Sgurr na Ciche, Glendessary
LOCH LOCHY, GLEN GARRY AND KNOYDART
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1. The seemingless endless drive along the roller-coaster minor road along Loch Arkaig ends where the public road terminates close to the head of the loch. Parking here is very limited so arrive early (you'll need to for this walk anyway!) - and be careful not to park in the turning area – use verges nearby. Follow the track than is the continuation of the road, forking right at the junction before Strathan. The track keeps to the north side of the River Dessary and leads past Glendessary Farm and then ends at Upper Glendessary.
2. There are two paths continuing from here; take the one which heads uphill to the right. This very old right of way climbs across the hillside towards the top corner of the forestry seen ahead, and then traverses the hills just above the trees. The way crosses some small streams and is very soggy in places. Continue on the path to reach the larger Allt Coire nan Uth. This could be difficult to cross but there is a bridge which is hard to spot at first. Once across, bear off to the right and climb up the steep slopes which become the south ridge of Sgurr nan Coireachan.
Photo ©Bill Copland, licensed for reuse under Creative Commons Licence.
3. The climb is mostly on very steep grass interspersed with rocks and is relentless as well as pathless. Higher up the ridge becomes better defined and the gradient eases giving a pleasant final traverse to the summit of Sgurr nan Coireachan. The small cairn here is at 953 metres, making it the first Munro of the day, and gives a wonderful view to the more rugged mountains ahead. From here, a very steep descent should be made first to the west and then southwest to the Bealach Coire nan Gall.
Photo ©Paul Birrell, licensed for reuse under Creative Commons Licence.
4. Continue on the path, accompanied in parts by a drystone dyke, as it climbs steeply and then begins a traverse of Garbh Chioch Bheag to reach the larger Garbh Chioch Mhor. The going is exceptionally rough with many steep ascents and descents and twists and turns to avoid rocky obstacles. It will probably take longer than expected to reach the cairn on this second Munro. The views along the ridge, particularly down into the corrie on the north, are as wild as it is possible to be in the British Isles.
5. Continue following the wall down steeply down to the bealach below the impressive cone of Sgurr na Ciche. The bealach is known as 'Feadan na Ciche' – the whistle of the breast (after its parent peak), and the wind can certainly tear through here. The ascent ahead looks formidable with much rock but there is a path which winds its way to the left at first before cutting back in zigzags towards the summit. Sgurr na Ciche's cone is the third and highest of the day's Munros and one of the shapeliest summits in Britain. It is one of those mountains that is easily identified in distant views; now you've managed to climb it you should enjoy a magnificent view down the length of Loch Nevis.
6. Return to the last bealach before heading into the gully to the southwest. This soon becomes a gorge-like ravine; its descent is steep and requires some scrambling and great care. Further down the gully opens out once more; continue down to below the steepest ground before bearing left (southeast) across a shoulder of Garbh Chioch Mhor. Continuing in the same direction you should eventually be able to pick up the very boggy path from Sourlies at the head of Loch Nevis to Glendessary.
7. Turn right along this path. The soggy going means that still the walk hasn't got any easier! Further down the glen the path forks; you can either take the right fork, keeping above the forestry to rejoin the outward route. Alternatively you can take the left fork which heads down into the trees. Once this reaches the River Dessary, turn left downriver to eventually reach the end of a forest road. Head down this, which after a kilometre and a half reaches open ground once more.
8. Continue on the track into the next block of forestry. A' Chuil Bothy is just to the north of the track where it enters the trees. Continue through the forest for another four kilometres to a junction with another track; turn left here to cross the river at Strathan and return to the start. If you have to drive back out along Loch Arkaig, take great care as you are certain to be exhausted.
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