Tolmount and Tom Buidhe via Loch Callater
Braemar and Ballater
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1. There is a parking area on the A93 on the south side of the bridge over the Callater Burn by Auchallater Farm. The walk begins up the track, which is signed as a public path to Clova – a reminder that this is part of the historic route known as Jock's Road, heading over the hills from Braemar to Glen Clova. Jock's Road has a key place in the history of Scottish Access. When Duncan MacPherson bought the Glen Doll estate in the late nineteenth century he tried to ban all access to the estate. John Winter ('Jock') fought for the right to walk this old drove route; legal action went as far as the House of Lord's and by the time it was finished, both MacPherson and the Scottish Rights of Way Society were bankrupt. It led to the passing of the Scottish Rights of Way Act, the most important piece of legislation for walkers until the more recent Land Reform Act of 2005 granted increased rights to walkers. The track goes through a gate (locked to vehicular traffic) and soon bends to the right to enter the barren lower reaches of Glen Callater. Interest is added by the cascading river alongside the track. Ignore a branch off to the right and stay on the main track, eventually crossing a bridge over the Callater Burn and continuing up the far side of the glen.
2. There are good views back to Ben Avon, identifiable by the line of granite tors along its summit. At one point there is a small quarry on the left and a smaller track going off to the right; continue on the main route. As the fences and buildings at Callater Lodge come into view the track forks again; this time take the left branch. A path goes off to the left by the fence – this is an old stalkers path that leads eventually to Lochnagar; instead pass through the gate and between the decaying lodge and the bothy of Callater Stable. From here the route continues along the line of Jock's Road, but from this point it is a path; cross a small footbridge and then a stile to reach the northern shores of Loch Callater, with Tolmount visible at the head of the glen.
3. The path is well maintained and keeps to the shores of the loch, giving excellent views. Pass the head of the loch and keep on up the glen, crossing several small streams via stepping stones. Once below the steep crags on the left the path becomes wet underfoot, before improving a little as it crosses the rougher ground above the green flats. Further on there are views up into dramatic Corrie Kander high on the other side of the glen; from this point Jock's Road becomes very boggy and hard to follow. Continue up the glen, passing beneath the crags of Creag Leachdach. Beyond these Jock's Road finally begins to climb out of the valley, aiming for the lowest and easiest escape on the eastern side; the climb is quite steep for a few hundred metres.
4. Once the easier gradients of the plateau are reached leave Jock's Road and bear right, contouring round towards Tolmount. The ascent is straightforward, ending at a cairn at 958 metres but set too far back from the craggy north face to have any depth to the view down Glen Callater. Tolmount may be a Munro but it is surrounded by higher peaks on all sides, with Lochnagar and Broad Cairn the most prominent to the northeast, and the most impressive part of the view is the emptiness of the plateau. This is no place to be during a storm, particularly in winter.
5. Tom Buidhe is the pudding of a hill visible across a depression to the south. To reach it, it is easiest to maintain height by bearing right at first and then crossing where there is less descent before curving left to the summit, which is almost the same height as Tolmount at 957m; reaching this second Munro of the day is very easy if conditions are good and usually takes less than thirty minutes. Now you must decide on the return route. The quickest way back is to retrace your steps, skirting the top of Tolmount and heading back down Jock's Road. If conditions are good and you have the energy, there is an alternative which makes the route a circuit (times given for the walk assume the circuit). This heads back towards the bealach with Tolmount at first, then climbing across the slopes of Cairn of Claise, aiming for the bealach between that hill and Carn an Tuirc. Take great care to avoid walking over the precipices that plunge down to Coire Kander; you should be able to find the tumbled remains of a drystone wall and a track at the bealach.
6. Follow the track as it curves round above Coire Kander, a safe distance back from the edge. The Munro summit of Cairn an Tuirc is only a short distance from here and could easily be included in the walk, as could Cairn of Claise with a little more effort. Otherwise keep to the track, passing a cairn and continuing to curve round the corrie. It then turns to the left and begins the descent, being eroded by vehicles in places. Lower down it skirts round a minor hillock before finally descending back to the lower end of Loch Callater and its lodge. Cross the bridge over the river and then rejoin the outward route, following the track back down Glen Callater to the start.
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