This idyllic walk explores some of the fabulous beaches on the northern coast of the Ardnamurchan Peninsula. In good weather, there are great views out to the Small Isles of Muck, Eigg and Rum.
Summary
Rough path, muddy in one or two places between Portuairk and Sanna; then sandy beaches and some pathless grassy moorland around Sanna Point.
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1. The walk begins in Portuairk; there is a car park on the right hand side of the road before it finally zig-zags down to the bay. Start the walk by following the road down these zigzag bends; at the sandy shore there is a t-junction. Most of Portuairk is to the left, but our route turns right along the tarmac road past a couple of houses. At the last cottage, where the track swings right through a gate, take the small footpath on the left past the cottage - there is a small wooden sign indicating 'Sanna'. The grassy path leads to a beautiful sandy inlet where a stream heads down to the sea. The bridges marked on some maps are long gone, but it's easy enough to cross the stream; once across, take the path heading left uphill beside the coast (signed for Sanna) and not the larger path heading right.
2. The path then passes through a gate and descends past a tiny idyllic bolt-hole of a cottage - only accessible on foot - to a second sandy inlet. Cross this and follow the path which heads slightly away from the coast. Ignore the first branch path on the left, but follow the main path as it curves left through the bracken further on. Soon you'll see an eroded stony gully on the right - the path heads up this, and then continues heading uphill, first close to a stream. It then crosses the stream and continues uphill beside (or in) a muddy gully. At the top of the gully, turn left and follow the path back downhill towards the coastline ahead. There is a superb view of Sanna beaches backed by the islands of Muck and Eigg, with mountainous Rum visible beyond Muck on clear days. The path becomes grassy lower down and passes through a pedestrian gate.
3. Once through the gate follow the grassy path to the right. It descends to cross the stream which flows out onto the beach beside a low cliff. Cross the stream and head up the bank on the far side to reach a gate (signed Sanna Bheag House and Machair conservation area). Machair is the gaelic word for the fertile, flower-rich grasslands which back the sandy beaches. Once through the gate, turn left and head across the machair to the fence corner, where there is a stile. Cross this and head onto the large beach beyond. Continue right round the back of this magnificent sandy beach.
4. At the far end of the beach the dunes relent and you can continue easily up onto the grassy promontory in the centre of Sanna bay. Continue on the path across this to reach the smaller northern beach. Keep on the right side of this and head inland towards the lone croft house - aiming for the rickety wooden bridge over the stream in front of the house. Cross the bridge and follow the path to the back of the house; there's a great view over the gardens to the towering lighthouse at Ardnamurchan Point. The next part of the walk is a rough, pathless circuit of the cairns on Sanna Head, which is wet in parts.
5. Veer left, following a faint path through the rough grassland. There are various cairns you can visit in turn on the loop; the best views are from the third cairn on a rocky rise above Sanna Point. This large cairn enjoys a superb outlook over the Small Isles, and along a great sweep of the Ardnamurchan coastline from the lighthouse to the cliffs of Rubha Carrach. You might want to continue round to the next cairn before descending southwards past a well-built sheepfold and making a beeline back to the croft house with the rickety bridge.
6. Cross the bridge once more and this time continue straight ahead to pick up a grassy track beside the little wooden shed. Follow this track, soon reaching a hard-surfaced section, to the large car park in Sanna. From the car park, turn right along another track. This leads to Sanna Bheag house, a large single storey building which was once beautifully thatched but now has a flat roof. Turn right in front of the house and follow the path across the field to the gate which you may remember from earlier in the walk. Go through the gate, cross the stream and then follow the path back uphill the way you came, turning right once you have rounded the knoll. Head back down to the coast and follow the outward route back to Portuairk.
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