An unspoilt section of coast with lovely beaches and good views and a remote feel. The walk can be shortened if a lift is arranged from the Cape Wrath Ferry pier.
Summary
Rough coastal path, some pathless sections, road with grass verge, good path through fields.
Terrain
Balnakeil car park next to ruined church
[Map of start point, satnav coords and directions]
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1. Start from the car park at Balnakeil, reached by taking the minor road west from Durness, passing the Balnakeil Craft Village. The car park is next to a ruined church and the large Balnakeil House. This house dates from 1744 and was the seat of the Clan Mackay and sits on the site of a monastry founded by Maelrubha in about 720. There are great views over the beaches of Faraid Head. From the car park follow the road towards the Golf Course and go through the parking area, ignoring a stile to the coast on the right. Once through the golf course gateway take the turf path straight ahead which bears slightly to the right and is marked with large pebbles at the start. Keep an eye out for golfers and do not disturb their play.
2. This passes some of the most picturesque tees on any golf course and soon reaches a bench and turns right at a junction onto a narrower grassy path and continues next to the cliff edge. Follow the path to a fence, before you reach it, turn left to head up to a gate. Go through the gate to leave the golf course and continue on a very faint path which keeps close to the cliff edge.
3. Pass a deep geo, or inlet, and keep following the coast, taking care near the cliff edge. Pass a small beach where there is a good view towards Cape Wrath and keep near the coast as the headland is rounded and the walk starts to head south.
4. An area of springy turf is crossed and then a beach with a curious rock ridge between the sand and the water is passed on the path in the dunes just behind it. Cross a stile over a fence and descend to another beach. This is easiest crossed on the sand if the tide allows, it is a bit steep where you have to climb up on the far side, an easier point to return to the faint path in the dunes is where a stream comes down half way along the beach.
5. The route now follows the dunes and clifftop alongside the Kyle of Durness. The white house opposite is near the jetty where the Cape Wrath ferry alights, you can take a bus trip to the Cape during the summer. Eventually the bus shelter at the pier can be seen. Head for it and go through the gate to reach the road.
6. Follow the road around the bay and just before it reaches the main road turn left which short-cuts to the main road. Cross this carefully and then head left to follow it almost all the way back to Durness. Look out for a path signed for Balnakeil to the left and go through a gate and onto a straight footpath. This runs alongside a stone wall, passing through another two gates before passing the Old Manse on the right and following the track up past the edge of the Balnakeil Craft Village. At the road turn left to return to the car park at Balnakeil.
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