Five Sisters of Kintail
KINTAIL: GLEN SHIEL AND DORNIE
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1. The photo shows the Five Sisters reflected in Loch Duich. The starting point of the walk is a layby on the A87 between two sections of forestry. Note that this is a one-way walk and you'll need to use public transport or a lift back up the road to return to this start point. Walk east along the road from the layby (ignoring the forest track going through a gate). Just before reaching the forestry to the east, turn left off the road onto a clear boggy path which heads steeply up the slopes to the north. This first climb of the day is barely a kilometre long, but very steep as 550 metres have to be gained to reach the Bealach an Lapain. Above the level of the forestry the path sweeps east above the trees; after a short distance, leave the main path which contours above the forestry and turn left more directly uphill on a fainter path. The route zigzags up the hillside above but never stops heading hard uphill.
2. Once at the bealach, relax, as the hardest part of the day is already behind. Ahead of you stretches a magnificent ridgewalk; Sgurr Fhuaran, highest of the Five Sisters, is seen in the distance ahead, but the first climb is along the long and undulating but fine ridge to the top of Sgurr nan Spainteach (the peak of the Spaniards). From here the descent is a little rocky, and just before the bealach there is a short rock scramble to descend. Beyond this, the ridge has two separate crests with a depression between - very confusing in misty conditions. The path heads up the right hand crest at first before switching left.
3. After a steep climb the massive summit cairn of Sgurr na Ciste Duibhe, the first Munro of the day at 1027 metres is reached; continue a short distance beyond to get a superb full length view down Loch Duich. From here, the ridge along the Five Sisters proper is broader and less well defined than that already traversed, though it is very steep, rough and bouldery. Continue down to the Bealach na Craoibhe.
4. The next Munro, Sgurr na Carnach (1002 metres) is gives very rough going, but there is a path winding up the stony slopes to the top. Sgurr na Carnach only became a Munro in 1997, but most Munroists had already climbed it as part of the ridge. Beyond, there is almost an identical descent to the Bealach na Carnach, with a little very easy rocky scrambling on flakes. Beyond, the ascent to Sgurr Fhuaran beyond is again steep and bouldery.
5. Sgurr Fhuaran is the highest and central of the Five Sisters at 1067 metres, and the third and final Munro of the day. The west ridge of Sgurr Fhuaran is the first reasonable descent route to Glen Shiel since the Bealach na Lapain; it gives a very long and fairly steep route down to the valley. Many walkers opt to make this descent; if doing this, continue along the valley floor before crossing the footbridge over the River Shiel just east of Loch Shiel.
6. Purists and aesthetes, however, will want to continue the ridge walk. It is necessary to descend the west ridge for around three hundred metres to avoid steep ground; at this point, follow the path which cuts back off the west ridge and joins the north ridge. This continues to descend to reach the Bealach Buidhe. The next peak on the ridge is Sgurr nan Saighead; this is not a Munro, and the main path bypasses the summit. It is well worth keeping to the ridge, however, as the northeast slopes of this peak are the steepest and most impressive in the whole Five Sisters range. Continue along the ridge from the summit down to the next bealach, with more great views down fearsome gulleys into Coire na h-Uaighe.
7. After crossing a minor bump, the steep peak of Beinn Bhuidhe appears ahead. One path heads left here, avoiding Beinn Bhuidhe and descending its northwest ridge. If taking this option, follow the path down the ridge, descending steeply at one point beside a stream, to reach the flat bog of Fasach an t-Searraich. From here, head north and cross the Allt a Chruinn before following the path down its north bank. The other option is to scramble to the top of Beinn Buidhe, and then down its rocky NNE ridge to the next bealach. From here, the start of the path down the north bank of the Allt a Chruinn can be joined, soon passing a waterfall.
8. Continue down the path on the north bank, which soon improves and follows the line of a stalkers path. Lower down the hillside the stream falls into a gorge; the path swings right here before making a winding descent of the hillside. It passes through a gate lower down, and emerges into Allt a'chruinn village beside the waterworks. You are now about 13 kilometres from where you began the walk.
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