by MarcChrys » Sun Aug 14, 2022 5:36 am
I think I was the only person who ventured to the West Summit yesterday...everyone else (lots of people with young children and dogs) went up to the East Summit then back down the same way. I had done lot of video watching and photo studying of the tricky section and was quite anxious. However, I'd made my mind up I was going to give it a good go. My honest verdict is that it's surprisingly straightforward on good frictiony rock with good holds for feet and hands...if you stay calm and focused, start directly beneath the pillar and move diagonally left (as in the photo marked in green on another post), there are good holds - and, even if you fell off or slipped, you'd just land back at the notch. Reversing was pretty much the same line as the descent, and was again quite well held. I wanted to also compare the chimney pitch lower down on the left..this starts out a bit more exposed, but once in the chimney you are very safe and secure. I didn't fancy going back down it..for some reason it looks quite intimidating looking down, so I repeated the stepped ledges descent. It was a dry sunny windless day, so no issues with wet rock or gusts. On a wet or windy day I might prefer to use the chimney variation. I would add that in my day I have been a rock climber (I'm 63) and would rate the ascent as perhaps just about Difficult (in trainers rather than with rock boots and chalk! Which would make it a Moderate). I think people who have some climbing experience or enjoy scrambling will have no issue (in good conditions). Hillwalkers with exposure issues rightfully may decline the challenge. But definitely start straight up and then diagonally leftwards to good holds in flakes and cracks - no need to climb all the way up the front face OR start on right over rather exposed gully (as I've seen in one video). My general impression was that the really scary sections on Stac Pollaidh are on the main crest, there were many variation paths where a slip or misstep could be very dangerous! Amazing day out. Have had this mountain on my dream list for 40 years. Just a shame so many people bagging the East Summmit seem to neglect the main ridge totally..even if they didn't go to the West Summit, the rock scenery and views on the ridge are magnificent.