Ardnamurchan Point circuit from Portuairk
ARDNAMURCHAN AND THE ROAD TO THE ISLES
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1. The walk begins in Portuairk; there is a car park on the right hand side of the road before it finally zig-zags down to the bay. Start the walk by following the road down these zigzag bends; at the sandy shore there is a t-junction. Turn left here, passing through the scattered houses of Portuairk. At the very end of the road there is a turning area and no parking sign; go through the small pedestrian gate beside this sign. Straight ahead, there is a second gate with a tiny 'footpath to Bay MacNeil' sign; pass through it. Continue along the shore in front of the last house, and immediately beyond turn left up the tree-fringed wide gully. The route from here is marked by occasional wooden posts. Continue up the gully to a water cistern; head uphill to the right here to reach a clearer path continuing uphill above the gully. A short distance up this path is a marker post; just beyond this, look for a much fainter path going off to the right; there is another marker post visible a short distance along it across the moor. There are good views back over Portuairk to the beaches of Sanna beyond.
2. Follow this path which crosses a muddy, flatter area; don't head directly up the hill but instead aim for the gap between the coastal hill and a more prominent hill just inland – there is a path. Once across the flat section, the path becomes grassier as it heads downhill into the little glen. Towards the foot of the glen are the ruins of an old croft house, and views of Ardnamurchan lighthouse at the point. Turn left by the crofthouse, heading over the fence by a stile and marker post.
3. The path soon becomes a grassy track as it heads towards the caravan site seen ahead. Pass through a large iron gate to reach another marker post. It is well worth detouring to the right here to visit MacNeil Bay. This is a very beautiful sandy beach with views out to the lighthouse. Once you've enjoyed the Mediterranean-blue of the water here, return to the track and continue into the caravan site.
4. The track passes through a gate just after the toilets. Beyond the gate it reaches a marker post; turn left uphill here onto a small path which soon crosses a stile. The path continues uphill, eventually passing through a gate to reach the tarmac road. At this point, a decision must be made whether to make a detour to visit the lighthouse, which is two kilometres away along the road to the right; otherwise turn left.
5. If you detour to the lighthouse, simply follow the minor road all the way. The final section winds between stone walls – a traffic light system spares nervous motorists from cars coming the other way! Beyond is the towering lighthouse, which is 36 metres high, and was built in 1849 by Alan Stevenson of the famous Stevenson family of lighthouse builders. During the summer months you can (for a charge) visit an exhibition and ascend the tower for wonderful views of Mull, Coll, Muck, Rum and Eigg. Afterwards, return back along the road to the point reached earlier.
6. Follow the road eastwards for almost two kilometres from the point you originally reached it. Just before a sharp rise in the road go through (or over if locked) a farm gate where a sign marks a 1km path to Portuairk. Follow this grassy path through the bracken uphill, keeping a little distance from the fence on your right. Follow the fence over the crest of the hill and downhill until you reach the corner of the fence. Don't follow the fence but continue straight ahead on an old track for a short distance. Now head diagonally left across the bracken to a stile and gate visible across the field. Go through the gate and head directly downhill to the farm gate where the path meets the road. Go through this gate and turn left to follow the road back to the parking place.
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Route profile
Accommodation links for this area:
Ardnamurchan and the Road to the Isles Hotels and Inns
Ardnamurchan and the Road to the Isles B&B (Bed and Breakfasts)
Self catering cottages in Ardnamurchan and the Road to the Isles
Fort William, Lochaber and Glencoe hostels
