high point in Ballater's annual hillrace, held as part of the local highland games. Retrace your steps back to the main forestry path and turn left to follow a much narrower path.
5. This path meanders through the less uniform woods all the way down the hill. Keep following the marker posts as the path twists and turns. At one point it crosses the direct path that leads up from the road to the summit. After this the path becomes less clear and care should be taken to stay on the path and avoid tree roots and rocks. Eventually the path emerges into a clearing above a forestry track. Descend to the track and turn left to explore the site of Dalmochie camp. Here during the second world war, Canadian lumberjacks lived as they felled trees desperately needed for the war effort. More detail about life at the camp can be found on the three information boards here.
6. Follow the forestry track until you reach the point where you left the track earlier. Turn right downhill here and emerge onto the road. Cross the road and the bridge to return to the centre of Ballater.
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