Beinn na h-Eaglaise and Beinn nan Caorach

1. There is a car park at Corran at the end of the public road through the Glenelg peninsula. This is a stunning spot, with superb views across Loch Hourn to Ladhar Bheinn. It is possible to begin the walk from the tiny village, following the south side of the River Arnisdale, but the path no longer exists and its really easier to head back along the tarmac road towards Arnisdale before turning right onto a track signed as a private road to Glenfield Cottage. Pass behind the cottage and continue on the track that leads up Glen Arnisdale, passing through a gate and eventually coming alongside the river.

2. Soon the track reaches a bridge across the river; do not cross but instead leave the track by heading left through the grassy meadow. You are aiming for an old iron footbridge over the Allt Utha; if you can't see it, it is a little to the left and beyond the building at Achadh a'Ghlinne. Cross the footbridge and continue ahead on the far side to pick up a track that follows the line of an old stalkers path. Turn left up this as it climbs steeply above the fine woods to continue up the Utha glen; at one point it is possible to short-cut a long zig-zag by following a path straight ahead. Looking back, there are wonderful views back over Glen Arnisdale and Corran.

3. When the track turns sharp right, follow it and ignore the path straight ahead. The track now gains height rapidly in a series of zig-zags before passing the top of the Cuingid gorge, which has a very fine waterfall; shortly beyond this the track comes close to the burn. Strike off here, crossing the burn and heading up the pathless slopes of Beinn nan Caorach to the north. The going is up heather and grass, a little wet at first but soon steepening and becoming rocky. It is possible to avoid the rocks and find a way up the steep, broad ridge; the angle eases a couple of times before reaching a shoulder at 730 metres. The cairned summit of Beinn nan Caorach is now just a short distance further on.

4. The views are glorious, with mighty Beinn Sgritheall dominant to the west and the second of today's peaks, Beinn na h-Eaglaise, in front of it. To the left are the Cuillin of Rum, followed by a glorious sweep over the mountains of Knoydart, Loch Quoich and Kintail. Finally, to the northwest, is a great sweep along the Inner Sound, dividing Skye and Raasay from the Applecross peninsula. Beinn nan Caorach is crossed by a line of old fenceposts and the walk continues by following this, first to the north then northwest.

5. There are rocky outcrops at first before the grassy Bealach Dhruim nam Bo is crossed; continue round the Druim nam Bo ridge, now heading southwest, to a second, lower bealach at just under 550 metres. Beinn na h-Eaglaise now rises steeply ahead as a grassy pyramid; follow the line of posts up its steepening northeast ridge. At one point the ridge is barred by a crag but this is easily avoided on the left side; head back up to the crest above, which narrows to give a fine route to the summit cairn. This is a magnificent viewpoint, with the only flaw being that the Cuillin are hidden behind Beinn Sgritheall.

6. The view down to Loch Hourn is better from slightly further along; here the fence posts split with one branch leading towards the precipitous drop down to the Bealach Arnasdail and the second set heading southeast towards Beinn Buidhe - which is the route of descent. The drop down to the bealach before Beinn Buidhe is steep in places. From this bealach, there is a choice of onward routes; many walkers opt to continue over Beinn Buidhe and then descend the steep open slope slightly east of south until a slight flattening at 250 metres and then a final plunge south to gain the track and the outward route. Alternatively one can follow the line of the posts (infrequent), heading south from the bealach to descent very steeply (great care needed) to reach and initially follow the line of the Allt a'Bhile.

7. The one consolation for the very rough going is the superb view down to Corran. At about 500 metres follow the a sheep-path which traverses left from the gully, again along the line of the fenceposts. This leads onto a grassy tongue between two branches of the burn; continue by the fenceposts heading down this tongue, which is easier going than the steep gully was higher up. Just before meeting the confluence of the two burns, where the ground again becomes broken in crags, traverse left, crossing the left branch of the burn, and continue the descent. Aim just left of the low knobbly summit (spot height 258m on Explorer maps) and then continue the descent southwards. Either descend by a burn to reach a large drystone wall and the meadows, or head slightly right from the burn on a sheep path to reach a final very steep descent to a gap in the drystone wall. Head through this and across the wet meadow to gain the outward track, turning right to follow it back to the public road.

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