These two quartzite-topped Corbetts are the most northerly mountains in Britain. Together they give a rough but enjoyable hillwalk; the views are every bit as good as might be guessed from their position. Cranstackie is the most distinctive of the two peaks, whilst Beinn Spionnaidh has the most open outlook of the north coast.
Summary
Rough, pathless hillwalk. Steep slopes of rank grasses, a boggy corrie, and very rough boulder fields higher up.
Terrain
NC332592
Grid ref
12km/7.5 miles
Distance
Grade
Safety warning: Hillwalking when there is snow or ice lying requires ice-axe, crampons and the ability to use them. Some featured routes can become technical ice climbs. Check out our Winter Skills information provided by the Mountaineering Council of Scotland.
Users'
rating
Durness to Lairg bus (806) runs along the A838
Open Traveline Scotland
Public transport
1. The walk begins from Carbreck on the A838; there is parking in an old quarry about 150 metres to the south. Start along the good track that descends southeast towards Rhigolter. Beinn Spionnaidh is visible ahead with a long line of low crags topping the screes of its ridge, whilst Cranstackie has a more dome-like appearance topped with jagged rocks, whilst between them is the grassy Cioch Mhor ridge, used on the descent. Most eyes, however, will be drawn to Foinaven to the south which looks magnificent. The track crosses a bridge over the River Dionard and reaches Rhigolter.
2. Pass the barns well above the house to reach a gate on the left just beyond, giving access to the hill. There is no path from here on; head southeast, diagonally up the rough moorland, often passing through rank grasses. As the Allt Calbhach Coire is approached a fence is reached; exit through the gate at the top, far southeast corner and continue uphill into to reach the foot of the corrie. The floor of the Calbhach Coire is very boggy; it is probably best to cross the burn when you can and then continue a little above the worst of it. The route climbs up to the bealach at the eastern end; it looks formidable from a distance but is reached without major incident up steep grass.
3. There is no sudden view from the bealach down to Loch Eriboll; this has to wait. Continue up the steep and well-defined grassy ridge southwest towards Cranstackie. A flatter shoulder is reached part way up and the ridge broadens here. The final stage of the ascent is up steep, shattered quartzite boulders requiring care if wet; keep just right of some slabby crags..
4. The ground levels out again above the steep section onto a bouldery plateau; the summit cairn is a short distance beyond, perched on the edge of a crag. The views are very extensive; Foinaven looks superb to the south, with the flatter coastal moorlands to its right. Further round is the wild area called Parph, hiding Cape Wrath, before the Kyle of Durness and the sands of Faraid Head before Beinn Spionnaidh blocks the view.
5. Return back down the rocky slope and then the ridge to head back to the bealach, with Beinn Spionnaidh in view ahead throughout. Cross the wet dip before climbing steeply at first up the open grassy slope beyond. This eases off before another climb over boulders leads to the summit plateau of Beinn Spionnaidh. The summit is still some 400 metres northeast across the rocks, and is marked by a white-painted trig point almost buried in an encircling cairn.
6. The view along the northern coastline is now superb and uninterrupted, with Ben Hope appearing as a whaleback, and the distinctive summits of Ben Loyal beyond. Return across the boulderfield to the southwest until it is safe to descend northwest over boulders at first and then a grassy ridge towards Cioch Mhor. Continue over this minor summit breifly before aiming west down steep, open slopes towards Rhigolter. Just to the right of the buildings there is a gate; pass through this and continue with a fence on your left until another gate gives access to the track. This now leads back to the start.
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