Beautiful Rubha Hunish, the northernmost point of the island, is a magical place; this is the best walk on Skye for seabird and mammal watching.
Summary
Boggy paths across moorland, indistinct in places. A steep scrambly descent down rocks leads to the headland, though this section can be omitted if it is too daunting.
Terrain
Small car park; take the minor road from the phone box near Kilmaluag signed for Shulista
to reach it.
[Map of start point, satnav coords and directions]
Start
Maps
Users'
rating
Bus number 57 from Portree - 4 times a day. Ask to get off at Kilmaluag phone box -
the bus can be caught at Duntulm for the return.
Open Traveline Scotland
Public transport
1. Turn off the A855 at the phone box near Kilmaluag. There is a car park on the right just before the road crosses the cattle grid. Start the walk by crossing the cattle grid and then turning immediately left on a boggy path. Follow this path along the edge of the low escarpment, heading NNW. The path is boggy in places but fairly distinct, and continues mostly along the top of the low escarpment. The ruins of the abandoned village of Erisco come into view below to the left, whilst Duntulm castle is prominent on its crag by the sea. The path eventually reaches a kissing gate in a fence.
2. Go through the gate and follow the now faint path uphill northwards onto Meall Tuath. A small flat roofed building becomes visible ahead - continue uphill here following a raised dyke. About half way up bear off to the left along a faint path and then climb directly up to the hut. This is a former coastguard Lookout overlooking the Little Minch, an important shipping channel. The hut was once manned around the clock, and offers excellent shelter on a wild day and is maintained by volunteers from the Mountain Bothy Association. Please carry out any rubbish and submit a report on its condition via its page on the MBA website. The location is spectacular, with great vertical cliffs plunging down a hundred metres just to the north, and magnificent views across the sea to the mountains on the Isle of Harris, with Clisham the most prominent. Follow the path along the cliff edge to the left (west south west).
3. The path soon descends into a hollow beneath two higher sections of cliff. At the far end of this hollow a giant boulder sits close to the cliff edge. On the far side of this boulder the steep descent to the Hunish headland begins. This rocky staircase looks alarming from the top but you should be able to see a clear path further down below, and even the first rocky section looks worse than it is. Scramble carefully down the rocks and follow the route which turns towards the right about fifty yards down. Soon you're off the rocks and following a well made path below the cliffs. If it all looks too much, skip the descent to the Hunish headland and continue at point 6.
4. A flatter grassy area is reached near the sea, below the spectacular basalt columns of the cliffs. Cross straight over the headland to the east coast, where there are some beautiful twisting geos (rocky inlets). This is a great area for spotting otters in the sea - the small green humps with white specks on top are their excrement piles marking the territories. Ascend northwards above the cliffs and follow the coastline northwest. It's worth making a circuit round the whole headland before returning back up the scramble descent. There are three great sea stacks on the east side and an impressive natural arch. The cliffs are home to countless shags and razorbills, whilst visiting gannets regularly harpoon the sea in the summer months.
5. The northernmost tip of the headland is the best place on Skye for spotting dolphins, porpoise and whales, especially in July and August. Listen for the sound of them blowing when they surface. Head back down the less spectacular western side of the peninsula before reascending the cliffs by the same route you came down.
6. Back at the top of the cliff by the boulder, ascend the other side of the dip to the west onto the hill of Meal Deas, with more great views. Continue round on the path which eventually turns south and descends to a gate. Through the gate, continue south above the shores of the bay. The island just offshore is Tulm Island. This section along the coast is another favourite haunt of otters. A mile further along the shore is a dry stone wall. Follow this to the left uphill until, round a corner, you can climb a stile over a fence. Cross this and follow the wall until you reach a gate giving access to some houses. Go through the gate and head for the access road to the nearest house. Head along this track past the white coastguard cottages. These are now holiday homes but originally were the homes of the guards who manned the lookout passed earlier. Follow the track up to the main road, and turn left along this to reach the start point in one kilometre.
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