Bid for Glory on the South Glen Shiel Ridge
Munros: Creag nan Dàmh, Sgùrr an Lochain, Sgùrr na Sgìne
Date walked: 13/04/2025
This walk was preceded by 'Blaven South Ridge'
https://www.walkhighlands.co.uk/Forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=129162
I was not so much a man inspired, as a man half restored. Facing my 'Cuillinary'
fears and the successful execution of all my training over the previous three days left me with a feeling of not quite indestructability but forbearance. After the terrain I had just experienced, I fancied this would be like a mild old friend; a return to 'mere' mountain walking. With no technical issues to deal with here, I hoped my sub 3-hour marathon stamina (from 28 years ago) would kick in, and I decided to aim for a grandstand finish to this trip: not only the full ridge, but starting it with Sgurr na Sgine, passing over the (former?) Corbett, Sgurr a Bhac Chaolais, before embarking on the western end of the ridge-proper and getting all the way through to Creag a' Mhaim in the east. A truly magnificent (or was that 'greedy'?) nine Munros into the bag, with a slap-up meal at Cluanie Inn as my just reward, which would then reanimate me enough to trudge the 6 miles down the road back to the car in the dark. The weather seemed feasible if moody: good visibility, but some snow showers and a minus-7 chill from the 30kph wind forecast. Nothing I could not handle.
Finding access points appears to be a recurring weakness with me, and is responsible for 25% of my anxieties. I failed here, but not disastrously so. I saw no sign of the proper start point for the Faochag ridge from the road, and ended up having to access its flank, involving the scaling of a deer fence and mini crag scramble. Then I was on my way, and fully appreciative of being a walker again on proper walking paths which lead one reliably towards the sought after Munro summits. Great stuff. Into the bargain here, was a stirring vantage point on the Forcan Ridge, which did not look too terrifying after the Cuillins. I shall not bypass said ridge when the time comes, oh no. Today's first objective was Sgurr na Sgine, and this had a veritably grand approach along the broad and curving Faochag. Getting off it for the deep bealach to continue north was the only possible pitfall, but I spied a big obvious green chute going from the col between the double summit that I could use. In hindsight, there appeared to be a direct route off the north summit weaving down the sheer crags, but I don't mind that I made no attempt to find it. All this took quite a bit of time and energy, though, and I was beginning to suspect I had started the day too late and might not have enough stamina anyway for my full glory bid.
Successful negotiation of the Bealach an Toiteil presented me with the not-tiny challenge of the Corbett, Sgurr a' Bhac Chaolais. This stony thing yielded itself soon enough, though, but how tired was I now? Also, was this weather going to behave? I'd been warm at times, even donning my sun cap, but then minutes later as the sun went in I'd feel I was getting chilled. I had to be a bit careful up there today, easy-going though this ridge is (by comparison with certain others). The next bealach - Duibh Leac - was less deep, and is the normal access point for the start/end of the South Glen Shiel Ridge. As I ascended from it, to gain the first Munro of Creag nan Damh, the first of the promised snow 'showers' came in. Indeed I saw it coming. This was my first experience of such a thing moving in in this fashion. It was just like the Everest movie, where a storm is seen billowing its way up the valley before enveloping the wretched mountaineers in its viciousness. The clouds seemed to innocently drift out there, but in reality are charging towards one borne on the wind. I was a tad late getting my waterproofs on, but no harm done, this was rather mild stuff compared with Everest! Still, a stirring experience, and I think it was enough to make the one walker I came across this day to mull around in the bealach and contemplate his retreat. I never saw him again, anyway, but I pressed on in the faith the shower would pass or certainly get no worse as indeed is what happened. On top of Creag nan Damh, I considered how much more I should persevere.
By now I was fairly sure time was too short for my lofty ambitions and that, even if I had the energy, I'd have to be stumbling my way down from Creag a' Mhaim by torchlight if I went all the way. Might even be too late for a meal at the Inn as well, which would have been salt in the wounds. It was about 3 p.m after 5 hours of slog on top of na Damh, mere start point of the ridge and my second Munro of the day, and that was a sobering thought. Still, I decided to take things a bite at a time, and that there was no point not doing Sgurr an Lochain, especially as its gradient looked friendly. One of my prepared escape points was just after that, down to its lochain, and there were one or two more if I decided to go further. Objectively, there was little danger, but emotionally was a different matter. I advanced on Sgurr an Lochain in a gentle spell of weather, but on the way down from it the next snow shower came in. This, along with the thought of how long the rest of the ridge might take and my creeping fatigue tipped my decision. I was getting out here. Disappointing, but there was some consolation in finding I'd identified the one very good way down to the lochain (avoiding crags) from the map only, in the absence of it being marked officially as a path. Typically, the weather brightened again once I was down there, but I don't regret my decision too much. If anything, I should have at least have gone on to do Sgurr an Doire Leathain as it was so close, and come down from there or Druim Thollaidh. That would have left me a neater bite for the rest of Glen Sheil in the future. Still, the remainder of the ridge ought to be perfectly doable in one outing.
A damn sting in the tail was had, as almost always it seems. I probably only have myself to blame, as I got lazy with the map after the lochain, deciding to simply follow the burn down to the road. This resulted in a heinous (though safe) trudge through squidgy, bumpy moorscape and no less than two more deer fences to enjoy. I finally emerged up an embankment at a parking place by the road, which gave me an opportunity to be a grateful Munroist by picking up some bottle castaways. Shame on the idle tourist types who throw this stuff down. I felt entitled to a bit of snobbery after my endeavours this week. I had a bonus too, in the form of the Glen Shiel battle site which I had time to nose around. It was quite eerie to envisage the hundred or so casualties of that, 300 years ago, getting blown up or musket-shot on those very slopes where now modern traffic trundles through and fixated mountain walkers do their stuff. Home time! - and a rest of several months for me after a hard-earned haul of 10 Munros, including half of the Cuillins no less. They brought me down a peg or two, but also I did quite well I think, and I like to think I've properly earned my moniker now! (Cuillins=Alps).
PS Something is going on with Sgurr a' Bhac Chaolais, Buidhe Bheinn and Faochag in that one of them and only one of them is classified as a Corbett these days, and I can't figure out which one - I'll come back on this!
https://www.walkhighlands.co.uk/Forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=129162
- The South Glen Shiel Ridge. Looks smooth, easy. As seen from above Bealach Dubh Leac.
I was not so much a man inspired, as a man half restored. Facing my 'Cuillinary'
fears and the successful execution of all my training over the previous three days left me with a feeling of not quite indestructability but forbearance. After the terrain I had just experienced, I fancied this would be like a mild old friend; a return to 'mere' mountain walking. With no technical issues to deal with here, I hoped my sub 3-hour marathon stamina (from 28 years ago) would kick in, and I decided to aim for a grandstand finish to this trip: not only the full ridge, but starting it with Sgurr na Sgine, passing over the (former?) Corbett, Sgurr a Bhac Chaolais, before embarking on the western end of the ridge-proper and getting all the way through to Creag a' Mhaim in the east. A truly magnificent (or was that 'greedy'?) nine Munros into the bag, with a slap-up meal at Cluanie Inn as my just reward, which would then reanimate me enough to trudge the 6 miles down the road back to the car in the dark. The weather seemed feasible if moody: good visibility, but some snow showers and a minus-7 chill from the 30kph wind forecast. Nothing I could not handle. - First this, and somehow missed the start of the path, but thereafter well done.
- Faochag up to the right. Love deer fences.
- This is a proper access point (really).
- Getting higher on Faochag, a fine little slog.
- Behold the Forcan Ridge (for another day).
Finding access points appears to be a recurring weakness with me, and is responsible for 25% of my anxieties. I failed here, but not disastrously so. I saw no sign of the proper start point for the Faochag ridge from the road, and ended up having to access its flank, involving the scaling of a deer fence and mini crag scramble. Then I was on my way, and fully appreciative of being a walker again on proper walking paths which lead one reliably towards the sought after Munro summits. Great stuff. Into the bargain here, was a stirring vantage point on the Forcan Ridge, which did not look too terrifying after the Cuillins. I shall not bypass said ridge when the time comes, oh no. Today's first objective was Sgurr na Sgine, and this had a veritably grand approach along the broad and curving Faochag. Getting off it for the deep bealach to continue north was the only possible pitfall, but I spied a big obvious green chute going from the col between the double summit that I could use. In hindsight, there appeared to be a direct route off the north summit weaving down the sheer crags, but I don't mind that I made no attempt to find it. All this took quite a bit of time and energy, though, and I was beginning to suspect I had started the day too late and might not have enough stamina anyway for my full glory bid.
- Approach to Sgurr na Sgine from Faochag.
- South Top of Sguff na Sgine is reached, the Glen Shiel ridge poking up beyond it (well beyond it)..
- On the summit proper, the Corbett Sgurr a' Bhac Chaolais between me and the Glen Shiel ridge.
- On Creag a' Bhac Chaolais, looking back on the section I've done.
- Ridge proper finally beckons after 5 hours. So, how much time and energy do I have to do this?
Successful negotiation of the Bealach an Toiteil presented me with the not-tiny challenge of the Corbett, Sgurr a' Bhac Chaolais. This stony thing yielded itself soon enough, though, but how tired was I now? Also, was this weather going to behave? I'd been warm at times, even donning my sun cap, but then minutes later as the sun went in I'd feel I was getting chilled. I had to be a bit careful up there today, easy-going though this ridge is (by comparison with certain others). The next bealach - Duibh Leac - was less deep, and is the normal access point for the start/end of the South Glen Shiel Ridge. As I ascended from it, to gain the first Munro of Creag nan Damh, the first of the promised snow 'showers' came in. Indeed I saw it coming. This was my first experience of such a thing moving in in this fashion. It was just like the Everest movie, where a storm is seen billowing its way up the valley before enveloping the wretched mountaineers in its viciousness. The clouds seemed to innocently drift out there, but in reality are charging towards one borne on the wind. I was a tad late getting my waterproofs on, but no harm done, this was rather mild stuff compared with Everest! Still, a stirring experience, and I think it was enough to make the one walker I came across this day to mull around in the bealach and contemplate his retreat. I never saw him again, anyway, but I pressed on in the faith the shower would pass or certainly get no worse as indeed is what happened. On top of Creag nan Damh, I considered how much more I should persevere.
- The first snow showers kicks in. Invigorating.
- Creag nan Damh, first Munro of the ridge (second of the day). Progress; the pointy Sgurr an Lochain next.
- Suspense over what the weather will do.
- Into the Gods at Sgurr an Lochain.
By now I was fairly sure time was too short for my lofty ambitions and that, even if I had the energy, I'd have to be stumbling my way down from Creag a' Mhaim by torchlight if I went all the way. Might even be too late for a meal at the Inn as well, which would have been salt in the wounds. It was about 3 p.m after 5 hours of slog on top of na Damh, mere start point of the ridge and my second Munro of the day, and that was a sobering thought. Still, I decided to take things a bite at a time, and that there was no point not doing Sgurr an Lochain, especially as its gradient looked friendly. One of my prepared escape points was just after that, down to its lochain, and there were one or two more if I decided to go further. Objectively, there was little danger, but emotionally was a different matter. I advanced on Sgurr an Lochain in a gentle spell of weather, but on the way down from it the next snow shower came in. This, along with the thought of how long the rest of the ridge might take and my creeping fatigue tipped my decision. I was getting out here. Disappointing, but there was some consolation in finding I'd identified the one very good way down to the lochain (avoiding crags) from the map only, in the absence of it being marked officially as a path. Typically, the weather brightened again once I was down there, but I don't regret my decision too much. If anything, I should have at least have gone on to do Sgurr an Doire Leathain as it was so close, and come down from there or Druim Thollaidh. That would have left me a neater bite for the rest of Glen Sheil in the future. Still, the remainder of the ridge ought to be perfectly doable in one outing.
A damn sting in the tail was had, as almost always it seems. I probably only have myself to blame, as I got lazy with the map after the lochain, deciding to simply follow the burn down to the road. This resulted in a heinous (though safe) trudge through squidgy, bumpy moorscape and no less than two more deer fences to enjoy. I finally emerged up an embankment at a parking place by the road, which gave me an opportunity to be a grateful Munroist by picking up some bottle castaways. Shame on the idle tourist types who throw this stuff down. I felt entitled to a bit of snobbery after my endeavours this week. I had a bonus too, in the form of the Glen Shiel battle site which I had time to nose around. It was quite eerie to envisage the hundred or so casualties of that, 300 years ago, getting blown up or musket-shot on those very slopes where now modern traffic trundles through and fixated mountain walkers do their stuff. Home time! - and a rest of several months for me after a hard-earned haul of 10 Munros, including half of the Cuillins no less. They brought me down a peg or two, but also I did quite well I think, and I like to think I've properly earned my moniker now! (Cuillins=Alps).
- Great hopes differed from the result.
- On Sgurr an Lochain. That ridge goes on...
- ... but I don't. The lochain itself is my escape point. Too late. Too far. Too other things.
PS Something is going on with Sgurr a' Bhac Chaolais, Buidhe Bheinn and Faochag in that one of them and only one of them is classified as a Corbett these days, and I can't figure out which one - I'll come back on this!
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The English Alpinist
- Location: Lancashire England.
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