I need some advice on what to do

[fauzool]

Im an avid rock climber and hiker, but I have never really scrambled before always have followed paths when hiking. As far as rock climbing goes Ive climb outside and inside for 4 years.

Im traveling to Scotland for 8 days and want to go on some amazing hikes for the thrill, and challenge and I'm wanting to get ideas. I've never mountaineered before, but I could learn I have ropes and such. Where is a good starting point to get experience with this? I am not wanting to pay for a guide and I will be taking along a friend.
A goal of mine is to hike MT Kilimanjaro

[Mal Grey]

Hi

What time of year are you planning on doing this?

Glencoe and Fort William area would be a good choice with plenty of scrambles of different difficulties in the area, so you can start with easier ones and then move onto routes like the Aonach Eagach, Curved Ridge, Ledge Route.

What's your navigation like? Any Scottish hills will need the ability to be able to navigate in misty conditions with map and compass if (when!) the weather turns. This is probably more important than your scrambling ability.

There are books like Classic Mountain Scrambles, Scotland's Mountain Ridges and Highland Scrambles (South or North) which will give you hundreds of routes to plan for.

[dav2930]

It's difficult to advise without knowing a bit more about your past experience and where you're based (in the UK?). Does your hiking experience include hill walking, using map and compass in poor visibility etc.? What sort of rock climbs have you done in the 4 years you've been climbing? If you've done much at all outside, then the technical skills you've acquired will stand you in very good stead for more "mountaineering" style scrambling routes like Aonach Eagach. Indeed, I wouldn't have thought you'd need to be using a rope on a route like that, in summer at least: most hill walkers don't, even without any climbing experience. Maybe you're thinking more in terms of winter mountaineering? If so, enrolling on a winter skills course at Glenmore Lodge is probably the best bet.

Otherwise, you could think about routes like Tower Ridge on Ben Nevis, which is a bit more technically challenging than a simple scramble like Aoanach Eagach but still easy in climbing terms. Big routes like this are potentially serious due to their length, altitude and the possibility of bad weather; so choosing a good day of settled weather is very important. If you can lead at VDiff or above, and have experience of multi-pitch climbs, then I would suggest something like Agag's Groove on Buachaille Etive Mor. It's reasonably quick to access, faces south so gets the sun and is quick drying after rain, and has nice, clean rock - but it is very much a mountain route and you can easily continue up the Crowberry Ridge to the summit. However, your actual experience may be such that these suggestions are entirely misplaced; as I say, without knowing more about your track record it's difficult to advise.

As for Kilimanjaro, you're much better off signing up with a British operator and being part of a guided group. The main consideration is allowing enough time to acclimatize properly (at least 5 days).

[fauzool]

I’m traveling from the United States. I will be going last week of March for a week. I want to make this first time in Scotland memorable and I must do a few popular scrambled or two before I leave. I don’t particularly have navigation experience. I planned on bringing GPS with the trails mapped out on it. I climb regularly 5.11b and v5 boulders and only local climbing within my area that I have done. More on my background I’m a runner and trail runner and do Spartan races. I have not lead climbed. Have not done mountaineering.
I was really wanting to do CMD Arete. It looks doable to me.
I’m also definitely open to suggestions for routes. I don’t want anything super hard, but I want a challenge and adventure/thrill. Want to also have great views as I’m a photographer too.

[NickyRannoch]

You will need to factor in that you can expect the higher hills, especially Ben Nevis, to be in full winter conditions at the end of March. Crampons, ice axe and the ability to use them are a prerequisite for even the most benign hills in these conditions. You will be able to check out the SAIS avalanche forecast each day but a basic idea of ground to avoid in avalanche season is useful too.

And before the clocks go forward darkness will be before 7pm.

[Mal Grey]

Coming in March is not a good time for scrambling. It will most likely be winter climbing instead, with a need for ice axes, crampons and a very good ability to navigate. If scrambling is your main motivation, leave it until at least mid-May. By May, CMD ought to be OK in most years. In March it will almost definitely be covered in ice and snow and therefore much more serious.

However, March can be a wonderful time in Scotland, but it is winter and you need different skills. Your rock climbing ability will then be irrelevant. You could have a wonderful hillwalking trip, but would be wise to book onto a skills course if you've no previous experience of snow and ice hillwalking.

Do not just rely on GPS tracks on the Scottish hills. Fine to use them as part of your navigation tools, but ALWAYS have a back up of a paper map and the ability to navigate with it alone.

[fauzool]

I can’t change my dates unfortunately. Thank you I didn’t realize snow would still be on the mountain. As a first time going would you recommend it? I want to have a great experience in Scotland and see some amazing views. I was reading about it during snow and definitely have to follow the grid bearings to be safest and which I can learn how to properly navigate and use the tools but If not Ben Nevis. What else could I do that would be easier. and to get my feet wet into mountaineering in the snow?

[davekeiller]

I wouldn't recommend Ben Nevis in March if you've got no winter experience.
You really need to learn how to use ice axe and crampons, and how to assess avalanche risk before it's safe to go out solo in winter conditions.
You'd be safer somewhere further south, like the Lake District in England or Snowdonia in Wales, where you're less likely to encounter winter conditions.
North ridge of Tryfan, Bristly ridge and Snowdon via Crib Goch are all classic Snowdonia scrambles.
In the Lake District, Helvellyn via striding edge or Blencathra via sharp edge.

[simon-b]

Hi fauzool. Obviously nobody has an unlimited budget and you say you don't want to pay for a guide, so I understand and sympathise. But if you can stretch to it, Dav's suggestion of a winter skills course is a good idea in Scotland at that time of year. A good course leader should find the right kind of challenges for you, given your rock climbing and hiking experience, balanced against the fact you haven't winter mountaineered before. Other than that, if you're not committed yet to a venue, Dave k's suggestion of British mountains further south could be a good option.

[dav2930]

I'm afraid I can only echo the comments above. It's unfortunate that the time of your proposed visit really isn't likely to be suitable for what you want to do. Having said that, the CMD Arete of Ben Nevis in winter conditions is not difficult; I'm sure you'd have no problem with it given a bit of practice using crampons and ice axe. But it is mountaineering, which you say you haven't done before. As Mal says, your rock climbing ability, which is considerable at least on the blunt end of the rope, would be irrelevant. What's required is a basic level of mountain knowledge and skills especially with respect to winter conditions. And I have to agree completely with Mal that, of these basic skills, navigation is far and away the most important. The summit area of Ben Nevis in a whiteout is a very dangerous place and there have been many fatalities due to navigational errors (people wandering onto unseen cornices which then collapse under their weight). A GPS is not a substitute for a map and compass and the ability to use them, but the quickest and most reliable way of establishing your location on the map. Without knowing exactly where you are on the map, taking a compass bearing may be a waste of time at best and fatally misleading at worst. But once you've established your location, then you need to take an accurate compass bearing and follow it carefully. Many maps and guidebooks covering Ben Nevis will give you the bearings you need to follow from the summit to reach the easiest route down. You would also, of course, need to be prepared for some very cold and nasty weather, including the possibility of ferocious blizzards. So you'd need to think carefully about clothing - baselayers, midlayers, insulating jacket, waterproofs, hats, gloves, crampon-compatible boots, and so on.

Hope you enjoy your visit, whatever you decide to do in the end. All the best.

[Sunset tripper]

I was on the CMD arete at the end of May this year. Although the arete was clear, on the summit of Ben Nevis the snow was around 4 feet deep. It will be a different proposition in March.
CMD arete and the Ben - May 2021

All the best.

[NickyRannoch]

If you don't have money for a guide I don't think you are going to have money for ice axe, b2 boots, crampons, waterproof and thermal gear necessary for such an expedition.

I would have a look at one or two day winter skills courses.

If you absolutely don't want to do that I would say your best bet is looking at going to Assynt and Coigach. Although not guaranteed, the west coast sea air and lower hills give the best chance of snow free days and the scenery is amazing.

Even low level walks would be good for photography.

Looking back at my walk diary I think the last time I was on snow free summits in March was 2011 but I don't think 2019 was too bad. So it's not impossible.