This excellent walk visits Chanonry Point - the best place in Britain for dolphin-watching - as part of a circuit including both great beaches and fine views.
Summary
Waymarked paths throughout; the steep ascent up Swallows Den can be avoided by heading straight back to Fortrose from Rosemarkie.
Terrain
Parking by the Cathedral ruins in Fortrose
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1. Park in Fortrose by the Cathedral ruins. Head up to the High Street, and turn left along it. There are some very fine arts and crafts style houses along the road, especially on the right. Continue along the pavement until there is a very sharp turn to the left (St Andrews walk), which leads down to the harbour (signed for the beach and sailing club). From the harbour, continue along the road, passing in front of some attractive cottages. The road then climbs back uphill; turn right at the junction by St Andrews Church.
2. Keep straight on, passing Fortrose Academy. Soon you'll see a picnic area with tables to the right of the road - go into this picnic area and follow the grassy path that continues from it; this leads you into Fortrose caravan park. Continue straight through the caravan park, keeping close to the sea; at the far end is a public footpath sign pointing three ways. Continue straight ahead, which is signed for 'Chanonry point - 1 mile'. The path heads through the gorse for a while before keeping close to the sea next to the golf course - so watch out for small white flying objects.
3. At the end of the golf course, pass behind the sixth tee to join a track leading into Chanonry Point car park. There is a memorial here marking the point where the Brahan Seer was burned to death in boiling tar - a warning to astrologers. The point also has a lighthouse and a fine view across to Fort George, but is much more famous today as the best place in Britain to watch dolphins. Continue along the pebbly shore to the right of the lighthouse to reach the point (if the tide is right in, you can follow a path which starts left of the bungalow next to the lighthouse). Dolphin-spotters usually watch from the furthest part of the point; if you are lucky and are here on an incoming tide, you'll see the dolphins jumping around and splashing their tails only a few metres out from the shore.
4. The east side of the peninsula is taken up by a fine sandy beach, stretching right to Rosemarkie. Either walk along the sand and pebbles or follow a path in the grass just alongside. Beyond the golf course, you'll pass Rosemarkie caravan site before entering the pleasant seaside village itself. Continue along the seafront to the end of the road; turn left here to emerge on the main road next to the Plough Inn. Turn right along the road (in the direction of Cromarty). From this point, you can extend the walk by detouring up into the Fairy Glen before returning here.
5. To continue the walk back to Fortrose, turn left onto a waymarked path just beyond the last house (signed Swallow Den walk). This path climbs steeply uphill through the trees. As you gain height, there are good views down into a ravine on the right, and better ones of Chanonry Point and the walk so far over to your left. Continue along the path, which eventually joins a minor road. Turn left down this road which returns you to Fortrose
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