A challenging coastal walk between two picturesque settlements, passing through spectacularly rugged and rocky scenery.
Summary
There is a path throughout, but it is rough and rocky and traverses steep ground in places.
Terrain
NG798599
Grid ref
8km/5 miles
Distance
Grade
NB. Hillwalking when there is snow on the hills requires an ice-axe, crampons and winter skills and experience.
Users'
rating
1. Park in the small car park just before the pier in Diabaig village. This is a beautiful and peaceful spot, with the green fields, cottages and picturesque old fishing boat contrasting sharply with the rugged and rocky southern shores of the bay. The walk begins by heading to the end of the road and going through the gate of Cadhanahearba cottage. Turn left immediately through another gate, with a blue footpath sign. You'll soon reach a small barn; the path bends right here and ascends through the attractive woodland. Watch out for the word 'Path' painted on a rock; this indicates where the route climbs up a rocky section. There is one awkward step up on a slimy rock which is made easy by the provision of a rope placed to provide a handhold. Beyond this, the path heads right again and passes through a gate in a deer fence. After traversing round a little further, the route heads very steeply up a grass and rock gully for some distance in order to pass above an impassable crag. The path then traverses above the crag on a comfortably wide ledge, unseen from below; the views are spectacular.
2. Towards the end of the shelf the path forks; keep right, as the left branch merely ascends to reach a tall, smooth slab of rock popular with rock climbers. The path now descends slightly. You may notice another, smaller path with some cairns heading round the bay to the right; this is an optional detour out to Araid but is very rough and boggy and not really recommended. Instead continue on the main path which begins to climb again towards the Bealach Mor. Once at the bealach, the path curves round to the left, passing close to two small Lochs, Loch a'Bhealaich Mhoir and then crossing a stream to pass Lochan Dubh. This section is quite boggy in places. At the far end of this second loch, the path begins to descend again, with a wonderful view ahead of Shieldaig across Loch Torridon. A pretty white cottage, reached only by this path or by boat, nestles in the bay below to complete the picture.
3. The walk doesn't visit the cottage, but keeps well left of it and starting to ascend once more. The path climbs up behind the ruins of an old croft, with one or two rocky sections, before beginning to level off and passing through a gate in another deer fence. Some distance further on, after passing round the next corner, there is another truly magnificent view, this time of the head of Loch Torridon. The path now descends slightly and traverses the steep slope of the Leacan Bana, which sweeps down into the sea.
4. Towards the end of this section the path forks. Both forks eventually lead to Wester Alligin (Alligin Shuas on the map). We took the left fork, which is the one marked on the Explorer map. The path crosses a level section of moor before the crofts can be seen ahead, with attractive beechwoods. The path now runs left alongside a fence until it reaches a gate, which it passes through. Descend on the path into the beechwoods.
5. The path becomes less well trodden in the woods but leads back out into the open ground where it fades out. Contour past a couple of ruined crofts, aiming to keep just right of an occupied bungalow; the tarmac road is reached just beyond. Turn right along the road for a short distance, before turning left onto another tarmac road just before the first road bends right. Follow this new road for half a kilometre until it bends right; turn off it here, taking the footpath straight ahead which passes between two bushes and then through a gate. The path is very clear and has tremendous views.
6. When you see a cairn on some flat slabs just right of the path, turn past the cairn over the slabs. The path soon becomes clear again as it descends the slabs into the shrubby trees. The last section down to the coast is beautifully constructed, and reaches the sea beside a white cottage. Turn left, passing several pretty cottages and then over a bridge to reach the road in Inverallgin.
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