Stage 3: Rowardennan to Inverarnan

1. The West Highland Way follows the minor road towards the youth hostel passing between the Visitor Centre at the car park and the start of the main path up Ben Lomond. However if you haven't been before it is worth taking the lochside path to see the memorial to fallen members of the armed forces to whom the whole area is dedicated as a memorial park. Rejoin the road heading north, keep right at the entrance to the youth hostel and then bear left at the fork to head through oak woods. Keep right at the entrance to Ptarmigan Lodge to go through a metal gate. Once past the building on the left there is a choice of routes. Most walkers opt for the higher route which stays on the track and heads through forestry. The lower path (not waymarked) heads left down to the shore just beyond the Ptarmigan Lodge boundary fence to take a much rougher path along the lochside which is tough in places but more scenic. The lower route adds about an hour to the day's walk and passes the bothy at Rowchoish, maintained by volunteers of the Mountain Bothy Association. If you visit it, please help to keep it tidy and carry out any rubbish you find, and then report its condition at the Rowchoish page on the MBA website. The lower route rejoins the higher track at the point where it becomes a path, 5km further on.

2. If taking the higher route continue on the undulating forest track eventually passing a seat on a wee detour to the left with a great view across the loch to the distinctive shaped mountain The Cobbler. The track soon narrows to a path through more open woodland with many up and down sections and small burns to cross. After the bridge over the Cailness Burn a pretty cottage is passed and at the next bridge Craigrostan Woods is reached. This is an large remnant of the ancient oakwood which once covered the whole area.

3. The woods survived here because the bark was valuable for tanning leather which was much in demand during the industrial revolution. More recently the wood has been threatened by non-native species, and is protected with a regeneration plan which aims to maintain this important habitat for pine marten, pied flycatcher and wood ants. The presence of more leisurely-paced walkers will indicate that you are nearly at Inversnaid, where the cruise boats often drop visitors for a short time and the large hotel hosts coach parties. A couple of bridges over Snaid Burn provide good views of the waterfall but the best view is to head down the steps to the left of the hotel, which welcomes walkers for refreshments and has a bunkhouse. Pass in front of the hotel which also operates a ferry to Inveruglas across the loch - a link with the northern end of the Cowal Way.

4. Just beyond the hotel the old boathouse is passed before a path on the right leads to the RSPB Nature Trail, which is worth taking if you have the energy - it rejoins the route further on. There is an informal camping area on the route here. The roughest section of the route is now encountered with many up and down sections over stones and tree roots. However it is a peaceful section, look out for the wild goats whom you may smell before you spot them, the only disturbance likely to be from the occasional boat cruises that come in close to view Rob Roy's cave. A flight of rough stone steps leads to a signed detour on the left to the cave. This is where the famous outlaw allegedly held his captives, although for fans of caves it is very unimpressive and not really worth the slippery scramble over and between the huge boulders that block the entrance. The massive painted sign is for the benefit of the boat cruisers.

5. The path continues to twist along the lochside, passing a small beach with a good view of Island I Vow. After the end of the Inversnaid Reserve a bridge leads to another short rough section with a high flight of wooden steps that need care in wet weather and then heads over easier grassy terrain. The path descends to the bothy at Doune (another open Mountain Bothy Association shelter in an old byre; again please help keep it tidy and carry out any rubbish you find here and report its condition here). After another footbridge and stile a short detour to the left takes you to the jetty at Ardleish. Here an orange ball can be hoisted to summon the ferry to Ardlui where there is a campsite, shop, pub, accommodation and train and bus stops - the times for the ferry are on a sign near the stile.

6. The next section has lovely views to the mountains in the north. On the short climb just east of Cnap Mor there is a memorial to Dario Melaragni, organiser of the popular West Highland Way Race, the fastest runner has completed the entire route in just under 15 and three quarter hours. Leaving the north end of the Loch behind pass the ruins at Blarstainge and cross the burn to reach Beinglas Farm. Here there are wigwams, camping, B&B, food and drink and a small shop. There is more accommodation in Inverarnan just off route on the A82; for this, turn left at the information board to follow a path down towards the river skirting the edge of the field away from the campsite. When this link path reaches the track turn right to cross the bridge, and then left afterwards (less than a kilometre in total).

Next stage: Inverarnan to Tyndrum

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