Sgurr Mor & the eastern Fannichs
ULLAPOOL
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1. Park in the small parking area just north of Torrandhu bridge on the A835. There is a Met Office weather station here; the route begins by passing it and heading west along the north bank of the Abhainn an Torrain Dubh; it clear to follow and keeps right by the river but can be heavy going after rain. Ignore the bridge over the river, continuing on the west bank to reach the junction with the Allt an'Loch Sgeirich. Cross this latter stream and then follow it uphill, beginning the mostly pathless ascent towards Creag Dubh Fannaich; higher up you'll have to leave the stream and continue over rough bouldery ground to reach this minor summit, marked by a small cairn; the view extends back over Loch Glascarnoch.
2. Continue across a broad bealach and begin the ascent of Beinn Liath Mhor Fannaich itself up a mixture of grass and boulders. The cairn on the summit, the first Munro of the day at 953 metres, is towards the western end of the small plateau, by some rocky outcrops. A good view opens out westwards over Loch a'Mhadaidh, with the prominent dome-like summit of Sgurr Mor towering to its left. The intervening bealach can be difficult to locate in misty conditions; it's probably best to descend steeply west from the summit for a short distance to meet a stalkers path, and turn left along this, keeping the cliffs on your right.
Photo ©Nigel Brown, reproduced under Creative Commons Licence
3. The stalkers path climbs up the far side of the bealach and passes to the left of a minor peak before the ridge narrows briefly. As the ridge broadens again, the stalkers path contours round to the left; leave the path here and climb more directly up the steep slopes towards Sgurr Mor – again with big drops on the right. The slope is eroded into a series of terraces made by a process known as solufluction during the last ice-age. The slope eases shortly before the impressively built summit cairn on the summit of Sgurr Mor is reached. At 1110 metres, this second Munro is the highest summit for miles around, and its impressive witches-hat style outline marks it out in views from other mountains across the region. The view, as might be expected, is very extensive, with Sgurr nan Clach Geala looking impressive close at hand, and An Teallach commanding to the northwest.
Photo ©Nigel Brown, reproduced under Creative Commons Licence
4. Descend back down the south ridge, rejoining the stalkers path after its diversion and continuing over the minor summit of Meall nan Peithirean with its flat rocks. There are excellent views to the north all along this ridge down into a series of rocky, lochan-filled corries. The path descends gently down the far side of this top to reach a bealach, and after passing to the right of the bump of Creachan Rairigidh reaches a second bealach. Here the path forks, with a branch to the south descending towards Loch Fannich; our route follows the path which climbs up to the summit of Meall Gorm. This flat-topped Munro is the third of the walk, and has a height of 949 metres.
Photo ©Chris Eilbeck, reproduced under Creative Commons Licence
5. The ridge continues east, passing a curious stone shelter presumably built by stalkers – with just enough room to huddle inside. The ridge then curves round to the right and descends steeper stony ground to reach the wide Bealach Ban. From the bealach, continue up the very wide grass and scree-covered slopes to the summit plateau. The summit of the fourth Munro, An Coileachan, is marked by a well-built cairn atop a sandstone outcrop.
Photo ©Chris Eilbeck, reproduced under Creative Commons Licence
6. Retrace your steps to the north across the plateau before picking your way steeply down a craggier section, heading in the direction of Loch Gorm. Once on flatter ground, aim for the bealach southwest of Meallan Buidhe. The route on from here becomes very boggy and very rough, with a lot of deep heather; contour the west side of Meallan Buidhe and aim a little east of north across the moors to reach the Abhainn a'Ghuibhais Li. Cross this – using the landrover bridge if necessary – and follow the far bank downriver. The outward route is rejoined at the confluence with the Allt an Loch Sgeireach, where the going becomes easier back to the car park.
Photo ©John Armitstead, reproduced under Creative Commons Licence
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