The Lairig Ghru is the best known hill-pass in Scotland. It climbs to an altitude of 835 metres and crosses through the central Cairngorms, one of the wildest areas in the country, and is a true classic walk. It is described from Speyside to Deeside.
Summary
Paths throughout. The Lairig is however a long walk through very remote and exposed terrain where help is a long way off and is often snow-bound in winter. This is a serious walk and hence is given Grade 4.
Terrain
NH915103
Grid ref
30.5km/19 miles
Distance
Grade
NB. Hillwalking when there is snow on the hills requires an ice-axe, crampons and winter skills and experience.
Users'
rating
Bus to Coylumbridge. It is not easy to return to the start by public transport - and
even in summer when there are some services from Deeside to Speyside the bus journey will take a whole day.
Open Traveline Scotland
Public transport
1. There are several possible start points for the Lairig Ghru on Speyside. The most popular these days is to start from the Sugar Bowl car park and to walk through the Chlamain Gap - an awkward boulder field - to gain the pass, but this omits the approach through Rothiemurchus Forest that helps to make the Lairig such a classic. Other possible starts include Whitewell (described as the start of our Braeriach route) or Loch an Eilean, but the classic start is from Coylumbridge. Take the lane next to the entrance to the Rothiemurchus Camp and Caravan Park at Coylumbridge and follow it past a derelict cottage to the Lairig Ghru parking area. From here go through the gate and follow the lane through the first section of Rothiemurchus forest. When you reach a fork take the left hand path, signed for the Lairig Ghru, which starts close to the river and heads through some beautiful mature pinewoods.
2. The track crosses a small bridge, continue ahead crossing a stile next to a gate. The route narrows after a gate in a stone wall. Cross another small bridge and a gate and the path narrows again. Soon you reach the edge of the dense forestry and can see the Cairngorm mountains ahead, with the great cleft of the Lairig Ghru straight ahead, flanked by screes. Continue straight ahead at a junction and after a short while you reach the Iron Bridge, also known as the Cairngorm Club Bridge after the climbers' club who built it in 1912. After just over a kilometre another cross-roads is reached; turn right to continue up towards the Lairig Ghru.
3. The forests are gradually left behind as the path traverses the slopes high above the Allt Druidh. A couple of kilometres further the path descends to the stream and is joined by the path coming over the Chlamain gap from the left, whilst the route to Braeriach goes off to the right. Continue ahead up the v-shaped defile. The great broken cliffs of Lurcher's Crag wall the left side at first, and soon the walls of Sron na Lairig on the right become just as impressive. At the top of the pass, if the weather is clear, the summits of Cairn Toul and the Devil's Point come into view for the first time. Descend to reach the Pools of Dee - one of the two sources of the mighty river that flows to Aberdeen.
Photo ©Julian Thomas, licensed for reuse under Creative Commons Licence.
4. Keep to the left side of the stream on the descent, crossing the foot of the slopes of mighty Ben Macdui, as the branch to the right heads into the great super-corrie of An Garbh Coire. Continue southwards, with terrific views into Garbh Choire on the right - the great rim of the cliffs far above is the route followed later in the walk. After almost four kilometres from the pools the Clach nan Taillear is reached. The name means the Stone of the Tailors and according to local legend it was behind this rock that a group of tailors died in a blizzard when crossing the Lairig as part of a wager. Follow the path for almost another kilometre, passing (and ignoring) the start of a branch path that crosses a bridge over the river Dee to reach lonely Corrour bothy. The bothy is maintained by volunteers from the Mountain Bothy Association; if visiting it please help by keeping the place tidy and carrying out any rubbish; it is also appreciated if you can leave a report on the condition of the bothy at its page on the MBA website. After this junction the path forks; take the left branch that climbs around the southern flanks of Carn a'Mhaim.
Photo ©Graham Ellis, licensed for reuse under Creative Commons Licence.
5. The path slowly curves round to the left and eventually begins to descend once more, with Glen Luibeg ahead. When the Luibeg Burn is reached it is sometimes possible to ford it; more usually, a short detour to the left leads to a footbridge. Once across follow the good path downstream, passing through some fine stands of Scots Pine once more before reaching and crossing the River Derry and arriving at the derelict Derry Lodge. From here follow the vehicle track southeast down Glen Lui.
6. Keep following the clear track until Black Bridge is reached on the right. Cross this and follow the track south on the other side. After a couple more kilometres look out for a good path off to the right. Turn along this, which crosses a wet area using duckboards and finally arrives at the Linn of Dee car park.
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