Carn Eige and Mam Sodhail are the two highest mountains north of the Great Glen and spectacular viewpoints. This long, wild mountain walk around a horse-shoe of ridges becomes something of an epic by the (optional) addition of the very remote Munro of Beinn Fhionnlaidh.
Summary
Small sections of rocky and awkward ground and some bogs on the approach and route back, but also many miles of good walking on grassy ridges.
Terrain
NH216242
Grid ref
29.5km/18.25 miles
Distance
Grade
Car park near Chisholme Bridge alongside Loch Beinn a Mheadhoin
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There is a bus service up Glen Affric three days a week in the summer, but it would not leave time to do the walk.
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Pronunciation
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1. There is a good sized layby on the left side of the Affric road just before Chisholme Bridge. Begin the walk along the track which leads from the opposite side of the road up Gleann nam Fiadh. The path passes below a plantation with views over Loch Beinn a' Mheadhoin before passing through a couple of gates and heading into wilder country, with the Munros of Toll Creagach and the more impressive Tom a'Choinich ahead. The track curves to the left through a scattered pinewood. Further on it becomes a footpath and is can be very boggy in places, and crosses several streams. The Allt Toll Easa can be impassable in high spate but is usually straightforward. A path goes off right immediately afterwards – stay on the boggy path up the glen instead.
2. The cone-like peak of Sron Garbh further up the glen is the first objective. Continue up the glen for a couple more kilometres until below Coire Mhic Fhearchair. When the path forks, take the higher path to the right which leaves the main stream. It is indistinct where it crosses the Allt Coire Mhic Fhearchair – if you lose the path, you are aiming for the grassy shoulder directly ahead. Further up the path is much clearer as it zig-zags up to the hanging plateau below the Garth-bealach. Continue up the easy grassy ground all the way to the bealach between Sron Garbh and An Leth-chreag, where a sudden view of Loch Mullardoch and its own range of Munros comes into view. Turn left at the bealach for the final steep rocky ascent to Sron Garbh. There is a loose path to the left but if you follow the crest of the ridge you should be able to ascend an amazing man-made rock-staircase, the remains of an old stalking path. This leads up to the flatter ground at the Top of Sron Garbh – and a grand ridgewalk now stretches ahead.
3. The ridge is straightforward at first but after Stob Coire Dhomhnuill it is riven into a series of jagged, broken pinnacles. Keen scramblers will attempt to traverse them, but there is a bypass path initially on the right and soon switching across to the left side. Beyond there is a slight ascent to Stob a'Choire Dhomhain before a wide bealach and the final climb up to Carn Eige. This summit, marked by a trig point inside a wind-shelter cairn, is 1183 metres, making it the highest mountain north of the Great Glen. The views are extremely extensive, stretching from Skye in the west to the Moray Firth and Ben Rinnes in the east. At this point a decision must be made whether to include Beinn Fhionnlaidh in the day. This involves the loss of a great deal of height and an eventual reascent but Beinn Fhionnlaidh is very difficult to reach from anywhere else so most Munro-baggers will want to go for it. Descend the northwest ridge, which mostly has a good path.
4. A stony section of the descent is avoided by keeping to the path near the ridge crest. The path then traverses to the left of Stob Coire Lochan before descending once more to the wide Bealach Beag at 832 metres. From here the path heads directly up the steep grassy slope to the north towards Beinn Fhionnlaidh, with the final section being an enjoyable easy ridge. Beinn Fhionnlaidh is one of the most prized Munro summits due to its remoteness, and has great views both along Loch Mullardoch and looking back to Carn Eige over the large Coire Lochain. Return to the bealach and reascend most of the way back up Carn Eige. At around 1040 metres there is a flatter shoulder; from here it is possible to traverse across the west side of Carn Eige to avoid the need to return all the way to the summit. There are traces of a path keeping just below the initial areas of loose stones; continue to contour the slope, rising just slightly and finally crossing a couple of areas of stones before emerging back on the ridge at the bealach between Carn Eige and Mam Sodhail. If unsure of the ground or the navigation it may be easier to stick with the ridge over Carn Eige instead.
5. From the bealach a path climbs southwards, finally zig-zagging before reaching the massive cairn on the top of Mam Sodhail. The cairn is hollow but the inside can only be reached by climbing it; it was built by the Ordnance Survey and used as the principal triangulation point for northern Scotland. As that suggests, the views are as extensive as those from Carn Eige. In poor weather, you could escape from the ridges from here by descending the southwest ridge and then following the zig-zag path down the headwall of Coire Leachavie. The upper parts of the corrie are very boggy but further down is a stalkers path that leads to the main Loch Affric path and the long walk out. In good conditions, however, it is more enjoyable to along the long ESE ridge towards Mullach Cadha Rainich.
6. The ridge is narrow but grassy and gives a very enjoyable traverse. There is only a very slight ascent over the Top of Mullach Catha Rainich. Beyond there is a longer but gradual ascent to the terminal peak of Sgurr na Lapaich along the edge of a curious landslip. This summit, not be be confused with the Mullardoch Sgurr na Lapaich further north, was once a Munro before being demoted to the status of a Top; many walkers feel it does deserve Munro status and there is every chance is could become one again in future. The views may be less far-reaching than those earlier in the day, but they are more beautiful, with wonderful aerial panoramas over Glen Affric and its forests and lochs. Descend the southeast ridge, which is steep and rocky though a path avoids any need for scrambling. Once down to the level of the moors, head east to meet a track at a prominent bend. Head down the track which leads to the shores of Loch Affric below Affric Lodge. Turn left along the main track to reach the car park at the end of the road. A further mile down the tarmac road is Chisholm Bridge and the start.
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