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Climbing on Skye

Climbing on Skye


Postby Turin » Wed Feb 29, 2012 9:39 am

Hi all,
I know that this is a hiking-focused forum. So please take my apologies for posting a climbing question. But -
I am in desperate search for a decent forum on rock climbing on Skye.
We plan to spent there a few weeks on Skye in August to to some hiking and to try out some nice multiple pitch climbs.
The problem with this is, that we have some experience with multiple rope pitches in the bolted French region and also some experience in trad climbing. Nevertheless our experience on traditional multiple pitch climbs are limited.
Is there anybody out here to be able to give some advice on possible routes or give a hint where I can ask somebody? The information given in the climbing guide "Skye the Cuillin" by the SMC are quite... truncated.

Thanks for any help in that.

Kind Regards,
Ruediger
Germany
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Re: Climbing on Skye

Postby Caberfeidh » Wed Feb 29, 2012 10:56 am

Turin wrote:Hi all,
I know that this is a hiking-focused forum. So please take my apologies for posting a climbing question. But -
I am in desperate search for a decent forum on rock climbing on Skye.
We plan to spent there a few weeks on Skye in August to to some hiking and to try out some nice multiple pitch climbs.
The problem with this is, that we have some experience with multiple rope pitches in the bolted French region and also some experience in trad climbing. Nevertheless our experience on traditional multiple pitch climbs are limited.
Is there anybody out here to be able to give some advice on possible routes or give a hint where I can ask somebody? The information given in the climbing guide "Skye the Cuillin" by the SMC are quite... truncated.
Thanks for any help in that.
Kind Regards,
Ruediger
Germany


The tradition here is for natural rock climbing - NO BOLTS!!! You would be better to google search for rock climbing guides on Skye for someone to go with you. The guide books are deliberately lacking in information to avoid luring unsuitable/ inexperienced people. If you think it may be too much for you then do not try it.
Sgurr Alasdair Feb 09 010.JPG

Snowy Slopes December 2010.JPG

Storr signage.JPG
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Re: Climbing on Skye

Postby Turin » Wed Feb 29, 2012 11:35 am

Hi,
thanks for the quick reply.
The thing is, that we do have experience in traditional climbing with no bolts and know how to place gear. But the route descriptions we currently have are quite truncated and I would like to discuss possible routes.
For us possible would be "difficult" to VD (bolted we make routes up to E1 (or french 5c+/6a).
Our interest would lie in a discussion about routes with "easy to find lines" as this is most challenging for us in longer easier routes without bolts).
In our guide ("The Cuillin" written by the MSC) are only quite rough descriptions with limited/rare topo-information about the single pitches of a longer route.

We are well aware of the risks coming along with traditional climbing (and are much in favour of this) but would like to start with easier routes (as mentioned D/VD should be feasible as a start).
But for us proper planning is key for a safe and successful climb. That's why we start with this already now for a trip in August.
BTW this is our second trip to Skye, on the first trip we did some hillwalking and moderate scrambling (so we know the region a bit).
Thanks for sharing these wonderful pictures - please also see some from our trip.
Attachments
Panorama_groß.jpg
Panorama from Bruach na Frithe
img_3972.jpg
Stone Shoot Sgurr Alasdair
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Re: Climbing on Skye

Postby Kevin29035 » Wed Feb 29, 2012 11:37 am

Hi there, no worries about posting a climbing question, quite a few here climb too! I'd suggest UKClimbing.com but that bunch will probably end up on a bolts/no bolts debate without actually answering the question :lol: Caberfeidh is bang on although that last image loks a little.... :shock: Where is that by the way, looks more like crumbly Trotternish stone?
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Re: Climbing on Skye

Postby Caberfeidh » Wed Feb 29, 2012 11:47 am

Tis behind ye old man of Storr.
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Re: Climbing on Skye

Postby Turin » Wed Feb 29, 2012 11:58 am

As indicated in the caption this is from the stone shoot of Sgurr Alasdair down on the Brittle Bay and Loch Coire Lagan
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img_3970.jpg
View back to the shoot.
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Re: Climbing on Skye

Postby foggieclimber » Wed Feb 29, 2012 3:53 pm

Do you have the revised version of the SMC Cuillin Guide that come out near the end of 2011?
It has improved topos over the previous version.

If you want to stick to Diff/Vdiff another book option may be the SMC Skye Scrambles book.
Lower-grade rock climbs overlap with higher-grade scrambles.

Also worth a look is the book, Classic Rock - covers whole UK not just Skye.

Two easier classic routes worth considering are
- Dubh Ridge from Loch Coruisk
- Pinnacle Ridge of Sgurr nan Gillean

Big mountaineering challenge is a Ridge Traverse.

Here's a report from Pinnacle Ridge
http://www.walkhighlands.co.uk/Forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=2064
(The first photo in my report was used for the topo of Sgurr nan Gillean in the revised SMC The Cuillin book)
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Re: Climbing on Skye

Postby Turin » Wed Feb 29, 2012 4:14 pm

Hi,
thanks for the hint. I will have a look at the Dubh Ridge and the Pinacle Ridge.
(I would definitely not go for the traverse as I would need more training and preparation for this as I have at the moment. But perhaps one day... :))

Indeed I do have the revised book and there are some nice routes described. But the full amount of possibilities is just overwhelming.
We thought of starting in Glen Sligachan on 2-3 rope pitches, also to personally evaluate the rating compared to other climbing regions in Europe. We did some S/VS climbs two years ago in Lochaber, but with a guide. Since then we had some practice. So we just want to see where we stand before we start some 300m walls. ;)

At the moment we favour Collies climb up to Sg. Alasdair (Diff), but have no idea if its a nice route - or if we should go to An Caisteal. I think we are just a bit overwhelmed by possibilities. But a big part of enjoying a holiday is preparing for it, isn't it?
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Re: Climbing on Skye

Postby foggieclimber » Wed Feb 29, 2012 4:25 pm

Turin wrote:Hi,
thanks for the hint. I will have a look at the Dubh Ridge and the Pinacle Ridge.
(I would definitely not go for the traverse as I would need more training and preparation for this as I have at the moment. But perhaps one day... :))

Indeed I do have the revised book and there are some nice routes described. But the full amount of possibilities is just overwhelming.
We thought of starting in Glen Sligachan on 2-3 rope pitches, also to personally evaluate the rating compared to other climbing regions in Europe. We did some S/VS climbs two years ago in Lochaber, but with a guide. Since then we had some practice. So we just want to see where we stand before we start some 300m walls. ;)

At the moment we favour Collies climb up to Sg. Alasdair (Diff), but have no idea if its a nice route - or if we should go to An Caisteal. I think we are just a bit overwhelmed by possibilities. But a big part of enjoying a holiday is preparing for it, isn't it?


The more stars the better the route.
Three stars means a pretty good route, four stars means one of the best routes in its grade.
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Re: Climbing on Skye

Postby jmarkb » Wed Feb 29, 2012 4:31 pm

I'm afraid you are not going to find more detailed route descriptions or topos than in the SMC guide: route finding is all part of the challenge of long mountaineering style routes! As foggieclimber says, the star ratings in the SMC guides are a useful indicator of quality: if you stick to routes with 2 or more stars you are unlikely to be disappointed.

Sron na Ciche is probably the most popular crag, with some good easy routes. The Clach Glas - Blaven traverse is also excellent, though the route-finding is quite tricky in places.
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Re: Climbing on Skye

Postby Turin » Wed Feb 29, 2012 4:38 pm

Wow, found the pic. Very nice report. Definitely on our list as it seems very impressive wrt the view and the route itself.
Thanks.
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Re: Climbing on Skye

Postby Johnny Corbett » Wed Feb 29, 2012 4:45 pm

I know sod all about climbing but that path behind the you are advised to go no further sign looks very well worn :D
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Re: Climbing on Skye

Postby Caberfeidh » Wed Feb 29, 2012 6:14 pm

Johnny Corbett wrote:I know sod all about climbing but that path behind the you are advised to go no further sign looks very well worn :D

Yesh, I look upon such signs and instructions as rules for the ignorant but mere guidelines for the wise. It is behind the Old Man of Storr, to stop tourists getting killed to death by rockfall/ ice avalanches/ rampant sheep.
Storr Tourist Hazard.JPG
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Re: Climbing on Skye

Postby jmarkb » Wed Feb 29, 2012 6:25 pm

Caberfeidh wrote:I look upon such signs and instructions as rules for the ignorant but mere guidelines for the wise.


One would be very wise not to attempt rock climbing on the main cliffs of the Storr: the rock is truly awful :-o
(There are a few, hard, winter routes, which rely on freezing temps to hold the crag together long enough while you climb....). I ignored the signs when I was up there for a walk: however, part of the path is well buried under the debris from a very large rockfall....
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Re: Climbing on Skye

Postby Milesy » Wed Feb 29, 2012 11:27 pm

Turin wrote:Hi,
thanks for the hint. I will have a look at the Dubh Ridge and the Pinacle Ridge.


I also recommend both.

Highly recommended is arrow route

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=7739

Also cioch west.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=7736

Join ukclimbing for more climbing specific chat. Just don't mention bolts and you will be fine :D
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