Dunbeath Strath provides a walk with a fine variety of interest. Beautiful silver-birch woodland borders the stream and the rocky gorge whilst the open moors above provide expansive views. There is a wealth of archeological remains along the way. Those looking for an easier walk can simply follow the route as far as Prisoner's Leap.
Summary
Clear though rough riverside path for the first section. The climb up to the track following this is very steep and the ascent of Cnoc na Maranaich is pathless and often wet heather moorland.
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1. There is a purpose-built car park and picnic area down past the Mill on the inland edge of Dunbeath; turn off just east the old Thomas Telford bridge beneath the modern A9 flyover. The village was the birthplace of the novelist Neil Gunn; a plaque marks the house next door to the shop. His book Highland River was based around the Strath. The Mill dates from the 1850s and was in use until the 1950s; it had an internal water-wheel - an innovation at the time. An interpretative board gives details of the walk; begin it by heading upstream beside the river. The path soon reaches and passes through a kissing-gate, and then a suspension footbridge over the Burn of Houstry, a tributary of the Dunbeath Water.
2. On the far side of the bridge the path turns left to keep heading upstream beside the Dunbeath Water, but before doing this head through the gate straight ahead. This gives access to a short path that climbs up to what at first looks like a walled enclosure filled with trees. Inside the enclosure is Dunbeath Broch, a well-preserved example of a fortified iron-age refuge. The walls still stand to a considerable height and a low doorway gives access to a chamber inside the far curtain wall. After visiting the broch, return back down the path and resume the walk upriver.
3. The path runs beneath a crag and then heads through another kissing gate. Do not cross the next suspension bridge, instead simply continuing upstream. The next section of the walk is a delight as the path runs through fine woodland of lichen-encrusted downy birches, rowans and hazels - which are still farmed for their nuts. Look out too for a profusion of wildflowers in summer, as well as dippers bobbing in the river and buzzards soaring overhead. Head through another gate and pass a bench.
4. Eventually another footbridge is reached, this time a wooden one supported on iron girders. Again, do not cross the river but instead continue on the path upstream towards the rocky gorge now visible ahead. The gorge is known as the Prisoner's Leap after a local legend; a prisoner known as Ian McMormack Gunn is said to have been offered his freedom if he could leap the gorge. According to the story he did it - but when you see the gorge this seems pretty doubtful! The gorge is impassable and at this point a decision needs to be made. The easier option is to retrace your steps from here; otherwise for the hard walk take the rough path that climbs steeply uphill from the entrance to the gorge. Once above the gorge the rough path gives great views back.
5. When the path reaches a fence turn right and follow this up to a vehicle track, then turn left along this. Continue along the track, which has a view of the hill of Cnoc na Maranaich ahead, easily identified by the standing stone by the summit. Follow the track through a gate and past the ruined farmhouse.
6. Continue on the track until it reaches a cemetery enclosed by whitewashed walls. This is Tutnaguail and was featured in Neil Gunn's book; it has a good outlook over the river. From the cemetary the route heads directly up to the standing stone on Cnoc na Maranaich across the rough and often wet heathery slopes. The standing stone is part of a Neolithic quarry and is thought to have been erected around four thousand years ago, held up by stone chocks. One theory is that at the time, on Midsummer's Day, it aligned the setting sun with a notch in the hills. There is also a chambered cairn nearby.
Photo © Ewan Rennie; reproduced under CC
7. From the stone you can either return the way you came via the cemetery, or head back down a little before following an old track which heads southeast towards some more chambered cairns, one of which is marked with two modern cairns on the top. From this cairn (Cairn Liath) head west to rejoin the outward track. Turn left and either retrace your outward route, remembering to turn right and follow the path back to the foot of the gorge and the start of the walk. Before leaving Dunbeath it is worth wandering along the old road under the A9 to visit the harbour.
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