River Inver and Glencanisp circuit
ASSYNT AND COIGACH
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1. Park in the car park on the waterfront in Lochinver, close to the church. Begin the walk by following the pavement to the north, passing the turning for Baddidarach. Immediately after this look out for a gate and the start of a path going off to the right; it is just before the road crosses the river and is signed 'Glencanisp Loop 6km' – though the walk is actually over a kilometre longer.
2. The path runs through mixed woodland beside the fast-flowing Inver River which rushes over rocks with many small waterfalls. Go through a small wooden gate in a stone wall; beyond the path crosses a wooden boardwalk with the river immediately below on the left. When the path forks, keep to the right uphill – the many left hand branches lead to salmon fishing piers. A little further on there are glimpses of a weir through the trees; keep right at any forks as a path from the weir joins in from the left.
3. Above the weir the river is much wider and more sedate, and there are many little piers built for salmon fishermen as well as more small weirs. If you are lucky you might catch sight of a salmon leaping up one of them. Continue upriver – still keeping right at each fork – the fine walking continues as the river bends to the right. The river now becomes wilder once more and at a small gate the woods are left behind.
4. There are wonderful views upstream to the great ridge of Quinag. When the woods on the other side of the river end too – and the path leads towards a small birchwood right beside the river – look out for a turning onto a fainter path off to the right. It heads up the heathery glen away from the river and climbs gently into a more barren landscape – the path is faint but the going is good. There are the remains of several old blackhouses scattered around this glen, known as Dubh Clais – the Black Valley. Six households – all MacLeods – were cleared in 1800 to make a sheep farm. The path passes right by one of the ruins before reaching a large metal gate.
5. Go through the gate to reach a better path and turn right onto this. It climbs to a low pass – with excellent views of the mountains – before beginning to descend towards Loch Druim Suardalain. Continue down the path to reach the woods and join another track next to an iron shed. Turn right on this track to pass behind the fine Glencanisp Lodge. This was built in 1850 to house the tenant of the new sheep farm, but as part of the Glencanisp estate was purchased by the local community in 2005. Keep to the right of the lodge to join its drive on the far side.
6. The track now runs along the side of the loch with classic views back of the cone-like peak of Canisp and the amazing sugar-loaf summit of Suilven. The tarmac track becomes a public road once you have passed the end of the loch. Continue along the road which eventually descends back into Lochinver. Turn right along the main street to return to the start.
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Route profile
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Hotels around Ullapool and Assynt
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