Castle Tioram and the Silver Walk circuit
ARDNAMURCHAN AND THE ROAD TO THE ISLES
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1. Take the minor road to Doirlinn and Castle Tioram; the walk begins from the car park at the end. Begin the walk by following the track (continuation of the road) round the shore, passing through a gate to the sandy beach. The dramatic ruins of Castle Tioram are just offshore to the left; except at high tide, it can be visited by walking across to it on a sandy bar (but keep an eye out for the tide!). The Castle is thought to date from the thirteenth century and was home to the MacRuaris, one of the main branches of the descendants of Somerled, the original Lord of the Isles who first united the Western Highlands and the Hebrides. According to local tradition the castle was built by Amy MacRuari but it is likely she improved an existing structure. The castle is one of the most historically significant castles in the Highlands, as well as being perhaps the most beautiful. This was put in jeopardy recently as the landowner came up with a plan to 'restore' the castle as his private house; following a public enquiry this plan was rejected and it thankfully remains as a haunting ruin. Parts of the castle walls collapsed in the early 1990s but the damage has mostly now been stabilised – hopefully access to the Castle's interior will soon be restored (it is possible to visit the exterior).
2. A wooden post on the idyllic grassy sward just beyond the sand bar marks the start of the 'Silver Walk' – an estate path built in the late nineteenth century, so named due to the discovery of a hoard of Elizabethan coins during its construction. Follow this remarkable path which traverses the vertiginous coastline through the stunningly beautiful woodlands. The path clambers up and down rocky steps and over boulders, soon passing through a cast iron gate. There are great views back to Castle Tioram.
3. The path becomes rougher and boggy in places, but also increasingly dramatic. It descends to the level of the loch and crosses some blocks of stones to keep the route above the level of the tide, before climbing up once more. Further on it is cut out of the rocky cliffs that fall sheer to the sea; iron posts mark where once there was a protective railing. The views across the Loch to the Scots pine-clad island – Eilean an Feidh, with the larger, inhabited Eilean Shona beyond, are constantly changing, and the path itself is fascinating.
4. Continue along the path, which after a particularly boggy section gives better going where it has recently been improved. It passes round the back of a bay, and a little further on a cairn is reached. At this point a path heads uphill to the right through the bracken; turn up here. It soon becomes very boggy as it climbs the hillside, though the route is clear. There are great views back over Loch Moidart.
5. The path climbs across the moor for some distance, passing a large cairn before beginning to descend shortly beyond. A number of small lochans come into view ahead, fringed by pines and firs; when the path forks, take the left branch which winds down to the first lochan. Continue round the right hand side of the water to a path junction by a large tree. Rather than continue round the loch, go straight ahead here uphill on a broader path. This climbs briefly before descending to another, narrower lochan, dammed at the far end with a view of the sea beyond. The path contours round to the right of the lochan to reach the dam.
6. From the dam, the path improves. It follows a small pipeline downhill into a ravine, before crossing the stream and continuing downhill. There are fantastic views ahead of the sea with Eigg, Muck and Coll all visible in clear weather. Continue on the now delightful path downhill through the woods; once down to sea level the path goes through a small gate, passing by a wooden house to reach the road just beyond. Turn right along the road which soon leads back to the start.
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Accommodation links for this area:
Ardnamurchan and the Road to the Isles Hotels and Inns
Ardnamurchan and the Road to the Isles B&B (Bed and Breakfasts)
Self catering cottages in Ardnamurchan and the Road to the Isles
Fort William, Lochaber and Glencoe hostels
