Gleann Lichd and Bealach na Sgairne circuit
KINTAIL: GLEN SHIEL AND DORNIE
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1. Park at the National Trust for Scotland Morvich countryside centre, opposite Morvich Caravan Club site. Continue along the road on foot; it is possible to avoid the tarmac by following picturesque paths along the river back just to the left of the road. This path passes through fine woodland. The path comes back onto the road by a junction just before the Kintail Outdoor centre. Turn right onto a track here - where the public footpath sign directs for 'Glen Affric via Gleann Lichd'. Continue along the track up Gleann Lichd. This is a wild, dramatic glen; treeless but with the beautiful river Croe meandering between the steep mountainsides. The north side of the Glen is bounded by Beinn Fhada, whilst on the right are the Five Sisters of Kintail. The peak at the head of the glen is Saileag, which appears impressive from this viewpoint despite being an inconsequential bump on the ridge from any other viewpoint. After six kilometres the track ends at the Edinburgh University Mountaineering Club hut.
2. From the hut, continue on the very clear and well made path, ignoring a branch off to the right and instead crossing the suspension bridge over the Allt an Lapain. The path then crosses an intervening hillock before crossing a second bridge, this time supported on giant wooden beams across the gorge of the Allt Grannda. Once across this bridge, the path begins to climb in earnest, traversing the rocky slopes high above the river. The terrain is very rough but the path is excellent, brilliantly constructed to make the ascent as easy as possible.
3. Higher up, the path swings left as the gorge bends round. The next section is really dramatic as the path contours round the slopes high above a deep basin, whilst waterfalls tumble down into the depths, the main fall on the Allt Grannda being particularly impressive. Once round the basin, the path continues to climb more gently, until it begins to undulate across more featureless terrain. After a couple of kilometres of this, the main watershed of Scotland is reached between the headwaters of the Allt Grannda and the Allt Cam-ban; on the ground it is very indistinct and difficult to locate the exact watershed.
4. The path soon slopes down a little, combing closer to the Allt Cam-ban before reaching traces of a grassy track and then a very lonely stone building. This is Camban, a very basic unlocked shelter maintained by the Mountain Bothies Association. Around Camban there are the ruins of several other cottages; there must once have been a fair settlement here. Beyond Camban the path is more of a grassy track and continues down the glen for over two kilometres before reaching the confluence of the Allt Gleann Gniomhaidh and the Allt Cam Ban. The waters of the two streams merge here to form the River Affric.
5. The track fords the river, but the path turns left along the banks of the Allt Gleann Gniomhaidh to reach a suspension bridge. Cross this then head right back down the far bank of the river to rejoin the track where it forded the river. This soon reaches another bridge, this time over the Allt Beithe Garbh. The walk does not cross this, instead turning sharp left onto a clear path which intially has a gravel surface. If you need overnight accommodation however, Alltbeithe (Glen Affric) Youth Hostel is about a kilometre further on over the bridge. (Note that this hostel is completely isolated in the mountains and does not sell food or have any road access).
6. Continue on the path which heads upstream along the southwest banks of the Allt Beithe Garbh. After a short uphill section, the path leads the stream and begins to contour the slopes, heading up Gleann Gniomhaidh. Keep a look out for deer, which are abundant in this area, with some particularly fine stags. The next couple of kilometres of path are excellently maintained by the National Trust. After that, the path (track in places) becomes boggier. Don't be tempted down to the lower path by the river, but keep on the main path across the slopes, which gives easier going. The river below becomes a stream before bending left into the corries of Beinn Fhada; continue ahead on the path, which climbs a little, crossing the main watershed before descending to the head of Loch a' Bhealaich.
7. 
The path heads round the south shore of the loch; this section is boggy. The path then begins to
climb across the slopes towards the Bealach a Sgairne; it becomes excellent before the top of the pass is reached. The pass, a great cleft between the
mountains, is marked by a giant cairn. There is a magnificent view down into Gleann Choinneachain. Continue on the well-constructed path; after about
a kilometre a small cairn marks where the path divides. The left branch heads up onto Beinn Fhada; keep right on the main path which heads downhill, eventually
down a series of zigzags until it reached the Allt a Choire Chaoil. This stream can usually be crossed with dry feet using the boulders; however in high spate it may be necessary to wade, or could even be dangerous.
8. 
Once across, continue on the path which keeps above the Abhainn Choinaig river. The far side of the
valley soon becomes forested, and then the path heads through a gate in a deer fence. Ignore the branch path which heads off to the right at a green signpost,
continuing straight ahead. The path slopes down towards the river and follows the line of a deer fence. Eventually you will see new houses ahead; head
right on the path here, crossing a stile and then a little footbridge. Turn left onto the track. This leads down to the bridge over the main river, where
it becomes the road heading back past the Outdoor centre to Morvich.
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View Accommodation for this area:
Kintail hotels
Kintail B&B
Kintail and Dornie self catering cottages
Kintail hostels
Kintail campsites
