The second section of the Great Glen Way is dominated by the expanse of Loch Lochy. It follows a minor road before reaching a fine section of path beside the loch, before more roadwalking but in beautiful surroundings. There follows a long section of forestry tracks just above the loch.
Summary
Good footpaths, then minor road and finally a long section of forest track; fairly level.
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1. The second stage of the Great Glen Way begins in Gairlochy; there is verge-side parking but a real shortage in the summer. Start the walk by crossing the road bridge over the canal; this bridge can be swung open to allow taller boats to pass through. On the far side, keep on the road and turn right as signed for Loch Arkaig. Keep ahead at the next junction and look out for a Great Glen Way marker on the left that indicates the start of a path that avoids the tarmac by keeping above the road. There are views down to the right of the pepperpot-shaped white beacon that marks where the Caledonian Canal issues into Loch Lochy.
2. The path eventually leads back to the road; head straight across and follow it as it winds through a felled area to reach the tree-clad shore of the loch. Loch Lochy is a large sheet of water and the third deepest loch in Scotland and is said to be the home of Lizzie, a sister of Nessie; there are two Munros on its northern shore which the Great Glen Way passes far beneath. The next section of path, crossing a footbridge, is very attractive through fine woodland close to the waters edge. At one point the path crosses another and heads slightly inland before crossing a bridge and returning to the shores.
3. The beautiful path beside the loch reaches a picnic bench and then crosses several more footbridges before climbing back up to rejoin the road. Turn right and follow the as it curves round and passes the entrance to Achnacarry, once the home of Clan Cameron and now a museum of the clan (the house is a full kilometre along the drive and thus well off-route). The chief in 1746, Donald Cameron, known as 'The Gentle Locheil', fought for Bonnie Prince Charlie at Culloden and became, like him, a fugitive in the Highlands before his eventual escape to France. From a hiding place in the hills he witnessed the burning of the original Achnacarry House by government soldiers.
4. Continue along the public road, passing several houses with attractive views across bays on the loch shore. Cross the bridge over the River Arkaig at Clunes. The Great Glen Way here turns right along a track to reach a forestry car park. It is possible to make a detour of just over a kilometre each way to visit the Eas Chia-aig, a low but picturesque waterfall, before returning to the route. Continuing the Great Glen Way, the route continues on a forest track from the far end of the car park.
5. Where the track forks, keep on the lower track which leads down to the water's edge. The woods here are a mixture of oak, birch, elm, rowan, hazel as well as commercially planted conifers. The track soon passes a hut and seats on the right and follows the contours of the side of the hill as it progresses up the side of Loch Lochy. After passing through an area of tall forestry, an area of cleared forest is reached with views across the Loch to Letterfindlay Lodge Hotel.
6. Another section of forestry is passed through before more mixed woodland with gorse at the side of the track is reached and good views up the Loch. Pass a path leading to a very small (2 tents maximum) wild camping spot and continue on the main track. This area is the habitat of pine martens which you may see, particularly if you are passing at dawn or dusk, however you are more likely to spot their distinctive dark droppings. Eventually an old quarry is passed on the right, after a slight rise turn right, the track to the left provides access to the hills. Go through the gate and follow the rough road behind a couple of chalet sites and then through open farmland.
7. Eventually the road descends to the farm at Kilfinnan. Below the farm is the graveyard of the chiefs of the Macdonnels of Glengarry. The original burial ground now stands under water because the building of the Caledonian Canal raised the water level of the loch, so in the early 1800's the bodies were moved to the current spot. Stay on the road which crosses the burn, with good views to the small marina at the head of the loch. Just as the road starts to rise, turn right into the entrance for some chalets and follow the driveway in front of the chalets and across the head of the loch to the buildings at Laggan Locks. Keep right to pass between the two buidings and emerge at the canalside. Cross the canal on one of the lock gates. To reach the Great Glen Hostel continue along the tow path for just over 1km and follow the hostel signs.
Next stage: Laggan Locks to Fort Augustus
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