Sgor na h-Ulaidh and Meall Lighiche
GLENCOE AND KINLOCHLEVEN
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1. Park a few metres east of bridge over the Allt Gleann Leac na Muidhe, where there is a car park. Sgor na h-Ulaidh is not in view from here; the ridge end of Aonach Dubh a Ghlinne is prominent and the more distant peak to its right is Meall Lighiche. To begin the walk, cross the bridge – carefully as traffic really speeds along here, before turning left on the track signed for Gleann Leac na Muidhe House. Follow the track uphill; after around a kilometre it crosses the stream via a bridge over a small gorge. There are great views of the Aonach Eagach over your left shoulder.
2. The track bends right as it passes a large modern house; a short distance further on it passes a wooden chalet and then a pair of cottages and the farmhouse. Continue on the track, which heads through a farmyard passing to the right of a barn. Continue to a gate at the end of the plantation (cross the stile here to the right); the track ends just beyond. Follow the path which soon comes close to the river. If including Meall Lighiche in the itinerary, you now need to cross it; this is easy enough as long as it isn't in spate just a short distance along where there is an island in the middle. Once across there is a short stretch of boggy ground to cross as you head climb uphill, heading round to the right slightly to gain the start of the steep ridge leading up to Creag Bhan. Continuing up this ridge, there is soon a rocky knobble which appears to block the route; head to the right of this until a grassy gully enables you to climb back onto the ridge. Ascend the steep slopes above, with great views to admire behind as you catch your breath.
3. The slope eases as Creag Bhan is reached, and further on a line of fenceposts is reached at an angle in the ridge. The summit of Meall Lighiche is reached by a fairly short detour from here, turning right and following a path close to the line of fenceposts. The summit cairn, a Corbett at 772 metres, has a terrific all-round view, particularly down Glen Creran to the sea, whilst northwest the twin peaks of Beinn a'Bheithir look magnificent. Return to the point where you met the fenceposts, and this time follow them southeast as they make the descent to Bealach Easan. This descent is steep with a few low tiers of crags to negotiate, but is simple enough compared to the climb the other side, so on the descent have a good look at the slopes leading up to Corr na Beinn opposite to try to pick out the best line. At the bealach there is a gate in the line of fenceposts.
4. On the far side of the bealach the fenceposts climb up directly to the base of high crags, so instead make a rising ascent to the right, a little west of south, to gain the long grassy north-west shoulder of Corr na Beinn you might have picked out on the descent. Continue up this shoulder on very steep grass. Higher up the route heads slightly to the right to ascend a weakness in a rocky band, reaching another grassy slope beyond with a big drop on the right and some crags on the west side of Corr na Beinn ahead. Climb back left here as soon as you can; the gradient begins to ease and the final ascent to Corr na Beinn can be made directly. The ridge will be gained with some relief and not just for the views towards Mull; this ascent route is not suitable for descent as the lines of crags are hard to see from above. Follow the grassy ridge eastwards on a path which then climbs steeply for a short distance and traverses a false summit before reaching the true cairn at last.
5. The cairn at the Munro summit of Sgor na h-Ulaidh is perched on the edge of the northern crags at 994 metres and is a marvellous viewpoint, with Loch Etive and prominent to the south and Ben Nevis rising proudly to the north over scores of lower peaks. The summit itself is riven by a great gully heading down the crags; round the top of this before following the path eastwards for a short distance where it begins the steep descent of the northeast ridge. The upper section of this is very rocky but the zig-zag path eases the going; the ascent to the top of Stob an Fhuarain beyond is more gentle. From this top, descend northwards to the 798 metre bealach on the Aonach Dubh a Ghlinne ridge.
6. From the bealach head directly downhill into Gleann Leac na Muidhe; there is some scree higher up and steep grass lower down where it is possible to cross the stream in several places to find the easiest going. Close to the bottom, the stalkers' path down the glen is joined. Turn right along this, which soon comes alongside the picturesque stream. After just over a kilometre, the outward route is joined where you crossed the river in the morning. Continue straight ahead to the gate to rejoin the track that leads eventually back to the A82.
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