Beinn Alligin
TORRIDON, SHIELDAIG AND KINLOCHEWE
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1. Park in the car park on the west side of the Abhain Coire Mhic Nobuil, about three kilometres west of Torridon village. Have a look at the river from the bridge- there are some attractive waterfalls here- before taking the path up the west side of the stream (not the much larger path on the east side). The path soon crosses the deer fence at a stile, continuing up the moor to reach the stream issuing from the deep scoop of Coir nan Laogh. Continue up the path into the corrie.
2. The clear but rough path zig-zags straightforwardly up the corrie, keeping to the east side of the stream. After a long climb, emerge suddenly on a fairly flat plateau. The triangulation point marking the summit of Tom na Gruagaich, at 922 metres, is soon reached over to the right. This was once a mere Top but in 1997 it was promoted and it is now the lower of Beinn Alligin's two Munros. It is a fabulous viewpoint, with a vast swathe of the sea topped off with the Isle of Skye, whilst to the east, Liathach is seen end-on. Best of all, however, is the view of the ridgewalk ahead.
3. Head down the narrow north ridge of Tom na Gruagaich, which is steep and rocky in places, though in good weather the way is very obvious. From the col, climb up over a minor top; beyond this the ridge levels off briefly before beginning the final steep climb up to Sgurr Mhor. Shortly before reaching the summit, the ridge is split by the Eag Dubh or Black Cleft, a tremendously dramatic gully on the southeast side. This looks impassable from many angles but in fact it is easily bypassed on the left side. Beyond, the second and highest of Beinn Alligin's two Munro summits, Sgurr Mhor at 986 metres, is easily reached. This is an even better viewpoint, with Baosbheinn looking fabulous across Loch a Bhealaich to the north; but the pick of the view is that of the incredibly steep peak of Beinn Dearg with the Horns of Alligin as a foreground. If you don't like scrambling or if the weather is poor, you can return from here back the way you came; taking this option would reduce the difficulty of the walk to Grade 4.
4. Descent the ridge that dips steeply towards the first of the Horns. The three Horns of Alligin, Na Rathanan in Gaelic, are a landmark from many points miles around, and together with the steep domed top of Sgurr Mhor make Beinn Alligin easy to identify in distant views. There is a faint path which traverses the very steep grass slopes to the right of the Horns, but this can be very slippery and is probably more dangerous than climbing the Horns themselves. Instead follow the path which winds up the first Horn, with some simple but airy scrambling. The second Horn is fairly straightforward, whilst on the final Horn it is necessary to traverse to the right when meeting a steep section, and then getting back to the ridge via a short chimney.
5. The descent down the southeast ridge from the third Horn would probably be very tricky with sandstone terraces hidden from above if it wasn't for a clear path which ingeniously avoids any difficulties. From the foot of the ridge keep heading down towards the Allt a Bhealaich, crossing this at the earliest opportunity. The path now heads down the east bank, passing some waterfalls, before crossing the Abhainn Coire Mhic Nobuil on a footbridge. Continue on the excellent path down the east bank, which returns to the car park.
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