Next month top climbers Dave MacLeod and Andy Turner will attempt to recreate a legendary era of climbing on Ben Nevis, 50 years on, while making a film for the Fort William Mountain Festival. In 1960, Jimmy Marshall and Robin Smith were the first to ascend six routes on Ben Nevis in winter conditions.
These ascents, made without the aid of modern equipment, are highly respected by climbers. The following quote from Colin Wells’ Who’s Who in British Climbing says it all, “In one legendary week on Ben Nevis in 1960 Jimmy Marshall and Robin Smith advanced Scottish winter climbing a full ten years. On consecutive days they climbed six first winter ascents, including the mini Alpine-route Orion Face Direct (V, 5), while also making the second ascent of Point Five Gully (V, 5) for good measure. The fact they achieved all this by cutting steps up the snow and ice appears, from the remove of the 21st century, to be almost unbelievable. Marshall’s skill was such that he could lead routes almost faster than some of his talented seconds could follow.”
The Fort William Mountain Festival runs from 11-15 February and starts with a Ceilidh and includes workshops, talks and films. On Sunday 14 February Jimmy Marshall will be presenting a night of stories and images from Scottish climbing. See the Festival website for more details and prices.