Toll an Lochain
DUNDONNELL AND ULLAPOOL
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1. Park in a rough layby on the west side of the A838 about three hundred metres north of the Badrallach turn off. Don't go over the stile at the back of the layby, instead heading north along the road to the far side of the stream before immediately turning left onto a rough path. This path heads through dense rhododendrons and has several very boggy sections; in one or two places it is marked by wooden posts. At one of these posts, when inside a 'rhododendron tunnel', the path turns right – many people have tried to carry straight on here which isn't really practical. Soon this tricky section through the trees is left behind and more open moorland is reached. The path improves too, with some good sections linking up the lengths of sandstone slabs that give the easiest walking. There are good views back over towards the woods around Corrie Hallie.
2. There is a wooden shed by the stream on the left, and slightly further on the path comes close to an attractive waterfall. This section of the route is waymarked by cairns. The gradient then begins to ease, and there are views up towards the corries of An Teallach over to the right. The first corrie you can see is Glas Tholl; Toll an Lochain is the more distant corrie further ahead. Enjoy your last views back towards Dundonnell House as the terrain becomes increasingly bleak.
3. At another waterfall, this time with a pool which could be tempting on a hot day, the path crosses the Allt a' Ghlas Thuill which flows down from Glas Tholl. Continue ahead with a short rocky climb, then keep close by the main stream at first. This next section of the route is tricky for navigation (not to mention keeping your feet dry) as the path soon fades out. The best walking is provided by the flat sandstone slabs, and it's a good idea to keep over to the right away from the boggiest, flattest ground near the stream. With any luck you'll find traces of a path which then begins to improve once more on the northern slopes of the glen.
4. The line of quartzite crags on the southeast side of the valley are unbroken for some length, but most eyes will be drawn towards the much higher cliffs of Sail Liath and the pinnacle of the Cadha Ghobhlach ahead. After gaining a fair amount of height the path begins to level off once more below the corrie and comes closer to the stream again. The path fades out again as Toll an Lochain is approached.
5. In spite of the lack of a path, the final approach to the loch is straightforward, and the loch is reached at a low dam of stones where the stream issues from it. The views here are unforgettable; the beautiful sheet of water is encircled by huge crags. The most impressive part of all is the great headwall at the back of the corrie, topped by the pinnacles of Corrag Buidhe and Lord Berkeley's seat. This wall has been nicknamed 'the British Eigerwand' and offers ice-climbing in winter.
6. When you've spent enough time savouring the special atmosphere of this magical place, it's time to begin your return. The most usual and easiest way back is to return by the outward route. Keen hillwalkers can make an alternative return by crossing the dam and descending the other side of the valley; after a short distance it is possible to traverse round to the right, contouring the slopes to escape the glen on its south side to reach Lochan na Brathan. From here the path between Corrie Hallie and Shenavall is easily gained by descending slightly southeastwards. This can then be followed back to Corrie Hallie and the main road.
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