This circuit of the low lying westermost peninsula of Coigach gives rough going. Good coastal scenery and superb sea and mountain views are the reward.
Summary
Mostly pathless. Going is fair with some bogs to Rubha Coigich; return route is rough and boggy. Minor road to finish.
Terrain
NB964144
Grid ref
19km/11.75 miles
Distance
Grade
GPS Waypoints
View in 3D
Public transport
1. Park just before the bridge at the very end of the road in Reiff; there is space for several cars on the right hand side. Reiff can feel like the end of the world and has a small beach of sand and rocks. Back-track along the road past the bungalow before turning left along a lane between a garage and another bungalow. Just before the track reaches the last stone house leave it and follow a path off to the left, keeping alongside the tidal Loch of Reiff. The path soon fades into sheep tracks; keep on to reach the southern edge of Camas Eilean Ghlais – the Bay of the Grey island. Continue round the shore to reach a small sandy cove in the centre of the bay.
2. From the beach, head diagonally inland to reach a solitary former stone house, now maintained and used as a store. From here cross the stream on a 'causeway' of stones and follow a faint path uphill to the northwest; there are great views back across the bay. The path cuts across the corner to come close to the coast a short distance further on. Pass a stony geo (inlet) and further on cross the Allt nan Clar-Lochan (stream) – there are plenty of stepping stones. Beyond the sheep path continues across a grassy section to reach the southern edge of the rocky Faochag Bay. Follow the shore – which is very boggy here – to reach the back of the bay and then continue north. The route crosses the remains of two dry stone walls sloping down to the bay and then ascends across easy-angled sandstone slabs.
3. The furthest point of Rubha Coigich is reached not far beyond. The headland is much better defined than the OS map would suggest – a large area of flat rocks which ends abruptly in a sudden plunge to the sea. The views are fantastic on a clear day, with the Isle of Lewis far across the sea to the left and the lighthouse near the Point of Stoer visible directly ahead. To the right are the mountains of Assynt and Coigach. If you've found the walk tough so far, you should return the way you came as the continuation down the other side of the peninsula is rougher and boggier. If continuing, follow a sheep path as it rises gently and runs close to the edge of the cliffs, with Suilven's distinctive dome directly ahead.
4. There are several geos (rocky inlets) on the next section and rather than sticking very closely to the cliff edge and having to divert inland around them, it is quicker to try to go directly from the head of one geo to the next. The going becomes increasingly wet but the cliff scenery around the geos, the sea birds and the view of the mountains ahead are some compensation. Geodha na Ploytach Beag has a curious arch in its furthest cliff, situated well above the level of the sea; round this and the next geo before the cliffs eat into a hill ahead, making it necessary to ascend some distance to keep above the cliffs. When past this section don't descend but instead contour on a sheep path and then gain a little more height to pass above another section of cliff, hidden at first, that reaches higher up the hill.
5. Now you can descend once more. An unexpected group of houses comes into view over to the right – Camascoille. Although these are maintained, there is no decent path to them so it really isn't worth the detour. Instead continue ahead aiming for the small hill; there is a fine view from the top to Cul Mor and Stac Pollaidh. Aim just left of Cnoc Mor to pass above another section of higher cliffs; the path now begins to become clearer. Continue round the coast to reach the car park at Achnahaird Bay. The route turns right along the tarmac road here, but before doing so it is worth making a detour on the marked path opposite to see the wonderful Achnahaird Beach, a fine stretch of sand with a dramatic background of the Coigach mountains.
6. Return to the minor road and follow it to the houses and a 't' junction. Turn right here and follow the minor road across a barren stretch of moor. Eventually the road climbs over a low pass and then begins to descend with wonderful views; a path off to the right detours to a viewpoint cairn with an even better outlook over the beaches of Isle Ristol and the scattered Summer Isles to the mountains of Wester Ross beyond. Continue down the road to another t junction; turn right here and follow the road for another couple of kilometres back to Reiff and the start.
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