The climb through Pannanich woods to the viewpoint of Craig Coillich offers a steep hike with good views at the top and a winding woodland descent back to Ballater. Whilst not as scenic as Craigdendarroch, the woods are home to capercaille and red squirrels. Dogs must be kept under tight control and visitors must stick to the paths.
Summary
Forestry track and woodland paths that are steep and rocky in places
Terrain
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Ballater is well served by buses running between Braemar and Aberdeen.
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1. Creag Coillich can be seen from most parts of Ballater, its summit crowned with a radio mast, but it is set back and swathed in dense forestry so doesn't compete in local affections with the better known Craigendarroch. The presence of the endangered Capercaillie means dogs must be kept under tight control and not be allowed to run into the forest as this can disturb the birds and prevent nesting - visitors are also asked to keep to the paths. Begin from the car park on the green in the centre of Ballater. Walk along Bridge Street and cross the bridge over the River Dee. When you reach the B976 cross over and follow the signed walk up into the woods opposite. The woods are named after the Pannanich Wells, a spring whose waters were famed for their healing qualities. Ballater grew up to serve the needs of the tourists who flocked to this 'Lourdes of the North'.
2. Climb up the path as it passes through silver birch and some pine trees. Keep left on the main track uphill. Soon you reach an information board about the Capercaille, a large grouse, (the Gaelic name means, horse of the woods) which is rare but is known to live in these woods. Soon after the sign turn right onto a stony forestry track. This track follows the edge of the pinewood plantation until it turns left to climb up through the forestry.
3. The climb is steep and unrelenting. Keep following the main track. As it climbs the undergrowth beneath the pines increasingly turns into a carpet of blaeberry (also known as bilberry and wortleberry in other parts of the UK) which the Capercaille eats the young shoots and berries of. During the breeding season Capercaille keep their young on the move to avoid foxes and other predators. However this constant movement means they are prone to disturbance from humans and animals in the forest and conservation groups are keen for people to keep to the paths and not to let dogs disturb the undergrowth. Whilst the birds are elusive you may well hear their distinctive "clip-clop" call which earned them their name which means "horse of the woods" in Gaelic.
4. Eventually the track levels out. Soon afterwards you reach the detour to the viewpoint at the top of Craig Coillich. Turn left and follow the track the short distance to the mast at the summit. Just beyond the mast is a rocky viewing area with a good view of Ballater below and the surrounding hills. This crag forms the high point in Ballater's annual hillrace, held as part of the local highland games. Retrace your steps back to the main forestry path and turn left to follow a much narrower path.
5. This path meanders through the less uniform woods all the way down the hill with a number of twists and turns. At one point it crosses the direct path that leads up from the road to the summit, which can be used as a short cut. After this the path becomes less clear and care should be taken to stay on the path and avoid tree roots and rocks. Eventually the path emerges into a clearing above a forestry track. Descend to the track and turn left to explore the site of Dalmochie camp. Here during the second world war, Canadian lumberjacks lived as they felled trees desperately needed for the war effort. More detail about life at the camp can be found on the three information boards here. Follow the forestry track until you reach the point where you left the track earlier. Turn right downhill here and emerge onto the road. Cross the road and the bridge to return to the centre of Ballater.
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